Bolt spec

[XEMON]

Hello all,

I have a few bolt questions ...
(All assuming full length standard body)

Fist of all, what's the difference between pre-2K and 2K bolt, if any?

I don't have a full body cocker not a bolt to look at, anyone got a print/drawing/CAD they're willing to share?

Thanks MCB
X

[Magmoormaster]

It really just stems from the back block itself. The distance from the body to the bolt pin hole on pre-2k back blocks is larger than on 2k+, ergo pre-2k bolts themselves are longer than 2k+ bolts. It's nota huge difference, but without swapping the back block as well, the 2 are not interchangeable.

[XEMON]

So the only difference is the distance between the bolt pin and the body? howhow much are talking about?

I may need to get a bolt to be able to template from ...

[Magmoormaster]

I'm out of town for the holidays so I can't measure but off the top of my head it's something like 1/8, maybe 1/4 inch.

[XEMON]

Thanks, that's way too much to have a big transfer port and make a "universal" bolt ...

[Super69ur]

Well. I can’t post pictures. So you’ll have to do
some googling.

Look at the bolt pin position compared to where the back of the bottom tube is. The bottom tube is the same on all cockers that aren’t turtled. (IE: most full-block cockers)

examples of modern cockers with all 3 bolt lengths:

pre2k - Mark Davis MK5

2k+ - Nummech Pyrococker

EVO - Twister F-series Autococker

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+ More Options

[Cunha]

If you made a universal bolt it would just have two pin holes and be really long out the back on a 2k.

and then make another further forward pin hole for evolution length which has become standard Reverse P block length.

but no one wants extra bolt hanging off

[Super69ur]

I don’t know if you could do that. The edges of the 1/4” hole would end up awful close to eachother, making them weak, and the detent would
need to be movable.

[Jordan]

I don’t know if you could do that. The edges of the 1/4” hole would end up awful close to eachother, making them weak, and the detent would
need to be movable.

If you used a venturi design you could stagger the holes 180° from each other. That might take care of any potential weak areas.

[XEMON]

What about a threaded rod between the font of the bolt and the back part with the hole for the pin?
you adjust it to exactly the length you need for your marker ...

[Jordan]

What about a threaded rod between the font of the bolt and the back part with the hole for the pin?
you adjust it to exactly the length you need for your marker ...

Maybe two separate tips that line up properly with the valve port depending on 2k or pre2k spec? Use a bolt down the center, through the front of the bolt... probably need an open face setup.