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BKO LPR options

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    BKO LPR options

    Well, looking for a B2K I ended up with a BKO in kind of rough shape. I got it functional but even after a rebuild it seems inconsistent and honestly, I would like to mess with it a bit. It's a Gen 2 (I think) with the built in LPR next to the reg and while I have been looking around I can't find a way to do a drop in replacement of the LPR. It looks like there were some adapters back in the day but I can't find much info and no stock anywhere. So I kind of see my options as:

    1. Find an adapter that facilitates this - any leads?
    2. Redneck engineer an adapter that I can thread in and tap to accept an LPR. Assuming I would have to drill the tray to run the air hose, or similar - Does anyone know the thread size for the stock LPR? I'm guessing the problem is that it's not a common size but that's just a guess at this stage.
    3. Gut the existing LPR and tap it as above. Seems doable, I'm just hesitant to destroy the LPR since part supply is low and I may want to return to stock at some point. Unless someone happens to have an old one kicking around?
    4. Basically the same as 3 but tap the volumizer at the front (kind of like an impulse I think) and cap the stock LPR. Same issue though, hate to mess with parts that aren't readily available.

    Thoughts, experience, solutions?

    On a side note, if anyone has an actual B2K they are willing to part with please let me know. Thanks!

    #2
    Depends on which version of BKO. Small LPR behind the HPR version? I don't know of any aftermarket replacements for that version. The only thing that comes to mind without permanent mods would be running a cocker LPR out of the gauge port and run your hose (I think it runs a hose from the LPR to the solenoid right?) through the LED hole in the tub. It would at least let you confirm it as an LPR issue.

    Comment


      #3
      Correct regarding the stock LPR. Apparently some adapters were produced but I think it's been a while 😂
      ​
      That's a solid option to troubleshoot it but I am pretty much rolling with "permanently" replacing it if possible. I would just like to do it as (reasonably) nondestructively as possible considering stock parts availability.

      Thanks!

      Comment


        #4
        Long shot, but have you tried contacting ICD or possibly AKA? I believe they had an option for ICD guns but I don't recall. Both companies are still around although I hear to leave extra response time for Jared at AKA. Godspeed!
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        • nicmauro
          nicmauro commented
          Editing a comment
          I haven't but it's definitely worth a shot, thanks!

        • Myrkul

          Myrkul

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I just picked up a B2k LPR of AKA, so he might have some options for you, but be patient with him.

        • nicmauro
          nicmauro commented
          Editing a comment
          I was kind of dragging my feet on that and tried to a few longshot fittings but I think I'll just bite the bullet and do that, thanks.

        #5
        Zenitram made a BKO Vert ASA adapter that enabled the BKO to run an Autococker LPR.

        You might try asking for one in the ICD Facebook group, but chances that anyone who has one is willing to part with it are exceptionally low. Zenitram parts are hens teeth.

        Comment


        • nicmauro
          nicmauro commented
          Editing a comment
          I think that place is pretty much a ghost town at this point but yeah, I would imagine they are mostly either installed and not willing to be parted with or sitting in an attic. I mean, finding a BKO for parts and gutting/tapping the LPR is probably more likely, if inelegant. I have some feelers out to get an official size on the threads (5/16?) and found some plugs that might fit but none of them are low cost (at least low enough for random experimentation) and are mostly brass which isn't ideal.

          I am considering malding in some epoxy with a release agent then tapping with 1/8 npt to at least test it out but again, not really ideal 😂

        • Myrkul

          Myrkul

          commented
          Editing a comment
          There are two Facebook groups for ICD owners. One of them has pretty much gone off-line, but the other group is still pretty active and gets a few post a week, and is generally helpful and friendly albeit a bit small. Sam Smock ("Goldie" of Vaporworks) is still active in it.

          In full agreement that all of the parts are on builds not willing to be parted out or in attics though. The only Zenitram part I've seen for sale in the last five years was a z frame on a shopgoodwill BKO that eventually made its way here. Not sure who has it currently though.

        • nicmauro
          nicmauro commented
          Editing a comment
          Ah, I must be on the slow FB group then, I will search for the other one, thanks. I did reach out to ICD to try and get info on threading. I got a response but have not actually gotten the info.

          I may just try to form a plug out of epoxy and tap it. Not the most elegant solution I realize but might get it running until a more.permanent option presents it's self...

        #6
        I had this one for several years that had this done to it. I don't recall anywhere on the ASA for an LPR though so it may have been made specifically like that.Click image for larger version  Name:	1EA8FEF4-BF8D-425F-8430-9219E9198B0D.jpg Views:	0 Size:	4.22 MB ID:	514090

        Comment


          #7
          Originally posted by nicmauro View Post
          4. Basically the same as 3 but tap the volumizer at the front (kind of like an impulse I think) and cap the stock LPR. Same issue though, hate to mess with parts that aren't readily available.
          Do not do this. That volumizer is for the valve chamber & that is what needs to stay at 225psi. The air for the LPR needs to run through the front block and tray to the ram. That is the air that gets regulated. You do not want to mess with the air in the valve chamber.

          As mentioned, Zenitram made a VA that allowed for cocker LPRs, but those are scarce. Been looking for a long while myself.
          Another option that was suggested to me a while back was to drill/tap the existing LPR for a cocker LPR. It'd mount vertically directly into the VA, right behind the foregrip/in front of the trigger guard. I've never done this myself, so I'm not sure how well that'd work. There's also the external air line that'd have to go into the VA/tray. I'm not sure how this would need to be done.
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          • nicmauro
            nicmauro commented
            Editing a comment
            Huh, but isn't that basically what an impulse, B2K or even later BKOs do? The lprs are all directly fed off of the air chamber... I think? Or I'm totally missing something, as usual 😂

            Not saying I am really looking at this option, just seems odd...

          • glaman5266
            glaman5266 commented
            Editing a comment
            The LPR has a tube running from it to the solenoid/ram. In this case, that hose barb comes from the rear of the VA block & runs through the tray. The LPR knocks down the pressure used to operate the solenoid/ram.

            The LPR does not knock down the pressure that goes up through the valve & bolt and out the barrel. That’s the job of the HPR.

            IIRC, the HPR should be set to 200-250 PSI & the LPR starts to bleed off at 110 or 120 PSI (therefore it operates at lower than that). Bump your HPR to 225-250 PSI & bump up your LPR to velocity. BKOs are kinda weird in that the velocity is governed by the LPR. The force of the ram hitting the valve determines velocity while the pressure in the valve chamber remains constant. Think of the LPR like a spring in the back of a Spyder.

          #8
          Huh. I was adjusting velocity using the HPR as that's the way the B2K manual states, just assumed it was the same... Guess I should have read the manual here too. Thanks for the info!

          Comment


          • glaman5266
            glaman5266 commented
            Editing a comment
            I mean, you CAN adjust it via the HPR, but the BKO manual specifically states that you should adjust it via the LPR. And I’d rather avoid recharge issues, so I follow the manual.
            With anything ICD-related, I follow the manual. Yeah, I’m no rebel, lol.

            My guess is it’s because it’s a FASOR, and as such it does not use the LPR air for the ram/bolt return. So it kinda makes sense to run it the way the manual states. I dunno, I just do what it says and it works.
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