Loctite Do's and Don'ts for Snipers and Cockers

[Booska]

I've seen a lot of Loctite nightmares on MCB and BookFace these past few weeks. I wanted to start a thread for some discussion around this.

Imagine you have a pile of parts sitting in front of you for a sniper build. NOTHING is assembled.

1. Which parts are you using Loctite on? Blue Loctite? Anything you would actually want red Loctite on (probably a big no)?
2. What parts are you absolutely making sure you DON'T use Loctite on?

[Booska]

I know CCM would Loctite their pump arms to the pump plates (maybe it was even red? I've had to deal with this in the past). I was thinking of using blue loctite for this when I go to assemble. Red Loctite seems overkill for the pump arm <-> pump plate threads.

[mueller]

is there an application where red loctite isnt overkill? honest question

[Booska]

I don't think so lol I mainly brought it up because it's usually the cause of the Loctite nightmares that people encounter.

Good rule of thumb seems to be: toss red Loctite in the trash.

[Sottyman]

From my personal experience with cockers where I DO use loctite:

-Ram. Some rams don't have a sealing oring for the barrel/housing so a little bit of low strength (blue) would go on the threaded base then the barrel/housing would thread on.

-LPR. I use a little blue for sealing up the threads going into the front block.

-3 way. A little blue on the barbs.

-Macroline fittings. Again, maybe a little blue assuming I'm reusing one and not a fresh one that has factory-applied sealant.


I absolutely WON'T loctite:

PRETTY MUCH EVERYTHING NOT LISTED ABOVE lol. Most things are fine with proper torque or have some sort of sealing oring.

[$L!mBo]

the diesel truck industrial strength yellow on everything especially frame to body screws and barrel threads.

my logic is "if shocktech is using green on everything, yellow will be even BETTER" since the yellow Hulk was stronger than the green Hulk in the comics
whole marker is effectively welded into one solid unit for maximum durability

when everyone else's flimsy, "ikea" blasters are jingling and jangling around, screws falling out and losing their barrels left and right, ill be digging foxholes and prying up manhole covers with my ROCK SOLiD MEGA MARKER

spring a leak? put some MORE YELLO ON iT

chip in the anno? PUHSUM YELLO OHNNiT

thirsty in the middle of a game? AHHH GAHT SOEM YELLO IN MY PAWCKET

[Trbo323]

the diesel truck industrial strength yellow on everything especially frame to body screws and barrel threads.

Pansy. Real men use JB weld

In all seriousness, this is all blue

Feedneck threads/screw that holds to the body
Pump arm, both sides to make sure it doesn't back out and screw up the spacing
Frame to body screws
ASA Mount screws (ever had one come loose mid day? It's infuriating)

Most of the air seal threads I use Teflon tape but I would use blue as well.

Hammer lug, to make sure it doesn't move and screw up the timing
Trigger set screws, ever had one of those bastards fall out mid game? Not fun

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[Booska]

This is generally what I've done as well. I saw a PBNation thread with someone saying they used Loctite on the valve jam nut. Can't say I've ever had one of those come loose.

[Psycho91]

I was gonna use blue locktite on my build but seeing as it's been highly recommended I'm just gonna vibratite everything

Air fittings, barbs, and ram bases will need blue locktite though

[SignOfZeta]

Nothing should need red, only blue.

Going further on this though…please limit the quantity of even blue Loctite. Please do not litterally DIP the screw into Loctite, of any color. When a small enough screw is glued in with enough old Loctite it may as well have been red because the fight it will put up coming out will possibly round off the head since it’s a paintball gun and for some reason that requires socket headed screws everywhere.

[Toestr]

For paintball purposes only use red if it's something you're sure you'll be ok with if it never came apart again. I used some on an ANS pre2k volumizer where the buttplug end came unthreaded from the threaded banjo nipple. That is the only time I've used red for paintball. I also used it to put together a set of fireplace tools because the heads and handles kept unscrewing during use.

[Booska]

Yeah I've only used red on a piece of furniture that was being a pain in the ass. I gotta keep it separate from the blue Loctite in my toolbox

[Trbo323]

For paintball purposes only use red if it's something you're sure you'll be ok with if it never came apart again. I used some on an ANS pre2k volumizer where the buttplug end came unthreaded from the threaded banjo nipple. That is the only time I've used red for paintball. I also used it to put together a set of fireplace tools because the heads and handles kept unscrewing during use.

Yeah kind of the same situation here. I've only used red once. It's on my vanguard Creed, someone had been using the wrong size Allen on the ram back cap and stripped it all out. It's even splash anno matched so there's exactly a 0% chance of finding a new one so I drilled the center out, threaded and used red loc tite to put a set screw in

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[docfire]

General Loctite RED is not used in Paintball as most auto part store version are high temp versions. Now in some cases where parts need to be more permanent then follow manufacture recommendations (AKA merlin banjo bolt center set screw for example.)

I find that if a properly setup cocker will survive much longer is its locked down. Now with that said, if your are a person who changes things all the time (tinker) using purple and blue will be good.

I use these thread lockers and i find that the Vibra-tite brand is reasonable in cost compared to Henkel Loctite.

Vibra-tite:
111 low strength (Purple) +300F melting compares with Loctite 222 +300F
122 medium oil restive (Blue) +300F melting compares will Loctite 243 +360-490F
541 Hard (Green) +300F melting compares with Loctite 680 +360-490F

Vibra-tite primer for Purple, Blue and Green use Vibra-Tite 611 Excel Primer N or 612 Excel Primer T


Purple low strength

• Air fittings all
• Small screws like 3way timing rod set screws
• 3way to front block
• On/off screws into frame
• Frame glide screws

Blue Medium

• Pump arms to backblock
• Valve jam nut and set screw
• Ram to frontblock
• good fitting Ram shaft to pump arms (better luck with green)
• cocking rod knob
• Hammer lug (when its loose) Prefer modifying the hammer for a nylon tension screw

Green Retaining

• Pump arm to ram shaft
• On small air fitting like 3way barbs make sure not to thread lock the air hole shut.......
• rebuildable ball detents (the SS part to the body) use primer also
• ST feednecks
• ST VASA to front block
• Slip fit parts not need for maintenance disassemble

Note:

• Clean parts to be threadlocked!!!!!! no oil
• E-cocker more green on pump arm parts and ram mount
• Do not buy Henkel Loctite brand off of amazon due to many fakes being sold, buy from MSC or other reputable co. I have got fake Locktite from amazon, but for Vibra-tite has been good as they have a amazon store.
• Using thread locker primers to quickly setup is great (see mfg website for the right primer to thread locker)

Vibra-tite comparison chart to Henkel Loctite link original.pdf

[Booska]

Funny enough, this post was inspired by a comment you made about Loctite in one of your videos I was watching 🙂

Thanks for the info and hopefully it will be useful for others in the future too.

Cheers!

[latches109]

try a Blue locktite stick. You’ll thank me later. It will hold pressure after 5-10min. Heck I’ve even put it on and aired up right after with success. The liquid never could do that.

[Psycho91]

IV never had a problem getting blue locktite to seal on macro fittings, learned it from Mike when tech PB was still a thing

[$L!mBo]

i use this trick when screwing in my hpa
tanks. that way, i never have to worry about em comin loose mid-game