Screw stuck on t2 pump arm

[Phantom1313]

Went to install a slot blocker on my t2, and it appears the right side pump arm screw has sorta seized and the head has rounded out…..not a single bit I have seems to get a solid bite in there….trying to avoid scratching my dust anno in the process also makes the task a little harder.

any ideas folks? I’m sure one of you has found a genius workaround to this issue….. is this a job for a screw extractor/easy-out? Or am I risking a bigger problem going that route?

thanks in advance for any solutions!

[Magageddon]

have you tried a star bit head? other that heat or freezing it, thats all i can think of

2 other ways would be to file a notch in the screw head to use a flat head screwdriver or a half notch and use a puch/small hammer to tap it counterclockwise loose

[Phantom1313]

have you tried a star bit head? other that heat or freezing it, thats all i can think of

2 other ways would be to file a notch in the screw head to use a flat head screwdriver or a half notch and use a puch/small hammer to tap it counterclockwise loose

yeah I started with a star shaped bit….the damn thing was rounded out by the prior owner, it seems they used a hex wrench instead of the star shaped bit. I’m also only checking this after years of owning the damn thing, so it’s a bit on me for not looking into this earlier.

[Frmrspec]

Disassemble as much as you can and hit it with heat. Loctite is tough to overcome on small screws. Usually I would slot the screw face but I’m not how sure of yourself you are to not slip.

[$L!mBo]

soldering iron > any sort of flame

[flyweightnate]

The Speed-Out bits at Home Depot are decent for the price and convenience ($20 for a set of 4); the back side is basically a left hand center drill that gives me good luck on most small screws. I've broken a few so that should give you an idea of how well they bite.

Starting with heat then using these would be my approach. Press hard, drill (in reverse) slowly. 60-100 rpm. If the drill end cuts instead of biting, flip it over and use the tapered end. Worst case it takes the head off the screw, but then you can tackle the remainder without risking your backblock.

[Phantom1313]

Ok, resurrecting this for a clarification: I only have a torch, the butane kind, to heat with. Is this a danger to my dust anno? Also, I imagine I “brush” the screw head with the flame to get it hot enough, not a straight blasting right?

WD-40 didn’t loosen it, and at this point I’m thinking heat (or concentrated cold, maybe a blast from a 12gram?) are my best bets to loosen this fucker and have a Hope of catching the screw head with a torx or at worst a speed-out

really wanna get this screw out and install a slot blocker….

[Spangler]

I would go about this 3 different ways.

(1) go to local auto parts store and get some of the PB blaster. Wya better for this kind of stuff than wd40

(2) use a file and carefully slot the Andrew head so you can use a flat head, since it sounds like it is stripped.

(3) use a small torch to head up the rod area just next to the back block area. Heat can mess with anno. So just little bit at a time to heat it up.

Odds are you are going to have to do all tree to get it out.

[C5TEK]

Most people try and use a standard torx bit for those screws... they are not standard torx. They are torx plus bolts. More rounded grooves than flat. Get a torx plus bit like the one I have. Plus use a little heat from a hair dryer or heat gun. I would use a flame as a last resort.

https://www.finepowertools.com/hand-tools/torx-vs-torx-plus/