Announcement

**JeeperCreeper** · 01-23-2022, 05:41 PM

And you're probably gonna make me want one even more than I already do.

**Cdn_Cuda** · 01-23-2022, 05:49 PM

The Spyder Hammer 7 based on a classic Nelson design. So does this updated classic stand the test of time, or will if fade into history like parachute pants. Let's dig in and find out!

Overall a pretty simple design. You can change between mag-fed or hopper fed by loosening a bolt and twisting the barrel. We'll see this in detail in a post or two. Pump handle is secured on either side of the drivetrain and there is a single pump rod located below the barrel. The pump itself wraps around the barrel, meaning your favourite barrel might not fit. Again, we'll touch in this more shortly.

Separating the two have of the Hammer (upper and lower) is done removing two screws from the lowers. One located behind the grip frame the other located between the pump kit and the magwell. I removed the pump handle first, but it is not necessary to do so.

The rear bolt is the longer of the two bolts and holds the rear valve in place, as is common on other Nelsons.

**Cdn_Cuda** · 01-23-2022, 05:59 PM

Now before going too far ahead with the disassembly I want to circle back and look more at the pump handle: It's not particularly beautiful, nor well made. But hey, neither am I so I won't just too harshly. It's not bad in your hands and it grips well.

Here's the underneath view of the pump: Gives you an idea of the flare on the side of the connecting arms and the fact that more of this is plastic.

Here's effectively the side of the pump where the guide rod goes: Note it wraps around the barrel, using the barrel to provide some much needed stability for the pump. The Hammer 7 would definitely benefit from an additional stabilizer bar like a secondary pump rod often seen in cockers. And if we're going to make suggesting, throwing a ID-style bearing in the handle for smoothness would be nice, although so much of the pump feel is on the main spring it's not worth the effort.

And to finalize the view of the pump handle here's the overhead view: Nothings the handle is quite tight to the barrel (barrel is on the left for orientation). This helps with keeping the pump from moving around too much, but is a problem if you want to use better barrels.

**Cdn_Cuda** · 01-23-2022, 06:11 PM

So let's look and see how the pump arm design affects your barrel choice. I've sold most of my Spyder parts off to a friendly guy in Ontario, but thankfully I've got one Spyder threaded barrel kicking around, A big ol' Dye Stainless, which as you know is chunky. So let's what happens when I throw they Dye onto the Hammer 7:

Well that's problematic. I can't even get the barrel to threat in all the way. There's just too much girth. So no Dye love from the Hammer 7, at least with it's current setup. Here's the top view that gives a better perspective on just how narrow the barrel needs to be to fit. I'd be surprised if any two piece barrel would fit. So sadly no getting freaky with it.

Of course, the problem is solved by removing the pump kit and making the gun bolt action. Then you can run whatever barrel you feel like! Thankfully the did threat the pump rod and included a hex'd tip of it for easy removal. It's actually a little detail I did not expect given the overall build of the Hammer 7. Here you can also see the internal velocity adjustor side the bolt. The silver rod is the pump rod with a return spring that's just out of focus.

And just for context, here's the pump rod and return spring from the side view:

**Cdn_Cuda** · 01-23-2022, 06:14 PM

This brings us to one of the Hammer 7's fun party tricks, changing between hopper fed and mag fed. Now unfortunately the seller forgot to put the mag in the box, so I can't comment on the mag itself until it arrives. But I'll add an update once it does.

So the Hammer 7 has two feed options, standard centre-feed hopper of mag (with First Strike!). The feedneck is a stand style Spyder-style with two screws on either side of the body. Remove the screws, take off the feedneck. Not sure who designed it, but it's a big of a pain to get a screwdriver into the rear screw and tight it, which may lead with WHS (Wobbly Hopper Syndrome) akin to crappy rental Tippmann 98s. I did get it to tighten down enough but even with the bolt of the feedneck removed it was not easy to access the screw.

Now let's look at switching to mag-fed feed. On the top of the marker near the front there is a brass bolt that must be loosened: Loosen or remove this and you can twist your barrel to select the proper feed.

Spyder does this through having an insert on the body that's held in place by the bolt. So while you can use the barrel to spin the insert, the insert is a separate piece, unlike how a Tiberius T9 switches from mag-fed to hopper fed using only the barrel. Here's the insert removed from the body (shown above). So this has the barrel threading and first strike breach.

Potentially this also means that someone could design a replacement breach that had different barrel threading, such as autococker threading. But given this is a dead platform, doubt that will ever happen.

Another interesting thing about the insert/breach is that this is where the ball detents are located: These appear to be Spyder-style nubs. I'm not sure if they are replaceable.

**Cdn_Cuda** · 01-23-2022, 06:16 PM

By request let's get into the drivetrain.

And here's a direct comparison to the internals of a class Diablo pump (bottom) to the Hammer 7 (top):

The biggest differences being the bolt. The Diablo has an o-ring on the tip of the bolt and the Hammy 7 has a milled channel and flat bottom. The milling is the same on both sides of the bolt. Hard to to tell in photos but the Hammer 7 internals has a wider diameter internals, so when you put the Diablo internals into the Hammer 7 body it's a loose fit and is not compatible.

