I just traded a marker for a used HK Army Ripper Vcom, almost identical to this one. I like it a lot the only issue that i have and this may be addressed with using another barrel is the sound signature. Is there anything that bob long fans would recommend i change out, replace or otherwise change on this marker? Will the change of barrels lower the sound signature and is there any barrel that i should look for that works better or just use my favorite cocker threaded barrel?
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Maybe a Dye UL barrel. What are the reg pressures set at? The VIS engine shouldn't be too loud unless it's not tuned properly.
Does it sound like this?
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It has a slight bit more crack, rather then the pop that marker is making, so I will go ahead and test the pressures to see where they are at. When i was trying it out my velocity was high as in 300-315. When i lowered FPS via the HPR to 270 it still had more of a crack then a pop, it was not terrible and that is why i did not think tuning just barrel.
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I had a Bob Long Vcom. I never put the poppit engine in mine. It was an amazing marker. Never leaked and never had to rebuild it from factory seals. Use a good amount of dow 55 lube IIRC. Be super careful with the connectors for the screen. Hope your's is a good one. I know hk army ain't known for quality in their soft goods departmemt. .
What bore id is your barrel back? I ran mine with the stock vcom barrel and it was very quite. Though I prefered to run it wit my 8in Check It barrel. Maybe get a 32 Degrees Whisper barrel?
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I have found with mine that the stock barrel was the best. Mine came in with pressures all out of whack from the previous owner and it was a canon. I adjusted that and it's better now. But it is still louder than other BL's I have owned.
I have an issue with it occasionally breaking balls in the breach and I am trying to figure that out. Otherwise, it works like it should. They got a bad rap, but it's not as bad as other BL owners make it seem. This is the second one that I've had and the first one worked fine. My son bought it used and we sent it to some guy (I wish I could remember how to contact him) that tuned it up and had it working great, Same thing with that one though, the previous owner had it all out of spec pressure-wise and it didn't work like it should. Once that was fixed it shot great. I got mine for $350 and it was like brand new, so if it becomes a wall hanger, it at least is a nice looking one!-------------
Markers: Ripper Emek | A-Team LV2 | Hormesis LV2 | Skulls Emek
Gear: CTRL Hoppers | IR2 Hoppers | HK Alpha Air tanks w/Powerhouse Regs | Carbon IC Barrels
Clothes: Carbon Zero and multiple Proflex Masks | Carbon SC base layer | Jersey Clinics Jerseys | CK Hefe 2.5 Bandana Pants | Shulook Hiking Shoes
Home Field: Hoppers, Savannah GA​
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Flawless Airworks (Jacob Salas) in Texas can work on them. I know he's slowing down right now due to a new job, but he definitely is worth waiting if you have to. He's great at tuning BL and the HK guns. I don't remember the other dude at all. I have been trying to find the Insta post he did with it but it's long gone. Dave something. I can't even remember where he was located. But Jacob is the man now for most BL/HK stuff. I've even sent him a few PE guns to work on.
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I got mine off ebay used and they came with this to set the engines up correctly. I don't know what is a good price for them. .
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The naming for this series of guns has gotten so muddled, especially with all the paintball knowledge leaving forums and dumping into the cesspool of Facebook.
That said, there are 3 different engines for Victory's:
1. Supercharged (oldest engine, inline poppet)
2. VCOM (spool engine)
3. VIS (newer inline poppet)
And then a bunch of body types:
1. V1 (has one long window on each side of the body, short HPR body, LED board)
2. V2 (also called "T-Rex", two smaller windows on each side, originally had the short HPR and LED board but was reproduced a few times and later got a long HPR and OLED)
3. Ripper (distinctive ribs on each side, also produced with different HPRs and boards over time)
4. VIS body (no windows)
5. VCOM body (two big windows that wrap over the top of the body)
To add to the confusion, the HK guns have different feedneck mounts (lip instead of original smooth tube) and they also simplified the trigger guard milling that reduced the firing chamber volume, which of course increases operating pressure.
*Basically* you'll probably want to tune it yourself and make a note of the pressures you end up on because who knows what's going on with all these combinations of parts.
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So one thing to keep in mind is HK used the VCOM name on ALL their reproductions even though they came with a VIS engine…. VCOM stood for “Victory Change Over Motor” which was their spool valve.
historically the VIS and Supercharger/d had a distinctive “crack” in the shot.. they were both more efficient than the spool but louder with a distinctive shot sound…
historically you could “tune” the systems to whatever was most important to you.. me personally I always tuned for the quietest/smoothest marker I could, at the sacrifice of efficiency..
I think stock the Vis engine ran at about 7ms dwell, I always bumped it up to 9-10 for both reliability and sound signature even higher in the cold… you can tune the pressures using the traditional lurker methodLast edited by Frmrspec; 10-24-2024, 11:28 AM.
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Just to make sure you are talking about this method?
"1: Back out both regs completely or set both the HPR and LPR to 0 psi.
2: Raise HPR slightly (only to set LPR for cycling).
3: Raise LPR to fully cycling ~45 psi or so.
4: Raise HPR until velocity begins to stop rising as you increase pressure.
5: Raise LPR to desired velocity.
6: Lower HPR a bit, then raise if necessary... You're trying to find the best HPR setting at the LPR setting you have. This may put your velocity over 300/285.
7: Lower LPR slightly to field velocity."
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Cyberpyr8 which engine? I primarily use my Vcom engine which works with approx the same LPR, but about 40-50psi less than the VIS
jokers essentially that but a little different (may be the same just worded a little different) Once I get into FPS range I raise lpr until velocity stops increasing, then I back off HPR, and reset LPR to that new HPR settting… I don’t try to fine tune FPS via LPR
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Stock Vis engine. I have my pressures now set at 75 and 205. I had the dwell at 6 but I bumped it up to 9. That's what the manual says they should be. I was just wondering what people are really using. At these settings, it sounds and shoots fine. I am going to look at replacing the detents to see if the ball breaks stops. It seems to work great other than that.
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