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    Sear pins

    Hey does anyone have a Spyder MR5 or MRX and an older model spyder trigger frame handy (like any mech spyder up until the VS series)? I want to know if the sear roll pin is the same size (diameter and length) between these guns. I'm talking about the pin that runs through the middle of the sear.

    Thanks!
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    #2
    Anyone? Trying to verify proper pin size so I can order some replacements.

    Or has anyone sized them out and gets suitable replacements for them from say McMaster Carr or the like and care to share the part number?
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      #3
      i used to have a bunch in my desk but they were tossed.
      Just get a cheap Harbor Freight micrometer and spec it out.

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        #4
        Ya, I started by trying to find a match for the locking teeth on McMaster Carr but couldnt find anything worth taking a shot at. Once I found that out, I was planning on getting the calipers.

        the dims are the easy part, lol

        Point being; ANS gear has the MR5/X pins for .95 a piece but the part number is different from the old spyders. The old spyder part number was like $4.95. I’m cool buying pins at $1 a piece or say $10-15 for 100 from McMaster but I would use toothpicks before I drop $5 for only 1 pin.
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          #5
          ahh i hear ya.

          i believe the sizes are in fact different. (IIRC) between the older and newer triggers.
          this week ill have access to my old spyder bits.
          im sure i have pins, if not, i know i have spare triggers.

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            #6
            I currently don’t need spares but after figuring out a recocking issue was caused by a groove worn in a sear pin, it would be good to grab a few.
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              #7
              FYI:

              I looked high and low for various types of dowel pins but nothing came close to the correct size or locking type. Found out these are specifically called knurl or knurled pins.

              Sear pin appears to be an M3 x 20 mm knurl(ed) pin since the imperial measurements have no common size (fractional) equivalent and the diameter is SO close to 3 mm on the nose.

              Measurements I took across 3 pins:

              .117 in (2.98 mm) dia
              .774-.778 in (19.66-19.80 mm) length

              Teeth about (3mm) .117 length
              About (3.05-3.18 mm) .120-.125 in dia

              China seems to be the only place you can get these pins (not a shock). So I ordered 30 pcs from AliExpress (13.99 after tax, 9.99 w/$4 coupon code!). These are stainless steel too. When the slow boat arrives, I'll post an update with comparison pics and info.

              If these work, that is about .33 cents a pin with the coupon or .47 cents without. Not too shabby.
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                #8
                Just printed a lower for my Hammer 7 to do a shotgun mod. Also printed a new trigger. I just used a roll pin from a multipack from Harbor Freight (or was it from one of the big box stores?) Anyway, it was a quick drop in and it all works just fine. If you can't find any that will arrive fast enough, that will have to be your alternative.
                Fred aka ChoSanJuan
                Team: With Intent
                Paintball parts and 3D Printed items!
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                  #9
                  On like 99.9% of frames, I would find the largest pin that fits through the trigger/sear/whatever, and just buy that size roll pin or dowel... and the correct size drill bit. Ta-da, perfect fit pins!

                  But, to me, nothing is sacred. I will take a drill or Dremel to freaking anything. Lol.
                  If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
                  IGY6; 503.995.0257

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                    #10
                    I will definitely avoid using what is commonly called a roll pin (also a coil or spring pin). You know the rolled steel pin that is hollow inside?
                    For a sear in a semi (not pump) the constant action and pressure will likely wear or damage that style of pin quickly. No proof here, just my mind working. I could be wrong.

                    now a plain old steel or stainless solid dowel pin? I understand totally. I just like the locking mechanism of knurling. It gives me peace of mind knowing that I will not likely stretch the pin holes out unless I hammer a pin through the wrong way. Then I would have to go next size up but risk funky operation with the sear.
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                      #11
                      After I install the shims, preload the sear, and install the travel limiters... the frame could be welded together for all I care. So, I have absolutely no problem using more permanent solutions to secure dowel pins without the knurled end. Red Loctite, JB Weld, whatever works... the better fitment of using larger pins is worth it to me.

                      And roll pins are fine, as long as they are oriented in a way that the seam doesn't interfere with rotation of the trigger or sear. They are made from heat treated spring steel... I think they will be ok.
                      If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
                      IGY6; 503.995.0257

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                        #12
                        My pins arrived Wednesday! I will have to try them out this weekend.
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