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Bob Long’s Defiant Rebuild Thread

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    #16
    And now to deal with the regulator adaptor. To start I hit this with a blow dryer for a bit to loosen the loctite that ended up being on it. Couldn’t find my usual one, so don’t tell me wife I used the good one….

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    So this price threads into the body, and up into the rear lower tube of the body and blocks the value… so it has to come out.

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    After a bit of persuasion the adaptor started to move and o removed it entirely from the body:

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      #17
      Now I can remove the valve and replace those ancient o-rings!


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        #18
        In removing the HPR adaptor I also had to remove the plate the solenoid attaches to. Sure ensure underneath are another few o-ring, that thankful look in great condition.

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        • Myrkul

          Myrkul

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          I would probably still replace these just because of age. It's a #015 and two #006. 70 duro should be fine.

        #19
        And the saddest part on the old marker, it’s well work detent which I think is dead….

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          #20
          Now for further help, I’m going to cheat and reference Myrkul Build thread which shows how to properly work on the markers: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/c...ombie-lachesis

          Need to get the LPR apart so I can get some new o-rings in it.
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            #21
            After studying Myrkel’s thread I’m back at it! One thing about markers this old they were not made for user friendly disassembly!

            I picked the ram as my first adversary. Starting woth a blast from the blowdryer and some brutal force and tools. The end needs to removed from the ram before you can take it apart and fix the internal orings.

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            Once it gave in, disassembly was easy;

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            And don’t forget the innternal o-ring on the ram. Yup, it’s one of those royal pain in the butt ones, but a piece of macroline and a pick managed to convince the oring to get into the internal groove.

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            • Myrkul

              Myrkul

              commented
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              Be sure to polish those pliers marks out of the ram shaft. Location looks like it is far enough back, but if there are any sharp edges you'll end up replacing the #010 more frequently the otherwise.

            • Cdn_Cuda

              Cdn_Cuda

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              Will do! Tried hard to not make any, but was impossible to remove otherwise.

            • Myrkul

              Myrkul

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              Sometimes they are just like that. As long as they are polished at least somewhat smooth and it doesn't leak you should be fine.

            #22
            Next up is the LPR. Thankfully it came apart a lot easier than expected!

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            I do need to check the position of the small spring though as I may have it reversed.
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            • Myrkul

              Myrkul

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              Direction shouldn't matter on the small spring. What does the cup face look like and the seat itself? Those are the problem areas. The brass cup face has to be absolutely perfect to seal. Luckily that's easy to polish. The bigger problem is finding seats right now, in theory you can flip them but I haven't had much luck doing that. Worst case scenario there is always AKA available. They have better airflow to the noid and a trimmed down valve stem for extra valve chamber volume, but are kinda pricey.
              Last edited by Myrkul; 03-31-2025, 08:31 PM.
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