Spyder Ball Detent Information
Attached is a zip file with OBJ files for the 2 piece rebuildable bearing detent, the old long and short nubbin detent covers, and a readme. Have at it!
This post will be updated with info as I gather it.
Purpose: Design 3D printable replacement ball detents for aging spyders. This includes the ball bearing style detent shown below. The intention for the bearing style was to also allow it to be rebuildable; delrin or metal bearing, differrent springs, etc.
General Specs:
Bearing Style Detent:
- Ball size: .250"
- Spring OD : .235"
- Spring ID: .200"
- Wire gauge/thickness:.016"
- Free state length: .270"
Old Long Style Nubbin Detent:
Short Style Nubbin Detent
Original post/question:
I need some measurements from a spyder detent. Specifically the kind with the ball bearing from the vertical feed guns. I'm looking for anyone who has an old junk one laying around that is willing to break the cap off of it and get me the spring dimensions.
I need: (provided by Rolling Thunder 67 from a Kingman BLS004 detent)
spring OD : .235"
spring ID: .200"
wire gauge/thickness:.016"
free state length: .270"
Thanks!
Update: Just got some spring stock in, cut and tested. I ran about 550 shots (no paint) through my Raven Nexion. The spring I cut is a little stiffer than stock, but this is also using a delrin ball. Here are some pics of what is designed in comparison to the stock detent.
The ball socket does not contact the bolt (as it shouldn't) and the screw used is an M4x.7 - 10 mm long. I used a stainless button head. Note: the stock screw will not work with this design because its way too short.
I have made some tweaks to the files since this was printed so lets call this V1. I still need to print V2. There is a small lip all around the top plate that aligns with a ledge in the base. That way is seats nicely. These printed tight enough that the pieces snap together and hold without the screw. That was not the intention, but a nice side effect. I don't know if this is material dependent and can't guarantee that it will occur on all prints (yes I will post the files in time) but all 6 I printed in PLA did this. I plan to print V2 in PETG for long term durability.
Update Feb-13-22:
My PETG printing issues have been figured out. I currently have a small set of test pieces. I chose 2 different spring stocks and cut and different coil counts.
I personally like the feel and function of the smaller coil springs (4 pieces to the right of the stock detent). There are a few more little things I need to work on, then I will offer up all of my info for people to make these.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update Feb-18-22:
The 3D printable detent files are posted. In the zip file is a readme. Here are the contents of that doc:
Printable Spyder Detent Info
Long and Short Detents: These use the standard spyder nubbins.
The stock screws can be used. M4x.7 - 6mm long.
An 8mm long screw will likely be too long.
These were successfully printed on a stock Ender 3 V2 with PETG and PLA.
100% scale
.2 or .16 layer height.
----------------------------
Newer Bearing Style Detents: These were designed so that they are rebuildable/serviceable.
These will require a longer screw, a ball bearing and a spring. If you have an old detent, you can reuse the ball and possibly the spring
but I didn't try it. The cap half has a small spring guide and recess for the spring. It should accommodate a very wide range of springs.
These were successfully printed on a stock Ender 3 V2 with PETG and PLA.
100% scale for both parts in PLA. With PETG I printed the cap at 101% for a slightly better fit. Experiment and have fun!
.2 or .16 layer height.
Parts:
Screw: M4x.7 - 10mm long
Bearing: .250 (1/4) inch
Spring: your preference
Bearing notes: I recommend sourcing delrin bearings. I purchased 50 of them from ebay for about $6 in Jan. 2022 from China. But you
should be able to get a steel or stainless one from your local hardware store easily enough. But I really do recommend the delrin ones.
That was the driving idea behind this design.
Spring notes: I purchased spring stock from McMcaster-Carr and cut them to length myself. This was by far the cheapest way I could do this
with anything more than 1 or 2 from random springs I could find. I wanted to make this repeatable for others.
I chose 2 different sizes to try.
Preferred Choice: Corrosion-Resistant Compression Spring Stock, 20" Long, 0.188" Od, 0.158" Id - McMaster PN: 9663K53
$7.02 for the 20" piece. (plus shipping)
I found cutting a piece with 5 full coils then closing the ends yielded a close to stock spring tension with this spring.
Cutting a piece with 6 full coils then closing the ends yielded a stiffer spring but not significantly stiffer. This might be beneficial
if you use a force feed loader.
Other choice: Corrosion-Resistant Compression Spring Stock, 20" Long, 0.25" Od, 0.22" Id - McMcaster PN: 9663K55
$7.54 for the 20" piece (plus shipping)
This is the maximum usable size for this design. I simply wanted to try it. I chose the same coil counts as the other spring
but when I closed the end that I intended to contact the bearing, I bent the end inward to help prevent jamming up the bearing.
You can feel the dragging of the spring on the bore wall. I'm not pleased with this option but it offers a comparable spring rate
at an appropriate length for the design.
To close the ends, you can google it for a visual reference. Basically hold the end of the coil down against the next coil with some small
needlenose pliers or tweezers then use a small torch or soldering iron to heat the last coil about 180° from the end of the coil for a few seconds.
This will relax the spring in that location so the end is "closed". This may take a few tries to get right. I hope this helps!
