Evil Omen Disassembly

[Cdn_Cuda]

It’s time to get a little Evil….



Let’s get this frickin’ show on the road!

Here will have an Evil Omen. Someone with more knowledge that I have will be able to identify whether this is a 1 or a 1.5. I’m fair certain it’s not a 2.

[Cdn_Cuda]

So the most notable aspect of these markers is the ubique and rather strange method of feeding balls. Instead of having a standard ball stack, letting balls fall into breach, the feedneck has a noticeable offset to the side of the marker.



In this offset are two long “planks” that I shall now refer to by their more technical name: “ball slappers”. As you can guess by their technical name, the ball slappers slap the balls into the breach.



And the feedneck itself is secure by an Allen bolt. Once release the entire feed system swings up and out of the way, leaving the ball slappers completely exposed. So in a way, it’s kind of like an Angel breach, except much rougher on your balls.

[Cdn_Cuda]

So when the bolt is forward, the ball slappers is at rest.
So in the picture below you can see the white of the bolt at the breach:

Once the bolt moves backwards, it triggers the cam in the body (will show this later in the disassembly) and the ball slapper slaps the ball into the breach and hold it there until the bolt returns forward. Yes, this loveable oddball is actually a closed bolt shooter!

[Cdn_Cuda]

So now that we’ve gotten our balls slapped around a little, let’s continue with the disassembly.


The grip frame uses the standard two-screw layout. There are no eyes on the marker, so the frame separates easily. The Evil Detonator reg comes off easily as well and the body is free.

The grip frame is nothing fancy, and has room for a capacitor and a battery, and the board is along the top of the frame, as you can see by all the wires.


You can the pop the quick release pin in the body and slide out the internals:

[Cdn_Cuda]

At this point, the valve is still in the gun, as well as the valve spring and pin. There’s a bit of a secret with the valve that I initially missed, but I’ll cover that later.


For now, let’s look at the bits and pieces we just removed. I have also removed the front air chamber, which contains the valve spring and pin:


Overall it looks pretty Spyder-like, until you notice the hammer, which has two pieces:


To be perfectly honest, I don’t really understand why they used a two-piece hammer, other than to all you to cock the hammer without slapping any balls into the breach. But it alls for a much cooler way to cock the marker than a standard Spyder:


Simply yank that middle rod and you cock the hammer, similar to an Autococker.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now let’s turn our attention back to the body for a
monent, as we’ll need to take a look at the cam that activates the ball slapper:
As you can see, it’s located on the right side of the body along the outcropping for the feed. As the bolt passes by this cam, balls are advanced into the breach.

So the final part still in the body is the actual valve itself. It looks fairly similar to a Spyder or cocker vavle, but has a side passage in it. As it turns out this is a very important detail.

As is standard for cocker and Spyder bodied, there is a valve retention screw in the bottom of the body:


I foolishly thought that was all I needed to remove to get the valve out, but the darn things was jammed in tight. Even hammer it with a dowel didn’t make it budge…. And that’s where the little screw on the other side of the body comes in:

The wee little bugger, that is very easy to overlook, is actually a second valve retention screw. Not sure why they were so worried about the valve moving, but thankfully I did not damage the long grub screw to the point where I could not remove it. Don’t be me and whack the valve with a hammer repeatedly!

shooter311 clarified that this screw is for setting the recocking of the marker. It should be screwed in at the beginning of the day, and adjusted by making quarter turns to ensure marker recocks softly enough. If set too far out, the recock is too strong and it becomes a paint blender.

[Cdn_Cuda]

A couple final little details include the bolt face:



And another look at the two part hammer:

[Cdn_Cuda]

Saved for shooting impressions

[Cdn_Cuda]

And saved just in case.

[shooter311]

I love these breakdowns! Keep up the good work!!!

One note though. The "Second Valve Retention Screw" Is actually a recock adjuster screw which is extremely important in the operation of the Omen, and I believe the #1 reason everyone thinks the Omen is garbage. Every time you air up the Omen you need to screw that recock screw all the way in. Then screw it out a quarter turn and shoot the marker, if it doesn't recock iteslf screw it out another quarter turn, and continue until it recocks and shoots consistently fast. Then put some paint in and make sure it recocks with paint in it.

Most people would just leave that screw unscrewed too far which made the recock pressure way too high. This resulted in a massive kick which made the marker shoot like a tommy gun and the paddles would slap the paint way too hard into the breach creating a blender effect.

I am in the very small group that would adjust that at the beginning of the play day and I never once had a problem. I actually won a couple local tournaments playing with it. I personally am a huge fan of the Omen and will pick up a "non-working" one for cheap any chance I get because it is usually missing the recock screw and that is the only problem it is recoking way too hard. (New recock screws are on super staunchy customs).


Also, I believe it is a 1.5. If I remember correctly the 1.5 had the red section the back block hits. The original was black. The 2.0 Omens had a third paddle to prevent force feed hoppers from jamming a ball between the two paddles.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Awesome! Thanks for that information. I’ll update my post to clarify what this screw is and how to use it.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Also looked at the replacement screw and it must be for version 2 as it is significantly different than what I have. It also comes with two o-ring but might had no o-rings

[Brandon]

I always wanted one of these to run good but I had a couple and they were all lemons .. this thread is making me want to pick up another !!

