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**Carp** · 01-09-2021, 12:30 AM

I've never had any nipples to shave.

**Arthur** · 02-20-2021, 06:48 AM

Update:

FSC has not chopped or jammed since shavin nips. Previously I'd had some type of chippy, clippy, choppy or flippy at some point during the day. I've tested thoroughly in both ideal and awful weather.

DAM w/ new breach GBD FSR kit s phenomenal with or without sanding plastic.

My theory thus far:

This was previously referenced here but I think there is some genuine utility for sanding FS nips when running a dated magfed design (mcs, t15, T8, first gen DAMs, Maxtact, maybe Milsig?). I think I'm going to resurrect my MCS Vortex FS project, see if a bit of sanding gets it to feed reliably.

**drewkroeker** · 05-11-2021, 03:55 AM

Just thought I'd chime in with my First Strike experience. I have had great success shooting FS out of my SSR. My issue is not with the nipple tip but the size of the round itself. I have a Hammerhead barrel kit with all the sizers. The 0.683 is far too small. The 0.686 sizer fits perfectly for 1 out of every 6 rounds, maybe 1 out of every 10. A few are 0.685, but the majority of them are 0.684. If I chamber a 0.684 round in the 0.686 Hammerhead back, it will slide out if I have the marker pointed down. I tried to switch it up by using a freak barrel with the 0.684 insert, but the SSR bolt face is too wide. When I chamber a round in a 0.684 barrel, the bolt will actually rotate the barrel.

Options:

1) shoot anything that isn't 0.686 out of a different gun, and keep buying loads of FS rounds to get 10% of them that fit the SSR
2) very VERY carefully sand down the chamfered edge of the bolt face to fit a 0.684 insert. I am extremely hesitant to do this; I really do not want to take off too much and have any kind of leak from a bolt that will no longer seal. If I could get someone to fabricate me a spare SSR bolt I would try it.
3) make some sort of detent in the 0.686 barrel back to take up 0.002" of space and keep the undersized rounds from sliding out

I am going with option 3. I eyeballed where the round sits in the 0.686 fin and then drilled a hole roughly where the seam would be. Then I slid a thin strip of paper through the drilled hole and taped it on the outside. It seemed to work okay just pushing rounds through and I thought I had it solved. But eventually the paper ripped. If this happened in a game I would be back to square one. My next idea is to file a small channel for the paper strip to sit in, not quite flush so that it still holds the round in place. I am on the lookout for any material that is as thin as paper but stronger. I may be way over-thinking this one, possibly should have just put a couple drops of nail polish in the barrel and called it good. Another key part of the process was scouring the internet for the last 0.686 Hammerhead autococker fin in existence. If I botch this at least I will have my back-up fin. I will try to get some pics of my handiwork.

**drewkroeker** · 05-12-2021, 01:10 PM

I pulled out a bag of 0.684 FS and my 0.683 back. I can push the rounds through by hand but it takes a lot of effort. The 0.686 rounds will sit in the 0.686 back without moving but will slide easily when I push on them, makes for very smooth reloading. I'm assuming I will have to raise my operating pressure significantly from where it is now if I am squeezing oversized rounds through the barrel. I will try it the next time I'm near a chronograph and see what happens.

I have messed with some Planet eclipse detents, trying to see if I could situate it poking through the little hole I drilled and still screw the barrel in. Haven't found a way to make it fit. I will hunt around and see what else I can shove in there.

I have considered reaming out the 0.683 back, I just don't know who I should ask for that kind thing. It would mean reaming out very little and then getting it re-anodized, and hoping the bore is exactly 0.001 larger than what I started with. I don't know much about machining but that seems like very precise tolerances to ask from a paintball airsmith. The DIY version would be getting a wooden dowel and sandpaper and going to town.

I have not tried a lapco or nemesis barrel as of yet. Any thing I want to try I just have to buy it myself so I'm hoping I can make something work with the Hammerhead kit. Once I figure something out I will post pics of my solution.

**Arthur** · 05-12-2021, 02:35 PM

Yeah, the tolerances with this stuff can be maddening. I know telling you to buy more stuff isnt a solution, but have you tried a Nemesis barrel? I keep one around for my FSC and DAM. I haven't been as scientific as you with sizing but I've found some batches fit better with the Nemesis vs the HH.

And don't feel alone, people have been complaining for awhile about the variances in FS size, especially recently.

**Chuck E Ducky** · 05-12-2021, 02:52 PM

Do the barrels make that big a difference? I just been using the stock UL on the Dam and it works just fine for me. I don’t use sights I’m just point shooting them anyway. I don’t really even use the extra range. They don’t break all that well at distance anyway. Threading them threw spool holes are a lot of fun tho.

**drewkroeker** · 05-12-2021, 05:26 PM

**drewkroeker** · 05-12-2021, 05:31 PM

So here is my solution: I took a thin metal piece from a dead stopwatch and made a little strip to fit inside the hole I drilled. The fin is 0.693, that seemed to be the optimal size just playing around and pushing FS through. It feels like they will stay in place until fired. The metal strip is far enough ahead that the bolt will not cut it like a pair of scissors. I will test it and report back my results.

EDIT: went out and fired two 6-round magazines. Seems to work just fine, and the detent was kept in place and didn't have any damage. Thanks for all the suggestions, I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. 😃

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