ICD lever stripped socket head set screw fix.

[Chuck E Ducky]

So I a few of the lever changer issues I have run into with leaks are created by the top Asa piercing pin assembly loosen up due to over Torquing the socket head set screws that hold it to the body of the lever changer. The set screws are 6/32 x 3/16 long. This allows the top to get pushed out of range to get the proper throw needed for a good seal. The channel the set screw sits in will take a larger diameter set screw. This keeps the ASA piece from moving and because it’s a tighter fit lock into the channel with a better tolerance so it doesn’t need nearly the amount of torque to hold the piece in place and not move when a 12g is leverage into it.

I just drilled and tapped the existing holes out for an 8-32 x 3/16 even found some stainless ones on Amazon. Should be here Wednesday. For now the 5/16 length ones are just place holders.

I was going to add 2 more so it held with 4 total but the two larger diameter ones work perfectly. So if you are having issues with leaks with various 12g and it’s not the piercing pin seal. It’s likely the body screws are stripped out.

[RedLeaderSB]

Nice idea
my current list of mods includes a stainless shim stock ring under the clamp screws so it doesn’t dig into the AL as much.
I also swapped screws to something with a larger head, made a longer pill shaped linkage, and shimmed the spring inside the moving pierce assy for more clamp on the cartridge.

[Chuck E Ducky]

So a temporary fix is to drop a cup seal in behind the spring. But I was able to remove that after I got the top ASA piercing pin Assembly to sit tight to the lever body. I also sharpened up the piercing pin so it took less force to puncture the 12g. I think this helps with the sealing force applied on the face seal.

[DocsMachine]

[...]even found some stainless ones on Amazon

-It's worth noting that stainless fasteners are NOT stronger than the black-oxide steel. They are in fact notably weaker.

You use stainless for it's anticorrosion nature, not for strength.

Generally speaking- there are exceptions- but the typical stainless stuff you get from Amazon or McMaster, unless you special order "high strength"- and pay appropriately- you're basically getting the equivalent of Grade 2. Standard black oxide stuff is typically Grade 5.

If it's a case where you're already stripping out the black stuff, stainless will generally only make it worse.

Doc.

[Chuck E Ducky]

The socket head set screw is threaded directly into aluminum. It wasn’t the socket head striping out it’s the body’s aluminum threads. I guess if your really waned to get crazy you could red lock some stainless threaded insert into the aluminum body like CCI dose for there phantom bodies. I don’t believe it’s necessary. I mainly went with stainless because that’s what was available in the size I needed and it’s rust resistant. The aluminum body will surely strip before the grub screw they are tiny and only have a hand full of threads making contact with the aluminum body. The nice thing about the larger ones is it can be pretty loose and still stay tight because the larger grub screw fills the locking channel now. It’s basically got to be tight enough to create enough friction not to spin now versus holding the collar in place against the lever action of the 12g. The Fatter 8/32 sit against the lil lip on the changers collar now so it can not move away from the 12g face under pressure now. A common issue with them from being over tightened or not having the Asa/piercing pin assembly tight with the body after re orientation of the lever for different markers. The larger diameter set screw forces it to stay tight now.

[BrickHaus]

Mines come loose a few times. I'll try this.

[Frmrspec]

If you're going through all that trouble why not use a dome head screw... it can only tighten up until it hits the OD of the body, hell you could get real fancy and turn down the tip of the screw to fit perfectly in that channel and not "dig in" at all..