[Cyberpyr8]

I love these breakdowns! Keep up the good work!!!

One note though. The "Second Valve Retention Screw" Is actually a recock adjuster screw which is extremely important in the operation of the Omen, and I believe the #1 reason everyone thinks the Omen is garbage. Every time you air up the Omen you need to screw that recock screw all the way in. Then screw it out a quarter turn and shoot the marker, if it doesn't recock iteslf screw it out another quarter turn, and continue until it recocks and shoots consistently fast. Then put some paint in and make sure it recocks with paint in it.

Most people would just leave that screw unscrewed too far which made the recock pressure way too high. This resulted in a massive kick which made the marker shoot like a tommy gun and the paddles would slap the paint way too hard into the breach creating a blender effect.

I am in the very small group that would adjust that at the beginning of the play day and I never once had a problem. I actually won a couple local tournaments playing with it. I personally am a huge fan of the Omen and will pick up a "non-working" one for cheap any chance I get because it is usually missing the recock screw and that is the only problem it is recoking way too hard. (New recock screws are on super staunchy customs).


Also, I believe it is a 1.5. If I remember correctly the 1.5 had the red section the back block hits. The original was black. The 2.0 Omens had a third paddle to prevent force feed hoppers from jamming a ball between the two paddles.

^^^^1000% this is the reason most people had problems with Omens. I would do this every time I used ours and had no issues playing 8 hours at a time.

Brandon if you get one, try to pickup a 2.0. Replace the orings and clean it up and it should be good to go. I rebuild one a while ago and it was pretty simple. I ended up replacing the reg with a Hyper3 just because they are new and easy to work on. I haven't had much luck with the detonators, plus they are pretty heavy. I typically replace them right away. I had no real issues rebuilding the Omen. They are pretty basic once you get down to it. Much easier than a Pimp to break down.

[glaman5266]

One note though. The "Second Valve Retention Screw" Is actually a recock adjuster screw which is extremely important in the operation of the Omen, and I believe the #1 reason everyone thinks the Omen is garbage. Every time you air up the Omen you need to screw that recock screw all the way in. Then screw it out a quarter turn and shoot the marker, if it doesn't recock iteslf screw it out another quarter turn, and continue until it recocks and shoots consistently fast. Then put some paint in and make sure it recocks with paint in it.

Most people would just leave that screw unscrewed too far which made the recock pressure way too high. This resulted in a massive kick which made the marker shoot like a tommy gun and the paddles would slap the paint way too hard into the breach creating a blender effect.

Also, I believe it is a 1.5. If I remember correctly the 1.5 had the red section the back block hits. The original was black. The 2.0 Omens had a third paddle to prevent force feed hoppers from jamming a ball between the two paddles.

My cousin has a 2.0 & his main issue was with the recock screw. Managed to play around with it so much he stripped it out. Got that fixed though. However, we just set it to where it would recock & never touched it again. Shoots fine. Does the manual say to set it every time? I've never read the actual manual for an Omen.

Good to know about the 2.0s having a third paddle. That's something I never noticed. I do remember the 2.0 having a flat-bottomed trigger guard, not with that dip coming off the grip/handle.

I always wanted one of these to run good but I had a couple and they were all lemons .. this thread is making me want to pick up another !!

Like Cyberpyr8 said, look for a 2.0. It's the best version and, when set up properly, are excellent paintguns IMO. The HPR is really the only weak point (reg seats & that annoying 007 o-ring).

[shooter311]

My cousin has a 2.0 & his main issue was with the recock screw. Managed to play around with it so much he stripped it out. Got that fixed though. However, we just set it to where it would recock & never touched it again. Shoots fine. Does the manual say to set it every time? I've never read the actual manual for an Omen.

I have not read the manual in like 20 years, but I do believe it says to set it every time. Keep in mind though, it is all about input pressure, and these can run on CO2, which fluctuates drastically. however, if you have HPA and are using the same output pressure every time you should be good to set it and forget it. I personally adjust it every time just because it literally takes me a minute extra at the chrono.

[Cyberpyr8]

That's correct it does say to set each time. I would normally test it to be sure it wasn't un-cocking and if it held through shooting 10-20 shots, I left it alone.

[glaman5266]

Thanks for the info guys. :thumbup:

[Cdn_Cuda]

So I finally gotten around to shooting this for the first time. Aired it up and was double firing, so unscrewed the recocking screw and got it sorted. Surprisingly a pretty fun marker to shoots. Had as the fun slappy movements of an autococker but a harder feeling shot, best described as a less civilized cocker. Accuracy? Well I was using the stock barrel with paint the is likely older than one if not two of my children. But I could regularly hit my target mask in the lens. Better barrel and better paint would no doubt help.

What sucks on it is the feedneck. Just threw an Empire Gravity hopper on it and it fell off twice. Sanding of the feedneck is a must. I think Paintballgear.ca had better feednecka for these (no picture though….).

Final Thoughts: It’s quirky and weird, a blend between a Spyder and an Autococker. It’s a fun shooter and has earned a little more time in my collection. Just need to figure out how to stuff a battery in the grip properly.