Rainmaker fixup and some info needed

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  • Zac with a H
    Newbie
    • Feb 2022
    • 27

    #1

    Rainmaker fixup and some info needed

    So, it has been a while but I'm back into paintball markers. Snagged a complete RM a while back(thrifty purchase at that) and now looking into fixing this thing up. Now, the single trigger grip frame with select fire board is from a parts gun I had sitting around. In the pics below, the double trigger grip frame with what appears to be a aftermarket board originally came with the complete RM. It appeared to only be in either semi or 3 round burst when I hooked it up to a 9V. Not ideal, so I spliced the board from the single trigger grip frame to the MAC solenoid and installed the single trigger grip frame since I prefer the feel of it.

    Anyways, I cleaned everything up and threw some new o-rings into the gun. Hooked up air to it and the dang thing started firing off on its own and the valve on the HPA tank must have got cocked at a angle and completely emptied itself of air. Maybe I screwed something up. Ah well, going back to the drawing board and apply some Mad Marty mods to the gun. Now, I have questions about that other board because it seems to have a bunch of switches for whatever and the trigger stop is different. I would also like some more info on the LPR and what guys are doing to it, like what is exactly gutting it means? I've also seen others install what looks to be a expansion chamber on front of grip frame but actually an addition to the LPR?

    I'd like to get this thing efficient and employ the selective fire capabilities. My other parts gun could be a candidate for a pump or autococker hybrid project. Only missing the MAC solenoid, hammer, carrier, a barrel, and bolt cover. Before I dive into that project, I may start picking some brains on my current RM and I'd appreciate any info, advice, and how-to to get this going. Main goal is to keep it from leaking and operational, then move onto the mods. Actually nice to have a complete RM even if it doesn't work right lol
  • Daltech
    Electro<Mech<Pump
    • Feb 2022
    • 902
    • West Coast

    #2
    Single trigger with the Jacko. 😋 mmm.

    Comment


    • Zac with a H
      Zac with a H commented
      Editing a comment
      What is exactly a Jacko? I'm still a NOOB to these things LOL. Only know enough about Raptors, little about the Mags, and Kingman pumps

    • gabe
      gabe commented
      Editing a comment
      It's the barrel, it's a Jacko Infinity. Used on RM's and early Angels
  • Jordan
    I. Am. Canadian. 🇨🇦
    • Jul 2020
    • 3508
    • Southern Ontario, Canada

    #3
    It might be a Gale Force board - a lot of those boards made by KM2 were blue, and I remember them having quite a few dipswitches.

    Here's the manual for the Gale Force:

    https://web.archive.org/web/20030120...ducts/gale.htm

    And I grabbed a screenshot off the website - it certainly looks like that's what you have.

    Click image for larger version

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    • Zac with a H
      Newbie
      • Feb 2022
      • 27

      #4
      WOW, seems pretty redundant to set it up along with the fact that the switches are hidden behind the grip plate rather than being accessible through a slot like the factory boards. I wonder if there is an advantage to using this board, as in trigger response time and whatnot? KM2 is the website, right? I tried googling Gale Force the other day and came up with a bunch of unrelated nonsense. While you're here LOL, would you also explain to me the whole process of gutting the LPR, the advantages of doing so, and adding a LPR reg? I've seen guys attach something to the back of the stock LPR block and others mounting something to the front of the grip frame. I just want to explore some ideas. Definitely adding a on/off ASA due to what happened when I added air to the marker the other day. All the fresh hardware is already rusting up lol

      Comment


      • Jordan
        Jordan commented
        Editing a comment
        The board is trigger-programmable, so no need to access dipswitches normally. The advantages were basically firing modes, most electronic semis at the time had straight semi, or you paid a couple hundred more bucks to get things like "turbo" mode on the Shocker Sport. KM2 sold the board for $95 and it was plug and play.
    • Jordan
      I. Am. Canadian. 🇨🇦
      • Jul 2020
      • 3508
      • Southern Ontario, Canada

      #5
      Did you have a look in the Rainmaker Info sticky?

      Comment


      • Zac with a H
        Zac with a H commented
        Editing a comment
        I have seen your post on a few Mad Marty mods which I've saved. If there's other info to read through, I'll look for them
    • Zac with a H
      Newbie
      • Feb 2022
      • 27

      #6
      Seen some info on here. Guess I actually meant gutting the HPA and capping the LPR. Still curious how others are modding other LPRs to the RM. Just wondering how y'all performed the setups and how the performance is

      Comment

      • Jordan
        I. Am. Canadian. 🇨🇦
        • Jul 2020
        • 3508
        • Southern Ontario, Canada

        #7
        Originally posted by Zac with a H
        Seen some info on here. Guess I actually meant gutting the HPA and capping the LPR. Still curious how others are modding other LPRs to the RM. Just wondering how y'all performed the setups and how the performance is
        Easiest way to replace the LPR is plug the elbow with a 10-32 screw and run a Cocker LPR off an elbow on the other side of the reg block.

        To replace the HPR, drill out the front frame hole (the hole in that little extension in front of the trigger guard, under the ram) with a 1/4" drill bit and install an Automag vertical ASA, then thread in any conventional reg like a Sidewinder, CP, or Stabilizer and run hoses as needed.

        If I still had a Rainmaker I'd take some pictures but I stopped playing around with them a long time ago.

        Comment

        • Zac with a H
          Newbie
          • Feb 2022
          • 27

          #8
          Okay, by going that route, is it still necessary to gut and seal the stock cap? I understand how the HPR reg is to be setup. I'm guessing a new line from a aftermarket LPR will go to the solenoid?

          Comment

          • Jordan
            I. Am. Canadian. 🇨🇦
            • Jul 2020
            • 3508
            • Southern Ontario, Canada

            #9
            Originally posted by Zac with a H
            Okay, by going that route, is it still necessary to gut and seal the stock cap? I understand how the HPR reg is to be set up. I'm guessing a new line from an aftermarket LPR will go to the solenoid?
            You should gut the HPR if you're planning on running a different one to avoid starving the gun.

            If you intend to run an aftermarket LPR, you have to plug the stock one or you'll have a massive leak.

            Comment

            • Breakdown
              Rockin and Cockin
              • Mar 2024
              • 39

              #10
              For your parts gun that needs a bolt-cover. Check out Thingiverse, I have one uploaded there you can print

              Comment

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