Spyder Compact Re-cocking issues

[shadow191]

So a while back on old forums had posted questions about getting old Spyder Compact up and running. Original issue was that it wouldn't reliably cycle - did for about 50 shots after replacing o-rings then stopped. Thought issue was that I had incorrect o-ring on striker as I needed the one for fatty. Another member was generous enough to send me some of his spare o-rings and I thought that fixed it. After swapping, I tested and was able to fire about half a hopper and then dry fire dozens of more times. It cycled just fine even without paint. Using HPA, I was able to shoot until tank dropped to 500psi which is much lower than I expected. Figured everything was fixed.

Took it out to field a few weeks back and shot another half hopper over chrono to test and everything continued to work. Then a few days ago, decided to play with it and it started having issues again. It would fire but only cycled if you fired slowly. As soon as you upped rate of fire, it wouldn't recock. Then it stopped cycling even firing slowly. Tank was full and it's high pressure reg so ~850psi.

Thoughts? No idea why it would work for a little after swapping o-rings and then just stop. Very weird that it would cycle down to 500psi right after swapping striker o-ring and now it won't cycle at 850psi a few hundred shots later. Nothing appears to be damaged inside, no leaks. Shoots 280fps just fine and is consistent.

[scottieb]

Worn sear or hammer possibly.

[Interl0per]

How far is your velocity adjuster turned in? Is the main spring guide in? Tried a different main spring? This design tends to go 'full-auto' if there's a sear/hammer problem although I wouldn't definitely say that couldn't be the problem, the hammer/bolt just sticks forward and you have to recock? Have you checked the bolt o-rings? Just some further things I'd check.

[Interl0per]

Another thought that just occurred to me, I wonder if your air setup is providing enough volume, it takes a lot of air to recock those old blowbacks, valve might be starving.

[DavidBoren]

You said that the striker O-ring is good. Ok, good place to start.

Make sure all the stupid brass screen filters have been removed from the gas line. There's one in the bottomline ASA a lot of times. And sometimes in the gas-thru grip, as well. They are restrictive garbage.

When using HPA, it is advisable to file a 2nd blowback slot on the valve stem. Just mirror the existing flat on the opposite side of the valve stem.

Get a delrin bolt. I'm not kidding. Sometimes the old aluminum bolt is too heavy (or something), and doesn't behave with HPA. I found that lightweight bolts often solve the dry-firing problems... how sometimes the marker won't cycle without paint loaded.

Plug the vent in the bottom of the body. It is between the screw that holds the valve in place, and the slot for the sear. You can use JB Weld, a set screw/plug, or just electrical tape.

[Tarsun2]

Does this have an adjustable reg on it or is it a gas through grip?

The fact that it did work and then stopped working means that something has changed over time. (not likely to be something like the striker bumper to be in the wrong location). Notching the valve pin and plugging the lower tube hole will help for sure but probably not the cause of the issue either.
If it worked while firing slow, there is an air re-charge issue. Take out the filters as stated above.

Are you using steel braided line or macro line?

does it have a sight rail ontop?

[OpusX]

Since we're looking at a "worked, now it doesnt" situation as Tarsun said, something changed. Have you checked the valve pin and cupseal to make sure it hasn't come loose?

[shadow191]

It's never really consistently worked, works fine for testing but then issue pops back up. Will try to provide chronological order

• Brother finds his Spyder Compact from '97 and hands it to me to fix. I replace all o-rings as they're melted. Also install gas through grip and braided line from Spyder Imagine I had laying around.
• Test with HPA tank and put ~50 shots through it with a string in the middle so it seems to be working perfectly.
• 1 week later take it to field and at the chrono, it started having issues. It would stutter and recock for a few shots then it stopped recocking and just acted like when you run out of air.
• Take it home, disassemble everything and it all looks fine. Remove grip and attach tank directly to VASA to see if it was grip/hose. Still won't recock.
• Find out on old forum that there is fatty o-ring which is different than what I put on there (used Imagine o-ring kit). A member kindly sent me some spares.
• After installation, I put grip back on and shot half a hopper through it. Then dry fired a bunch of times to see if it would recock without paint. It did and I shot tank down to 500psi before it stopped recocking. So everything seems fine.
• 1 week later, take it to field and at the chrono shot another hopper through it and all is well.
• 2 weeks later, back at field and as soon as we fire a couple of shots realize that something is wrong. Same issue as before, stutter then it stops recocking.

