Gen E/DM3 Matrix resource

[lew]

I'm a big fan of the AKA SCM on my matrix. I've only just had a couple 'trixes with the AKA lpr and one with a PBC lpr and between the two they both did their jobs just fine but the aesthetics of the AKA reg are just too good. Another thing to consider is the ability to remove the breech. Apparently you have to thread out or remove completely the Palmer's Rock regs to get the breech off with the Matrix version of the Rock.

Bottom line: if you can swing it go with the AKA SCM III. If not then whatever LPR will do the job. The LPR is not the most important part of the system.

I'm with you on the aesthetics. I think a long LPR looks good on a Cocker, but the SCM looks the best on the Matrix, and it performs exceedingly well.

[lew]

Bones sent me all the info, I am rebuilding the site

That is most excellent to hear. Good luck with the process.

[latches109]

With Bones Jackson's legendary Matrix information trove MIA and him unwilling to do anything about it, is there another resource out there? Mainly looking for an o-ring and troubleshooting guide.

Bones sent me all the info, I am rebuilding the site

[gabe]

I'm a big fan of the AKA SCM on my matrix. I've only just had a couple 'trixes with the AKA lpr and one with a PBC lpr and between the two they both did their jobs just fine but the aesthetics of the AKA reg are just too good. Another thing to consider is the ability to remove the breech. Apparently you have to thread out or remove completely the Palmer's Rock regs to get the breech off with the Matrix version of the Rock.

Bottom line: if you can swing it go with the AKA SCM III. If not then whatever LPR will do the job. The LPR is not the most important part of the system.

[lew]

they did, but theres a reason why you dont see many of them.

That good, huh? If you happen to know why, what was the problem and why did it suck when the FGP is the gold standard for Cockers?

Thanks for your help, too.

[Tracker]

they did, but theres a reason why you dont see many of them.

[lew]

LPRs are all largely based on the ANS jackhammer 2 LPR.. aardvark, PBC being the 2 most common of that style, they work fine

the gen 1 dyes were not good, the Gen2's (little round thing) made up for that

the AKA's are always good, but make sure you get SCM3 internals and a wide piston, ive had a piston try to flip before and get stuck, was not cool, the last gen SCM that was smaller is another "gold standard" reg IMO

Yeah, I'm not a fan of the ANS, although one of my Cockers has one. Didn't Shocktech make an FGP for the Matrix? That's my preferred Cocker LPR. If not, the AKA on my old DM3 worked great, and I'll just get one of those.

[Tracker]

LPRs are all largely based on the ANS jackhammer 2 LPR.. aardvark, PBC being the 2 most common of that style, they work fine

the gen 1 dyes were not good, the Gen2's (little round thing) made up for that

the AKA's are always good, but make sure you get SCM3 internals and a wide piston, ive had a piston try to flip before and get stuck, was not cool, the last gen SCM that was smaller is another "gold standard" reg IMO

[Tracker]

Not sure about everything being interchangeable. I had an early-ish Gen-E matrix LED at the same time as a DM3 and tried to swap things around for fun. I found that the bodies on the Gen-E guns that came with the early bare aluminum bolts are the same length but the front locating circlip for the bolt is further back. When trying to put a LCD/DM3 bolt in it would not seat all the way down and close inspection showed that the early 3-port bolt kit was about 1/8" shorter than the later LCD multi-hole bolt.

i had an original matrix, pewter panels and all, i never had an issue with any bolt kit fitting. and i even had a slam bolt in it at one point

ooooh, 3 port bolt.
your talking about 2 different bolts from 2 different kits, that bolt belongs to the original bolt assembly that were black with brown viton o-rings that everyone looked at as inferior to buena, buts they stopped putting those in anything by the time the LED came out they called it the "image bolt"


all of the bolts that were stock post LED were all direct copies of the Aardvark "red" bolt, and thus interchangeable

all of the add on and mod parts out there (leethal mod, C4 back cap, Freeflow bolt.. etc..) were based on the "image bolt" spec so even the evovle gold bolt can be mixed and matched if necessary

[lew]

Again, you deliver. Thanks,mate!

Thoughts on specific LPR's? The NDZ one on it has enough finish wear to detract from the overall marker's appearance, and I hate how easy it is for paint to get in through the hollow adjustment screw. Is the AKA SCM 3 still the gold standard?

[gabe]

Not sure about everything being interchangeable. I had an early-ish Gen-E matrix LED at the same time as a DM3 and tried to swap things around for fun. I found that the bodies on the Gen-E guns that came with the early bare aluminum bolts are the same length but the front locating circlip for the bolt is further back. When trying to put a LCD/DM3 bolt in it would not seat all the way down and close inspection showed that the early 3-port bolt kit was about 1/8" shorter than the later LCD multi-hole bolt.

[Tracker]

DM3 vs genE is easy

DM3 has teardrops milled into the frame above the trigger guard, and the "scoops" on the side are milled back to the 9 volt area vs about mid way, and of course guaranteed eyes from the factory.

everything is interchangeable dont be surprised if you get some mix and match.. mine is a gen E body with a DM3 frame..

[gabe]

Glad to be of help! I really love the Matrix/DM platform and its simplicity

When you set the regs make sure to start really low on the HPR and just turn it up to maybe 100psi then turn the LPR up until the bolt snaps back into place (if starting with the bolt forward which I would recommend). After that slowly work the LPR and HPR up until you see about 280fps. Start gradually increasing the LPR pressure until you see the fps top out and stabilize to around +/- 5 to 7 fps. That sets the LPR pressure. Then work the HPR up to field velocity if you're still low. The dwell I like to run 20ms which is super high but it allows for very low LPR pressure and bolt speed which makes this gun great later in the season when it gets cold and paint is super brittle. For best efficiency a dwell of around 12-15ms is the norm.

[lew]

Gabe, your insight has put my mind at ease, and I thank you heartily for that.

So, the ROF just tells you how fast you can move your digits. I got up to 12 bps, which is more than enough for me. I usually shoot with only my index finger, though.

I ordered another board because I like spare parts, but it seems like this one is good-to-go. I threw a spare manifold Max Flo and a CP gas-thru on, so I just need to air it up and set the regs.

[gabe]

You should be able to turn the buzzer off and change the timer to 0 all though the menus. The timer does run all the time after the first trigger pull in live mode.

As far as the ROF, those counters are for the current ROF and maximum ROF. They do not determine ROF cap. The board does not have an ROF cap as it was made during the time when all boards were semi only and uncapped. To make an ROF cap you have to do some maths and set the ball in place delay to some absurdly long number, mine will go up to 100ms bip delay but after turning off and back on it will only save up to a 35ms bip delay. With 20ms of dwell and 80ms bip delay that is 10bps. I let it go at 20ms dwell and 35ms bip and that runs around 12 or 12.5 bps cap.

I should mention that yes, there is an "unlock" button that you have to access under the left grip panel that you have to press to adjust the dwell and other parameters. You will see a little lock symbol on the screen and after pressing the button it will "unlock". It's just a little button forward and above the screen behind the microswitch area.