Disassembling a CCM for Anodizing

[JeepDVLZ45]

Wasn’t sure if I should put this here or in “ask the experts” but here goes….

How do I remove the pump arms from the back plate and the lower pump plead guide from the Reg extension? (don’t really know what to call that piece….see pictures below)

They don’t look like they’re threaded in, and there is no hex head or flat spot for a wrench. Are they pressed in? Or epoxied?

I’m sending out my marker for ano soon and I can’t figure out how to remove these last couple pieces. Thanks!





more questions at the end!!

[BLachance75]

They are threaded in. It may take a little heat to get them off.

[iamthelazerviking]

The secondary guide rod on the vertical ASA is held in with red loctite from what I recall. Strap wrench and heat.

The two pump arms I'm not sure about since they are threaded for screws on the sled end. Usually you can throw on two 8-32 nuts, lock them down, then you can use a wrench on one of the nuts to loosen as you heat up the threads on the plate.

[JeepDVLZ45]

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a strap wrench small enough for the secondary rod guide, but I’ll see what I can find. And how much heat are we talking here? Dipping into a pot of boiling water for several minutes, or hitting it with a torch?

The double nut trick for the pump arms tis easy enough, I assumed they were threaded, but I didn’t want to crank on them in case they weren’t

[Bow]

All three rods are threaded in. I just built a quadrod out of a trip rod.

Red loctite from factory. You'll need some heat to melt it back to a liquid.

You could use rubber or leather to lock the rod into a vice and turn the pump plate or the ASA to remove them. That's what I did anyways.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Heat leather belt and a vice. I have a special tool to separate the Cam and AT lever if you need it. You will bend it otherwise if it’s the new thin style.

[JeepDVLZ45]

I got one more question….

how the heck do I get this retaining pin out to remove the AT?!?



all the others have a push point opposite the pin I can get into to push it out…

[BLachance75]

The pin should slide out if you hold the frame upside down. There may be a little gunk in there that is holding it in. Try putting some alcohol in the hole to see it it will free it. Maybe hit it with some compressed air if that doesn’t work.

[JeepDVLZ45]

I bet that’s the issue. There is A LOT of old paint inside the trigger frame. I never thought of using alcohol to clean it out though.

I had it in hot water for a few minutes, and when that didn’t work, I resorted to swearing at it for 20 minutes (that didn’t work either)

I’ll see what booze can do! Thanks for the tip

[dano_____]

Boiling water is usually enough to break loose the red loctite. If that fails a clean soldering iron applied to the rod until you see smoke will definitely take care of it. If you need to grip the rod you can take a vice grip with a penny on each side of the jaws and clamp it down tight. That will give you a mar free grip and has worked for me to bust things loose. Repeat for the pump arms. For the pin, they are magnetic so if you can't get it out from gravity try a rare earth magnet and wiggle the at cam until it comes out.

[Cunha]

A lot of good advice here except I've never been able to do anything to red loctite with boiling water.

[dano_____]

Steel to steel I have not gotten red loctite to break loose without a lot of heat, but with aluminum to steel Since the aluminum expands more than the steel my theory is that it fractures the loctite rather than burn it out. I have done this on a couple of tanks in the past and also to a rod on an S6 pump that had the AT pin hole not aligned properly.

[Chuck E Ducky]

That retention pin literally just sits in the frame. It’s not loctite in. When new you have to be careful no to lose it they can fall out when you remove the frame. But overtime paint will wedge itself between the frame and body settling in that area making it difficult to remove. Wiggle the AT cam while you try and work it out. They can be hard to remove sometimes. Compressed air and Rubbing alcohol is what I use. Like Brian suggested

[Guest]

I had good luck with adding a a magnet into the mix for the autotrigger pin. Good luck!

[alpha_q_up]

Also cause this is CCM related and I'm too lazy to make my own thread/figured hijacking this one is easier, how do you disassemble a ccm trigger properly? I see there is a roller?
bearing and a ball bearing in the trigger. Before I start prying it apart is there any easier method for disassembly?

[Cunha]

The pins in the trigger just press right in and right out.

Call CCM because I believe there is a correct direction from them (the hole is slightly smaller on one side) however the pin is straight and not tapered or flared or flanged or peened to be larger on one end.

[alpha_q_up]

Thanks! I'll check it out when I get home today

[JeepDVLZ45]

Whelp, it out! Marker is nothing more than a pile of parts now. Now I'm double-checking everything, re-inventorying, bubble wrapping, labeling, boxing up and mailing out.

Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions.

[ketzer7]

Sorry to revive this, but I'm currently in the process of doing the same thing to my T2, and was wondering how you ended up getting the pump arms out of the pump plate?

The only threading I see is female in the back of the pump arms, so I wasn't sure what people were suggesting when saying to use the two threaded nuts trick. Am I completely missing what was meant?

I think I can probably get the stabilizing rod out of the VASA using the tips already on here. I have a mini vise, a heat gun, and some scrap leather around I think will work. The heat gun already worked for removing an NPT plug in the ASA, and the base of the CCM air fittings on the reg and the ASA. On mine they had been red Loctited in, but the heat gun seemed to make pretty quick work of it.

In any case, I just need some pointers on how to get the pump arms out of the pump plate since I don't want to F them up..

[JeepDVLZ45]

I wrapped the pump arms in duct tape (I don’t have a bench vise and the leather kept slipping on me) thick enough to get a firm grip with vice grips. Then I took a torch to the plate a bit to break up the lock tite and backed it out

[ketzer7]

Thanks, I'll give it a try

[JeepDVLZ45]

Good luck. The one that has the autotrigger is much easier, but the one without it was tough until I got it good and hot