New CZR not firing, and Rail problem

[Raven911]

Yesterday I got to play with my brand new CZR for the first time. Got one game done, the next game it starting shooting down like I was out of air, it would cough and fire out two balls a few feet and act like it was starving for air. My tank was full. I thought it might be the battery but it was good. Not sure what to do . I just bagged it and played with my 11 rail the rest of the day. any ideas?

also…

my daughters 2013 rail, it stopped firing. I pulled the loader off and looked in the breech. The ball in there was rolling backwards towards the bolt and not activating the eyes to fire. If I tipped it forward so the ball rolled up it would fire. Everything inside of stock. It’s been working fine up to this point and not sure what the issue is. The paint was a G I Sports mid grade. Anyone idea on this issue?

[Olsson]

The issue with the 2013 Rail could possibly be attributed to the minimal size of the paint nowadays. Just as you observed, the paint can roll slightly backward (or forward), so that it simply doesn't break the eye beam. I have seen several players have the problem, and I have had it myself. It is extra aggravating with a force feed loader, so the paint is jammed in place where the eyes won't detect it...

I don't have an easy solution to this problem, unfortunately.

[Raven911]

That’s what I was wondering. It’s weird though thst the 09 and the 11 were ok. Though I did have to shake my 11 a few times. The paint I’ve shot prior to this seemed ok. This stuff did look a good bit smaller though.

[glaman5266]

What loader are you using? Like Olsson said, sometimes force-feed loaders can be problematic with small paint. Spyders have a similar problem with 1.5 balls in the breech causing chops. They simply work better with agitated loaders. Perhaps try an agitated loader like a Revolution. If you want something faster than a Revolution then maybe try a Protoyz (Planet Eclipse) Speedster loader. It's basically a Revvy on steroids. I have one & I think they're a great middle ground between the Revvy & a force-feed.

Even if the eyes look clean, pull & clean them anyway. That might fix it too. Can't hurt to try it.

[Raven911]

What loader are you using? Like Olsson said, sometimes force-feed loaders can be problematic with small paint. Spyders have a similar problem with 1.5 balls in the breech causing chops. They simply work better with agitated loaders. Perhaps try an agitated loader like a Revolution. If you want something faster than a Revolution then maybe try a Protoyz (Planet Eclipse) Speedster loader. It's basically a Revvy on steroids. I have one & I think they're a great middle ground between the Revvy & a force-feed.

Even if the eyes look clean, pull & clean them anyway. That might fix it too. Can't hurt to try it.

using revys on both.

[glaman5266]

Oof. No clue then, aside from re-cleaning the eyes or looking for larger paint.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Can you pad the bolt out with a larger bumper at the back of the bolt? Maybe an Oring behind the bolt bumper or something. If the difference is upper small paint I’m sure it only needs a lil bit to keep that ball forward just a hair.

Maybe a after oring on the bolt face? (May interfere with its forward motion tho)

or a larger bumper on the back side maybe to restrict its travel back.

You could machine in one of those PE soft tip bolt inserts I bet. Set it a lil farther forward.

[MrBarraclough]

Very sorry to hear that, about both markers. First things first, contact DYE support. Obviously, a brand new CZR should not do that. If it's a manufacturing issue, they'll be aware of the problem and know what the fix is. But my suspicion is that it is something that happened to the marker that day, since it got through a game okay before misbehaving. If you want to take a crack at it, I have a few ideas:

1. How sure are you about how good that battery is? Try a fresh, just out of the package, name brand battery. The CZR is sensitive to battery voltage drop and doesn't like partially charged batteries. If you installed the battery when you first got the marker and tested it at home and left it in there, then this is actually a likely culprit. The CZR unfortunately inherited the vampiric battery drain tendencies of its DYE and Proto ancestors. My chief annoyance with mine is that I have to remove the battery after each day of play or else trash and replace it on my next outing. Assume any battery that has been left in the marker for more than a week to be bad. A cheap analog battery tester is one of my favorite tools. Find a battery that maxes out the tester to try in the marker before ruling out battery charge issues.
2. Debris in the on/off ASA or the HPR is one suspect. Between the two, the reg is easier to disassemble and check. Taking apart the ASA requires prying off the jewel sticker in the center of the on/off knob and getting that thing off and back on without tearing it up is very difficult. Opening the HPR just requires removing the internal snap ring from the bottom and then the piston will unscrew.
3. Another potential suspect is a defective capacitor preventing the solenoid from opening all the way or staying open long enough to fully vent the dump chamber. Take the body off the grip frame, find the capacitor, and look for the telltale bulging/doming of the top end (opposite the contacts). If the top of the capacitor is anything but flat, I'd replace it. Easy enough fix. They're usually about $10 or so and just plug into the board. I had to do that a month or two ago to get a 2011 Rail up and running again.

As for the 2013 Rail, I'm not really sure what to do there. 9 years ago no one thought about any potential need to adjust the breach geometry to accomodate paint sizing. Maybe check with TechT to see if they have a soft face bolt with swappable bumpers? Or cut/punch out a little dot of neoprene and superglue it to the bolt face, Automag foamie style?

[Raven911]

Ok well went through and did clean up and maintenance on everything from the weekend. When I got to the CZR it was still doing the same thing. I did swap out the battery with a new energizer and it appears to have solved the problem. Yay! Thanks for the help. That’s what I get for assuming the battery that it came with was good.

as far as the 13, Chuck Ducky’s suggestion about a spacer behind the bolt, anyone see any reasons who that wouldn’t work? It seems as long as it’s not too far it shouldn’t throw anything out of wack. I’ll give it a try.

[Raven911]

Update on the 13. I popped the bolt assembly out and when I did I noticed that the face of the bolt was flush with the can. The o ring on the front of the bolt was apparently worn enough that it was going too far back in the can. I replaced it and checked by dropping balls in the. Breech and tilting it back. They were still triggering the eye beam, so that appears to have been the problem. Test fired a few balls with no issues.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Easy fix nice!

[Raven911]

I’m going to replace the front and rear bumpers tomorrow just in case.