System X NME Teardown (Timmy Clone)

[Cdn_Cuda]

Taking apart a System X NME. I’ve actually had it apart and replaced the dead oring, but have a slight leak that requires some thread sealant.

Going to start off with the grip frame open. Removed the 2 screws in the grips, then the four trigger frame screws to remove the front plate. This also removes the trigger guard:


Next step is to remove the eye cover and detent:


And here you can see the Spyder style rubber nub. One detent per side, and there’s a slot so the detent can be moved forward for back a little as well.



The removed the remaining to frame screws to detach the rest of the trigger frame:

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now moving to disconnecting the board and solenoid, which thankfully is pretty easy. Remove the battery, and unclip the connect the solenoid connecter:



And the. You can lift the solenoid free of the trigger frame and set the trigger frame aside.


Unscrew the reg and it all comes free, so basically just the board and the trigger left in the frame. And it can be set aside to work on the body.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now back to the body. This is an easy time to remove the bolt, just pull up on the bolt pin and slide back. I’ve already replaced the orings on the bolt.



Now we can focus on where my leak is coming from, the front airline that goes through the vertical ASA.


This bolt holds the folding block, similar to a Spyder. