Looking on some input for my latest build.

[Euphie]

So, I want to build a Spyder, or rather either a Spimmy or Spycal I haven't decided if I want to go open or closed bolt yet. The goal is to make two of them, one more as a sort of practice run with a Spyder Compact body, and then one or two more with Bob Long Millennium bodies. There are several design choices that I am still in the process of making and it will probably change between guns as I learn more about exactly what works and what doesn't.

The first question is regulators. The concept for this Spyder Compact is a two tone brass and bronze look, I have a bottle of Burnt Bronze Cerakote, and I was planning on going over it with the high gloss clear Cerakote, and to polish the brass to a mirror finish before also clear coating it with high gloss clear Cerakote. The issue I am running into is the obvious regulator of choice would be a brass fatty Palmer Stabilizer, but mocking it up with a normal Palmer Stabilizer it just doesn't look like there is room to do that. I attached a photo showing about where everything would line up. Ignore all the Millennium bodies and the baby lathe chuck I use to help polish and sand round things.

I have a Maxflo or two around here, which I also considered but, I feel like that would make it all very tall, but if someone could point me to a brass gas thru grip I might go that way with it. Since the hose has to reach from the LPR to the grip frame, I feel am thinking it would just be safer to go with a regulator that doesn't have inputs high up on it, maybe something like an AKA Sidewinder, do they still make those?

Also does anyone know how practical a brass hardline is? I know that the Phantom can use them, if I am going with my theme here I figure I might as well look into it.

I am going to ask Palmer if they have anymore brass Rocks or Microrocks, as those look alot better than that Clippard regulator, and it already has a Palmer barrel on it.

Second question has anyone used Sendcutsend? I have designed several parts that I will still need to finish, because the prices seem absolutely unreal, like I can get a part made out of lasercut brass that I will just need to do a bit of filing on cheaper than I can buy the raw brass from somewhere like E-bay. Is there some catch I am unaware of aside from the $29 minimum?

I was intending on replacing the trigger guard, trigger, grip frame side plates and ball detent with brass pieces, I will still have to do a fair bit of cutting, sanding and drilling to make them all fit but, it just feels a bit too good to be true.

The third question is how far can you cut a Spyder body? Do you have to keep it to the slot milled into it or can you cut further off of it without risking the integrity of the frame, because if I go closed bolt I will be putting a brass ram sleeve in the top tube too, but if I go open bolt I might as well cut the frame down a bit so that I can use Intimidator bolts.

Forth Question anyone ever use Phase 5 1911 grips? These look like they would match perfectly, but they seem somewhat expensive I don't think I could do as good of a job making grips on my own which was my initial idea, but if they aren't that good I will maybe just look at wood or something.

[Jonnydread]

They are still making sidewinders and they are still great.

[Hellion360]

Sidewinder or CP/Shocktech are probably your best bets. Air input at the bottom either way.

[Euphie]

Bit of an update, ordered some of the first parts for this build, turns out Sendcutsend is absolutely legit.
So here are some of the rough cuts right out of the package, I am making some single triggers, single trigger guards, and ball detent covers. Beside them is the reference part I am using to make them. I am honestly impressed with how easy it was to copy the parts too, since all I did was take a photo and trace the parts. The single trigger guard is about 1/16" too long so I will have to try and bend it slightly or perhaps make one of the holes a bit bigger. I intentionally didn't have them cut holes into the single triggers, I didn't want to do my triggers the way Mythic did with a plastic insert, I want a very tight fit without a bunch of slop. The Spyder ball detent cover is probably going to be the easiest, just a bit of grinding to fit the profile, and drill an area for the detent and screws and it is basically done, just need to polish it. I got it a bit longer than I needed because I was thinking of maybe laser engraving something cool onto it.

The big thing I take away from all of this is that 3d printed trigger guard from Shapeways costs about 2x what those brass trigger guards cost about about 10x what it would cost if I had made them in aluminum so, I am going to really pursue just laser cutting a part and doing a bit of filing where possible due to the cost and the fact I can polish it up and make it look nice afterwards.