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    #31
    Got an order of the PGP seals, just after had to replace my first cup seal due to a leak down the barrel. The PGP seal worked like a charm!

    edit: on my second day of play one of the cup seals mushroomed so bad the gun wouldn’t air up or fire after about half a day. Hopefully the next one lasts longer, hoping it was a freak thing.
    Last edited by Winklebottom; 10-20-2024, 07:28 PM.

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    #32
    Originally posted by Winklebottom View Post
    Got an order of the PGP seals, just after had to replace my first cup seal due to a leak down the barrel. The PGP seal worked like a charm!

    edit: on my second day of play one of the cup seals mushroomed so bad the gun wouldn’t air up or fire after about half a day. Hopefully the next one lasts longer, hoping it was a freak thing.
    Sherwoodsghost I am planning to offer a different 5 pack of seals the same size, but a higher duro. I have only heard of this issue twice in the phantoms, so I think its not a problem 90% of the time. But, i developed those seals for the PGP valve face seals. They weren't designed to be a constant motion part like a cup seal. But I will be doing some maintenance on the website this weekend to correct for this.

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    • Sherwoodsghost
      Sherwoodsghost commented
      Editing a comment
      I ordered some universal black magic seals last week from a guy on here. I don't have this issue yet (just bought a 2000's phantom) and also going to order a new one. Herd the new phantoms are having the seal problem, don't know why they would change the old seal material if its all ready tried and true.

    • Myfeetupontheground
      Myfeetupontheground commented
      Editing a comment
      This is definitely not a common issue. I have sold more than 50 of these kits and only heard about the Phantom issue twice. And even then, it has only been with one seal and not all 5. I am hoping its just a oddball, but I am working to find out.

    #33
    Originally posted by Myfeetupontheground View Post

    Sherwoodsghost I am planning to offer a different 5 pack of seals the same size, but a higher duro. I have only heard of this issue twice in the phantoms, so I think its not a problem 90% of the time. But, i developed those seals for the PGP valve face seals. They weren't designed to be a constant motion part like a cup seal. But I will be doing some maintenance on the website this weekend to correct for this.
    sorry for the late response all, Haven’t had any issues with the 2nd cup seal even after a couple of days of play. A little cold here for paintball So I will have to wait for spring for more data. Using a part other than its intended purpose having unforeseen one-off problems? Who could have guessed?! (Heavy sarcasm). Thanks for the hard work!

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      #34
      I ordered the entire assembly (powertube, nut/seat, cupseal) from EV and it leaked. That seat is hard as a rock...

      Getting it apart was a pain, they used some type of glue/threadlocker on the powertube threads.

      I popped a blue AutoMag reg seat in there and it is working fine. I'll see how long it lasts....
      Walkers Current Feedback

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        #35
        EV switched to nylon for cup seals and pierce pins. Not a fan.

        Myfeetupontheground sent me some test seals in a harder urethane and, so far, so good. (my garage was around 60F) They're a little thicker than stock (1/8") but i think stiff enough it's not a big deal.
        Feedback
        www.PhrameworkDesigns.com < Nelspot sears and triggers back in stock! Also Sterling feeds, Empire feedneck adapters, and some upcoming projects.

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          #36
          Walker
          What did you do/use to get the powertube and cupseal apart?

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          • Walker

            Walker

            commented
            Editing a comment
            The cupseal had a small brass insert in the center of it (like the tophat on an Autococker pneumatic barb). The powertube threaded into that, and there are also threads on the other side of the seal/insert, in the larger brass piece.

            I clamped the powertube in a soft jaw vice and used pliers on the protrusion that the spring sets on. The main brass piece unscrewed and the seal itself and brass insert remained attached to the powertube. The seal twisted off the powertube by hand, but the insert remained. I heated that and was able to remove it from the powertube.

          #37
          Walker
          Thanks for the information!

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