And finally the hammer and sears are quite different as well: I would suspect the Hammer 7's hammer hammers harder....

**Cdn_Cuda** · 01-23-2022, 06:20 PM

So now you've seen what's inside, let's circle back to the grip frame. Starting with a direct comparison of the Diablo (bottom) and Hammer 7 (top) trigger frames. The Diablo actually has some trigger adjustment screws! Unfortunately there is no adjustments on the Hammer 7. The grip frame is all plastic, as is the trigger itself.

The grip frame itself comes with a standard style wrap around grips. I found them very uncomfortable and hit my fingers wrong. I immediately switch the grips over to a lower profile SP grips I have kicking around. Fit it's great, but I find it more comfortable.

It is set up for a standard bottle on the bottom line. Notice the big gap on the front of the grip.

**Cdn_Cuda** · 01-23-2022, 06:21 PM

Back to my MC Hammers references for a moment, so should I "Pump it Up" or will it be "U Can't touch this"?

I did throw a small air tank on and hit up my shooting range. First impression is that thing is damn loud. Being that it uses an unported barrel I should not have been surprised. I've been spoiled using very nice snipers (cocker pumps) and started my day shooting a pumped CCM Series 5 so by the time I switched to this it was underwhelming to say the least. Note to self: Always shoot the cheapest gun first!

The generally I have two big issue with the Hammer 7: The pump stroke is very stiff. It may get better if broken in, or with a different main spring. The second was the pump handle. The handle feels okay until you have to pump it and then it's wiggly in just about all directions. A shortened pump stroke might help, but I'd be much more inclined to remove the pump handle all together and use it as a bolt action.

As a starter gun I can see why it wasn't well received. It's a rough, firm pump shooting loudly. Very little refinement. But I can also appreciate why people love to mod these guns. Get rid of the pump handle, get a nice bolt action and drop it into a stock and you'd end up with a very satisfying shot. This is best enjoyed shooting slow and deliberate where each shot is met with a nice level of feedback and while be a great platform to shoot First Strike.

I am still waiting for the mag to be delivered (it was forgotten and the seller had to send it separately) so I'll hold off any comments on the mag-fed portion. I've also never shot a First Strike round, so I cannot comment on that. If I am ordering from a store that has First Strikes I might order a few to shoot in the backyard, but I doubt I'll be keeping the marker that long. I don't possess the skills to modify this into something awesome and will likely be sending this to someone who can turn it into something awesome.

**Cdn_Cuda** · 01-23-2022, 06:46 PM

Mag arrived!

Standard mag setup. Metal cap on top of a spring, pull down on the little tab and lock it sideway at the bottom to load, remember to unlock so spring pressure is on the balls allowing the balls to load.

Top of the mag you can see designed to fit First Strikes. You can also see the littler retainer lip that prevents multiple feeds.

I have yet to try the mag and have never used a First Strike so others will need to chime in on their experiences.

Generally I believe the preference is to change or modify the mag well to accept Dye mags. Apparently you can modify the existing mag well to use TIPX- style mags as well.

**JeepDVLZ45** · 01-23-2022, 10:02 PM

Any chance you can include info on the hammer spring?

I’m trying to source a replacement for mine. It was super corroded when I got it and it looked like someone cut it down. I’m not 100% it was even the stock spring.

Right now I’m running a red CCI spring. It a little too short and I top out at 260fps. (I’d love to get that extra 20FPS)

**William the Third** · 01-24-2022, 12:36 AM

The rubber nubbin detent are replaceable. They are a bit different (shorter mainly) than common Spyder ones. It's a good idea to have extra, as all it takes is one wrong twist of the barrel when switching between hopper/mag, and you'll slice the rear one. In a pinch the forward one can be used in the rear, but you may get roll outs.

Replace the feedneck screws with hex key (allen) headed screws so you can use a ball-end bit to install them. Philips heads were a stupid idea, which Kingman is still doing on some modern Spyders.

The pump stroke is too long, which allows a vigorous pumping action to open the valve slightly, releasing a small load of air. A spacer, like a US nickle, glued in the pump grip limits rearward travel, solving the problem.

**Tarsun2** · 01-27-2022, 10:34 AM

why is the hammer 7 so prized?

**Toestr** · 01-27-2022, 11:07 AM

Originally posted by Tarsun2 View Post

why is the hammer 7 so prized?

Mostly because it's a pump that is a) side cocking so making it bolt action is as easy as replacing the screw with a longer one; and b) cut for fsr from the bottom from the factory. Not a fabulous gun by any means. The hack job sniper rifle mods only made sense when you could buy these for dirt cheap, not the current prices.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

**Tarsun2** · 01-28-2022, 09:29 AM

interesting.
i always thought the OG spyder hammers would be the most sought after.
I've never dealt with 1st strike and know nothing about it.

Announcement

It's Hammer Time! Spyder Hammer 7 Teardown

It's Hammer Time! Spyder Hammer 7 Teardown

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment