Build log - my first B2K

[lhamilton1807]

I got this B2K4 in a box of random paintball bits. Sold most of the rest (two ProFlex masks more than paid for all the parts for this project). Decided I wanted this B2K4 PDS for my collection.

Condition/Notes:

1. stock barrel included. A/C threads for this model - yay!
2. no HPR or ASA included - I slapped a black Empire HPR on matched the ano well!
3. included was an extra stock LPR and stock valve
4. ano is pretty nice!
5. Stock board and trigger
6. one switch is broken, and the previous owner tried to solder a bunch of stuff to one switch

Many steps that I follow here will follow Myrkul’s Zombie Lachesis thread. If I mention I followed his steps, I won’t post much here to avoid redundancy.

Steps to recovery:

1. Gather parts
2. polish & rebuild the ram & valve
3. Rebuild the LPR
4. Fix the wiring & replace the board
5. Vapor trigger install
6. Replace the feed neck & gauge & install bottomline
7. Bolt machining

[OpusX]

Good to see Myrkul evil plan to get more of these back on the field is working. Good luck with the build.

[Myrkul]

Soon it shall live!!! Muwhahaha!!!

[lhamilton1807]

I’m very much looking forward to this build and the final result. Rebuilding the grandfather of stacked tube poppets gives a very grounding and exciting feeling in my gut.

[lhamilton1807]

*Gather Parts*

From ICD:

1. Minor rebuild
2. Clamping feedneck

From Vapor Works

1. Chaos board
2. Vapor trigger

From Digikey:

1. Two Molex 0511100850-06-A-6-Y-ND wire assemblies to rob wires from

From eBay:

1. two switches to replace power and PDS switches
2. CP gloss black rail

From the parts bins:

1. gloss black Empire HPR
2. gloss black CP asa
3. orings, sandpaper, mag wheel polish cream

[scottieb]

Wait. ICD has rebuild kits in stock?

[lhamilton1807]

They did a year ir two ago when I bought this kit 😁

[lhamilton1807]

*Rebuild Ram & Sleeve*
Used a torch to separate the ram head from the shaft. Thankfully no one had used pliers in the past, so I applied 800 - 2500 grit sandpaper and then mag wheel polish to get them nice & shiny.

The poppet shaft was polished in a similar fashion, and the two-oring valve was given a polish in the poppet shaft hole with a qtip and mag wheel polish. The valve had been lightly mangled near the oring slot by a misaligned set screw, which I carefully ground down with needle files.

Everything was washed with soap & water, then cleaned with rubbing alcohol for good measure.

Reassembled with new seals, blue loctite, and added an 011 in the back of the sleeve to account for modern paint.

[lhamilton1807]

*Rebuild LPR*

Beyond o-ring and spring swaps, I just put the stock LPR back as it is. My dremel press doesn’t have the ability to do fancy angles, so extra porting will have to wait.

[lhamilton1807]

*Fix Wiring & Swap in Chaos Board*

[lhamilton1807]

*Feedneck, trigger, bottomline, and gauge replacement*

Vapor trigger is installed



The wiring actually isn’t cracked or brittle so I think this had a repair attempted or maybe the 2004 version just didn’t have the brittle wiring issue? One switch is broken and the other had cables fall off.


I’ve got it wired up! The noid clicks and the switches work. But the eyes seem to be broken. Can’t get them to not sense that there’s a ball. The emitter (clear LED) won’t put out any light - it’s supposed to, right? i put the contacts of an LED from my Arduino kit across the leads and it lights up when the switches is engaged (or not, if it’s turned off), so there’s voltage there and the wiring is correct. Do I need new eyes, or is there other t-shooting I should do?

[lhamilton1807]

Edit: if the diode emits IR, then the sensor definitely doesn’t see any with the way I’ve got them scrambled about. Will line them up and see.

The wiring diagram says they’re “Fairchild” diodes. May be able to find some replacements on the interwebz if I can’t get these to work.

https://www.indiancreekdesigninc.com/s/Wiring.pdf

Original comment:
I’ll try the dark room & camera method tonight. The leads to the emitter (clear) eye were soldeee on backwards so I had to re-solder that. The tape is there just to hold the unshrunk tube in place to prevent shorts

Everything else seems to be working so I may just assemble and air up just to hear it roar for the first time

[Myrkul]

Go for it! If you can pre-set the regs, 250 on the HPR, 65 on the LPR. If the eyes are cashed you can just run it blind. I have 5 B2Ks and only one of them has PDS....and it's my least favorite one. A rotor plus the bolt mod should take care of the 99% of ball breakage issues.

[lhamilton1807]

Fiddled with it some more and got the eyes to work with both the stock and Chaos boards. Will assemble tonight and air it up tomorrow.

[lhamilton1807]

*Bolt modification*

Out for machining - will post here when it returns.

[lhamilton1807]

Assembled! Just need to air it up & test, then send the bolt off for modification.