Spyder Compact Re-cocking issues

[shadow191]

I used Gold Cup at first but swapped to grease. May swap back next time. Recocking issues happened with both though.

[OpusX]

I used Gold Cup at first but swapped to grease. May swap back next time. Recocking issues happened with both though.

Well poo. I'll go with the "there's still jellied oring gunk in there" theory then.

[DavidBoren]

Make sure the valve retention screw is not screwed in so far that it interferes with the valve stem.

Make sure the bolt doesn't stick in the barrel.

Make sure the bolt isn't upside down... I have seen this happen more often on Autocockers than Spyders, but it is still a possibility with some Spyder bolts.

Remove the bumper from the mainspring... this is to eliminate possible points of binding. If the bumper is too thin, it can turn and pinch the spring. If it is too thick, it can keep the striker from reliably engaging the sear.

Remove the detent and detent cover... maybe it is binding with the bolt, or the screws to the cover are too long or threaded in too far. Who knows? Eliminate it as a possibility for right meow. The thing should be able to cycle without paint, so you can install the detent once we get it working.

Have you plugged the bottom vent and filed a 2nd blowback slot on the valve stem, yet?

[Seajay]

You don't want to plug the bottom hole/vent. The purpose of that is to vent the gas behind the valve in between the striker. The only valve you can do this with is the Rocket Valve as it is open to the channel. The gas will otherwise create a pressure pocket and the striker will hit it like a pillow causing cycling issues.

After changing all the o-rings and doing a good cleaning it should shoot. Use oil on all the o-rings.

If you are using another braided line from another older gun check it for the brass filter. It doesn't usually cause issues but worth taking out and trying without it.

Some really old spyders work best with Co2. You can grab a newer valve, the EkO valve works great, to shoot better on HPA.

[Tarsun2]

I'm all out of ideas at this point aside from hardware being too long / missing washers and pinching the bolt. but that should be pretty noticeable lol
ive seen ALLOT of "spring platforms"(?) <<<the little black piece that goes behind, and in the main spring, get jammed up in the back cap by the 2 side retaining screws... this would be obvious the 1st time you take it apart or put it back together though.

is the valve body brass screw too tight / too loose (?)

I doubt its the braided line or the filter since the problem is still present when the tank is connected directly to the Vert ASA.






Is the tank reg good?

[shadow191]

Leading theory seems to be the buildup on striker right now. After scraping it off, things got smoother. No parts inside are missing and nothing appears damaged.

I did remove filter from the grip and line works fine on other Spyder. And to your point, screwing tank into VASA didn't help. Also have swapped between 3 separate tanks so shouldn't be reg.

Thanks again everyone for suggestions. If problem continues will work down the list and start slotting/filing things.

[Interl0per]

Hell Tom Kaye couldn't figure out a blowback so he invented the Automag

[VonBraun63]

Not sure if you fixed this but your valve body is most likely in backwards. Big hole faces forward and small hole faces striker. If it’s in backwards it does exactly what you are describing.

[shadow191]

Slight update, after letting it sit for a week, I aired it up to test again. Put another 50 balls through without issue so I'm cautiously optimistic. The action of the bolt is much smoother now after cleaning the striker - before it felt like it was getting stuck when pulling the cocking knob back. So maybe it was just the buildup causing things to stick.