Attached is a zip file with OBJ files for the 2 piece rebuildable bearing detent, the old long and short nubbin detent covers, and a readme. Have at it!
This post will be updated with info as I gather it.
Purpose: Design 3D printable replacement ball detents for aging spyders. This includes the ball bearing style detent shown below. The intention for the bearing style was to also allow it to be rebuildable; delrin or metal bearing, differrent springs, etc.
General Specs:
Bearing Style Detent:
- Ball size: .250"
- Spring OD : .235"
- Spring ID: .200"
- Wire gauge/thickness:.016"
- Free state length: .270"
Old Long Style Nubbin Detent:
Short Style Nubbin Detent
Original post/question:
I need some measurements from a spyder detent. Specifically the kind with the ball bearing from the vertical feed guns. I'm looking for anyone who has an old junk one laying around that is willing to break the cap off of it and get me the spring dimensions.
I need: (provided by Rolling Thunder 67 from a Kingman BLS004 detent)
spring OD : .235"
spring ID: .200"
wire gauge/thickness:.016"
free state length: .270"
Thanks!
Update: Just got some spring stock in, cut and tested. I ran about 550 shots (no paint) through my Raven Nexion. The spring I cut is a little stiffer than stock, but this is also using a delrin ball. Here are some pics of what is designed in comparison to the stock detent.
The ball socket does not contact the bolt (as it shouldn't) and the screw used is an M4x.7 - 10 mm long. I used a stainless button head. Note: the stock screw will not work with this design because its way too short.
I have made some tweaks to the files since this was printed so lets call this V1. I still need to print V2. There is a small lip all around the top plate that aligns with a ledge in the base. That way is seats nicely. These printed tight enough that the pieces snap together and hold without the screw. That was not the intention, but a nice side effect. I don't know if this is material dependent and can't guarantee that it will occur on all prints (yes I will post the files in time) but all 6 I printed in PLA did this. I plan to print V2 in PETG for long term durability.
Update Feb-13-22:
My PETG printing issues have been figured out. I currently have a small set of test pieces. I chose 2 different spring stocks and cut and different coil counts.
I personally like the feel and function of the smaller coil springs (4 pieces to the right of the stock detent). There are a few more little things I need to work on, then I will offer up all of my info for people to make these.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update Feb-18-22:
The 3D printable detent files are posted. In the zip file is a readme. Here are the contents of that doc:
Printable Spyder Detent Info
Long and Short Detents: These use the standard spyder nubbins.
The stock screws can be used. M4x.7 - 6mm long.
An 8mm long screw will likely be too long.
These were successfully printed on a stock Ender 3 V2 with PETG and PLA.
100% scale
.2 or .16 layer height.
----------------------------
Newer Bearing Style Detents: These were designed so that they are rebuildable/serviceable.
These will require a longer screw, a ball bearing and a spring. If you have an old detent, you can reuse the ball and possibly the spring
but I didn't try it. The cap half has a small spring guide and recess for the spring. It should accommodate a very wide range of springs.
These were successfully printed on a stock Ender 3 V2 with PETG and PLA.
100% scale for both parts in PLA. With PETG I printed the cap at 101% for a slightly better fit. Experiment and have fun!
.2 or .16 layer height.
Parts:
Screw: M4x.7 - 10mm long
Bearing: .250 (1/4) inch
Spring: your preference
Bearing notes: I recommend sourcing delrin bearings. I purchased 50 of them from ebay for about $6 in Jan. 2022 from China. But you
should be able to get a steel or stainless one from your local hardware store easily enough. But I really do recommend the delrin ones.
That was the driving idea behind this design.
Spring notes: I purchased spring stock from McMcaster-Carr and cut them to length myself. This was by far the cheapest way I could do this
with anything more than 1 or 2 from random springs I could find. I wanted to make this repeatable for others.
I chose 2 different sizes to try.
Preferred Choice: Corrosion-Resistant Compression Spring Stock, 20" Long, 0.188" Od, 0.158" Id - McMaster PN: 9663K53
$7.02 for the 20" piece. (plus shipping)
I found cutting a piece with 5 full coils then closing the ends yielded a close to stock spring tension with this spring.
Cutting a piece with 6 full coils then closing the ends yielded a stiffer spring but not significantly stiffer. This might be beneficial
if you use a force feed loader.
Other choice: Corrosion-Resistant Compression Spring Stock, 20" Long, 0.25" Od, 0.22" Id - McMcaster PN: 9663K55
$7.54 for the 20" piece (plus shipping)
This is the maximum usable size for this design. I simply wanted to try it. I chose the same coil counts as the other spring
but when I closed the end that I intended to contact the bearing, I bent the end inward to help prevent jamming up the bearing.
You can feel the dragging of the spring on the bore wall. I'm not pleased with this option but it offers a comparable spring rate
at an appropriate length for the design.
To close the ends, you can google it for a visual reference. Basically hold the end of the coil down against the next coil with some small
needlenose pliers or tweezers then use a small torch or soldering iron to heat the last coil about 180° from the end of the coil for a few seconds.
This will relax the spring in that location so the end is "closed". This may take a few tries to get right. I hope this helps!
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