What I can't figure out is why it works great right after replacing striker o-ring and works great through testing but then something seems to happen when it sits for a short period. I thought it would be fine the 2nd time given we shot a hopper through it over 2 separate days but then same problem.

I did check valve and replace cupseal when I first got it as it was leaking slightly down barrel. Velocity adjuster is most of the way in and I haven't changed springs yet but have a spare set.

When I first got it I had to clean out a ton of residue from inside gun due to melted o-rings. Pretty sure I got it all but could that cause problems? It really doesn't feel like a very smooth action when pulling cocking knob back. Much stickier than on the Imagine. It's lubed and everything but action still feels stiff.

And appreciate all the help. Just want to get this up and running for nostalgia.

[DavidBoren]

There are literally only so many things that can possibly go wrong, and if you have replaced the O-rings, then we can move on past that.

Is the inside of the top and bottom tube clean?

Is the valve in backwards? Big hole goes towards the front, small hole towards the striker.

Try replace both the valve spring and mainspring with the weakest spring for each in a kit.

Try filing a 2nd blowback flat on the valve stem.

Fill the vent in the bottom.

Put Teflon tape on the valve retention screw.

Put a delrin bolt in it.

[shadow191]

Took it apart again today. Replaced main spring with spare I had. Also inspected striker again and noticed that it had some buildup on there. Looks like old o-ring but it was a film that had hardened. Before this I spent a lot of time cleaning out the tubes but didn't notice the striker buildup - had to scrape it off. Shot another 100 through it and all seems well again. Will check again tomorrow and keep testing to see if this fix holds. Wonder if residue was causing striker to stick.

Now it won't recock without paint anymore. One thing at a time I suppose. Will work my way through the other suggestions if it goes down again.

Speaking of bolts, which are compatible? Anything side cocking?

[Tarsun2]

wow, that was a pretty decent write up of events. lol allot of info there.

When i got a spyder that was never maintained, i would completely strip it down and soak it in hot soapy water and used a tooth brush and some cleaned to clean it out. Such a pain and took forever on really bad ones. Clean, dry, inspect, repeat... some of that crud is realllllly on there, and not noticeable when wet.

Maybe after you cleaned it, you got almost all of it, but then after cycling the marker and adding a bit of friction/heat, some of the residual liquefied o-rings start to smear again, and then from sitting for a week, begin to solidify again.... (possibly lol)

IDK, as stated above, there's only so many things to go wrong on these.

[shadow191]

Haha, I like details. My job involves business process optimization and strategy so lots of thinking through root cause for problems. Probably bleeds over into other things.

[OpusX]

Build up? What type of lube are you using?

[shadow191]

Whatever lube comes with Planet Eclipse, had some of that laying around. Think the build up was from old liquified o-rings though. It's dark so very hard to see on striker - don't think it's the lube. When I first got the gun, all the parts inside were sticky so cleaned all that up but didn't notice that some of it had hardened so missed it.

Letting it sit for a few more days and will test again.

[OpusX]

Whatever lube comes with Planet Eclipse...

So that makes me assume Dow33 grease. With all of my old markers I use oil only, such as Gold Cup. Makes me wonder if grease is too viscus with the STBB. Just a though.

[MrKittyCatMeowFace]

So that makes me assume Dow33 grease. With all of my old markers I use oil only, such as Gold Cup. Makes me wonder if grease is too viscus with the STBB. Just a though.

Yeah i use just gold cup on everything. Threads like this make me feel better about the stbb i could never get running. Sometimes these markers are assholes and just keep going down or have the same issue and can't figure it out. Hurts your pride a bit when you cant figure out a spyder XD