I have an icdu rammer. The shaft is thicker than the stock hammer to add weight and to have a large enough face to reliably strike the valve. I think you will have to bore out the stock housing to some extent. If I can find my calipers I’ll grab some measurements and weight.
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ICD Lasoya Promaster - build thread
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Originally posted by INpaintballer View PostI have an icdu rammer. The shaft is thicker than the stock hammer to add weight and to have a large enough face to reliably strike the valve. I think you will have to bore out the stock housing to some extent. If I can find my calipers I’ll grab some measurements and weight.
In other news, I machined the first prototype Promaster-Laz valve. I don't have air to test it, but all of the oring fits seem reasonable.
I did attempt to retain the 111 bumper oring but made the retention lip too small. It should affect the operation of the valve though, especially if I'm gonna be using this with a smaller diameter ICDU-esque rammer.
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Originally posted by Myrkul View PostSo....is there going to be a pre-order for those Promaster compatible Lazarus valves? Because I'm definitely interested....
I'll be sending latches this first valve body and a couple hammers to test so we'll see how these work. It seems a slightly longer hammer will be needed to avoid having the bolt pin strike the gun body but these hammers are super simple to make. I would have to order some stainless steel to make these but a lighter aluminum hammer may work with this valve, which would be great.
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Laz valve body and couple hammer options (lightweight aluminum and slight-heavier-than-stock steel) ready to be sent off to latches109 for testing. I don't have any SS of this size on hand, so the heavy hammer is plain carbon steel and may start to rust but I'm hoping the aluminum hammer is the way to go.
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Glad to see that promaster is getting a refresh
The drift kit I traded him on the other hand, Turns out the pump arms are very different. It's been sitting in a bin until I can order a few parts
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Those are great, thanks! If I had a mill, I might try making a totally new ram housing, but that becomes difficult with just a lathe. So I probably won't build something exactly like this, but this design also points out a flaw in my idea. You have a ram guide here that may be crucial to prevent the ram from pivoting around too much when fully extended, since this (and my) hammer are smaller in OD and aren't guided in the body itself.
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I think I've found a reasonable solution to the rammer guide issue. Since I have the room to extend the rammer backwards (omitting the spring back there), I can add a Delrin spacer/bumper/centering guide to keep the rammer from wobbling when fully extended.
I've also discovered that an Empire Sniper/Ressy bolt fits well in the bore of the Promaster body but is a little too long (valve port seems to be in approx the right spot), so I have one on order that I'll trim down to fit. If there's enough material, I may cut features into the tip to add a soft tip from an Axe bolt I have lying around.
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I wouldn't bother with a soft tip bolt. For B2K's and pro-masters, what they really need is "o" rings to prevent blowback up the feedneck, and then a ramp to not clip tiny paint.
I have like 20 cases through blind bushmasters that have a ramped bolt, and have yet to have a chop or barrel break, and the field paint is 0.675.
If you can't find a vapor bolt with "o" rings, there is also Alamo city 3-"o" ring bolts for bushmasters and pro-masters, or BMC can add "o" rings and a top ramp to your stock bolt for $45.
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HOW AM I JUST FINDING THIS THREAD?!
That said. Super interested and willing to help out however I can. Testing, maybe purchasing an lpr cap to help fund further R&D, offering general ICD knowledge and shitty suggestions. You know, whatever.
I have a yellow fade lasoya begging for some love.
Edit to add: we have a new mill coming this year at work that I'm sure will need some testing. Might be able to talk the shop supervisor into running some parts on it.
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Originally posted by latches109 View Post
It's also possible the pressure needed to overcome the bolt & ram drag is already in excess of the pressure needed to open the valve in either situation though. I always prefer polished vapor bolts in my ICD electros for exactly this reason. The "o" rings ensure it seals, and the polished Nylatron is SO damn smooth.
It's also really important to polish the ram shaft as much as possible, at least on B2K's. I've had great results using quad "o" rings in the rams too, but nothing really seems like it improves the shot quite as much as having "o" rings on the bolt and the polishing job on the bolt.Last edited by Myrkul; 09-29-2024, 11:19 PM.
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Originally posted by tyronejk View PostInteresting. No change in velocity (compared to stock valve + hammer) with either the steel or aluminum hammers I sent you?
Myrkul i have quad orings I can test. Polishing I'll save for later, and run it as a separate test.
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