Cat frame pins extraction help

[BrickHaus]

Hey guys. I'm trying to fully disassemble this cat to send it to get anodized, and between the feed neck screws, and these last trigger pins, I'm stuck.

The feedneck I can figure out, that should just take heat and the right T handle Allen. I haven't stripped the screws yet they just don't want to move.


The frame. I have/had a gunsmihing punch kit. I used that to punch out both the detent pin, and the rearmost sear spring anchor pin. But I've essentially wrecked a few of my punches trying to get this dowel(?) pin out And the slightly larger roller pin that the sear rides on.

I also noticed there is a blind hole on the passanger side, but i dont really see a hex broach in there so I'm not sure if that's another roll pin, or if that's a set screw.

As for the " dowel" pin. I juiced both of these with chain lube as it's all I have. It's helped in other stuck hardware situations. And I this pin from the driver side first enough to deform my punch. It didn't seem to budge. Hit it from the other side and same same.

is this pin tapered? I assumed it was a dowel. And anyone have any tips on getting it out short of a good soak, and a whack?

the roll pin is the same thing. I can try to drill it out and or cut a tap into it to pull, but I'm hoping it'll just slide tonight after having lube on it for a day. Any other suggestions?

Please help this caveman modder.

[capitalpaintball]

I have removed them many times. they are not tapered and come out either side. usually just give it a real good wack. The blind hole one is a bitch, you need to slide it out from the inside, usually destroying it in the process.

[autococker04]

Is the frame plastic or metal? Could you heat it up and try to melt any sort of adhesive that someone might have put in there?

[BrickHaus]

It's all aluminum hence why I wanna anodize this beast. I'll heat it again tonight. Last night I heated the feedneck. But I didn't wanna strip the heads trying last night.

[autococker04]

Doh! Why would you need the pin out of a plastic frame for anodizing

[Jackson]

I haven't removed the pin in the blind hole on mine, but I have removed the larger pin. As capitalpaintball said, it is not tapered. It is a standard off-the-shelf dowel pin. You might want to try pressing it out (using a press or bench vise) rather than hammering it.

[RichM]

I had the same issue on a couple of my ICD guns, I found that for whatever reason the pins can get really stuck in these things... one of mine even had a slightly distorted lower body from where a previous owner had tried to hammer out the pin. I also ended up bending a few of my punches trying to tap them out... I found the metal in the punch set I was using was not hard enough to take the force required to push the pins out, so I cut down some drill bits and used those to press the pins out. If you don't have a press handy, use a c-clamp and take some wood plank or plywood and cut a small hole in it to create a void for the pin to get pushed into while allowing that side of the clamp to sit over the pin hole, use a cut down drill bit as the 'press' punch, just make sure you wear safety glasses. You can take the wood to the gun body with electrical tape and then clamp the body in a vise or secure it to something while you work the c-clamp, you'll need two hands. Once you break the pin free and it moves a couple of mm you can punch it out normally. Good luck!

[Myrkul]

I'll usually use a tapered nail punch to break it free with a hammer, then for finishing nails of the appropriate diameter with the point chopped off to try and and get most of them started. It's important they are a really short length to prevent them from bending, usually I have 2 or 3 different lengths. Once the tension pins have even a little bit of them sticking through you can "pinch" them with wire cutters and gently pry them out. The pinch is important because they are tension pins, you squeeze them a bit and they slide easily. For the larger roller pin, yah, just steady hands and a robust nail punch. I also have a large hole drilled in my shop table specifically for punching pins through.

[BrickHaus]

Thanks for all the tips!! I got everything but the blind holed one at this point. Best I can get a grab on it with is a side cutters and it's not moving.

I'll make some nail and or drill bit pins for later use. I may also buy the arbor press to put this back together with less chance to Mar the ano.

But here are my gunsmithing, and eventually my steel drift punches from my work toolbox that all died in the process. Ive worked with rollpins before, and these mfers were more stuck than usual.

I wish the blind one wasn't so small. I've had luck carefully tapping the ID of roll pins, threading a bolt in, and slide hammering out, but this thing would likely take a tiny tap that would just snap off inside.

I'll be fiddling with this for a bit.

[Toestr]

Bruh. Were those proper roll pin punches with the nub on the end?

[BrickHaus]

No . They were all square ended. The brass ones are gunsmithing punches specifically. I honestly haven't ever seen the roll pin specific ones til I just searched them now.