Anyone know the specs on the brass valve retention screw?

[Euphie]

I have like 10 bodies without this, so I figure a trip to Mcmaster Carr is in order, but does anyone have the thread size or better yet some resource that shows all Spyder thread sizes? I tried to search but, all I turned up with is some partial posts on PBnation

[scottieb]

Part # 15, valve body screw. The AMG is part # 15a as it's a different screw. The thread size is omitted in the Spyder manuals - par for the course with Kingman, but it stinks. I'm sure I have 10 spare if needed.

If I had the time, I would consolidate all the thread sizes and specs. It would be a useful resource for sure.

[JeeperCreeper]

Just measuring with calipers, M8x1 and 9mm in total length but only 6mm has threads. I hope this helps

[infamoussmiley]

I need to look at my tap...

[Euphie]

So I found my thread pitch thingy, and the little feeler seems like it fits perfectly at 20tpi, I don't have a metric one, but according to the internet that is 1.27mm thread pitch so I am think that means the 8mm diameter with 1.25mm thread pitch at 10mm long brass slotted head set screw should fit. Mcmaster Carr has a pack of 10 of these for $9.72 which should I think be enough for all of my Spyder bodies. I guess with this build I am working on I am going to compile a fair bit of information about the theadsizes, I suppose I might try to get it all into one list and post it up. It seems there used to be a big post that had this stuff on Spyder.tv but the links are all dead now.

[scottieb]

The ones you plan to order, have they the non threaded portion that sets inside the valve? If so, $10 is a fantastic deal for them.

[Euphie]

I was just looking at flat top set screws, the ones with a non threaded portion are only available in steel, and it is about $10 for 5 that would be a nylon or brass tip, but some of these Spyder bodies have kinda rough looking threads, I don't really want to push my luck with steel, I figure if a bit of grinding is necessary that isn't a problem, brass is soft enough.

[scottieb]

Have you gotten this sorted?

[Euphie]

Not yet, I have improvised something temporarily from my big box of misc hardware, I also need a bunch of o-rings and other hardware so I am going to make a big list before I eventually order, and I might just go with the easier steel screws because the body that has rough threads is no longer the one I am most interested in getting going. I know it would just be a bit of grinding for the brass ones, but my current Spyder builds have lots of custom parts and it is going to take me ages to grind, file and drill what I have already committed to

[Tarsun2]

isnt that brass nub just to keep the valve from rotating?

the through-pin that crosses the body keeps it from moving back towards the striker and the keeps the striker from traveling too far forward...

air pressure (and friction i suppose) holds the valve in the body as well.

[Euphie]

Yes but, you could for example drop the gun while it isn’t aired up and if the spring isn’t strong enough to overcome the friction of the O-rings but the impact was enough to overcome it then the valve could also get misaligned. Personally I just wouldn’t run a Spyder without it, after all I have plenty of working markers with all their parts to choose from.

[Tarsun2]

true.
but when you air it up, it should get pushed back in place. (maybe)
the idea wasnt running without it but rather using some other material. something like delrin or nylon or some other plastic type material.
easy to buy a rod and thread it. easy to cut a notch for a flathead driver. easy to bevel the other end.

idk just a thought.

[scottieb]

A lot of the Spyder valves (OG factory valves are all drilled through) are drilled completely through so air would vent massively through the bottom valve retaining screw hole.

[pghp8ntballer]

You could always tap the body for ⅛ - NPT. Then you can use a standard ⅛ plug. You would lose the alignment nub but it allows you to seal the body in case your valve is drilled through.

[Trbo323]

A lot of the Spyder valves (OG factory valves are all drilled through) are drilled completely through so air would vent massively through the bottom valve retaining screw hole.

This was my thought as well that screw is not only preventing the valve from rotating but also acting as a plug

My concern with a delrin or nylon version would be that each pulse of air would weaken the threads slightly and it would eventually pop out.

I could be wrong on that what if that does happen you know it would happen at the most inopportune moment

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[JeeperCreeper]

One time, I forgot to put this screw back in. The only thing that happened was it leaked.

[Tarsun2]

its unknown to me as well. just brain storming.
some are drilled all the way through and some are not.

do they drill through the lower tube just to make the hole between the bottom tube and top tube...? and then it just kindda works that it keeps it all lined up as well..?

i guess that kind of makes sense. jeeze, wheres Doc when ya' need him. lol

[Trbo323]

its unknown to me as well. just brain storming.
some are drilled all the way through and some are not.

do they drill through the lower tube just to make the hole between the bottom tube and top tube...? and then it just kindda works that it keeps it all lined up as well..?

i guess that kind of makes sense. jeeze, wheres Doc when ya' need him. lol

That's exactly why that hole is there

Please explain why we need doc to teach us how a stacked tube blowback works?

I feel like that's requesting Einstein explain that fire is hot. Not even why it's hot just that it is hot

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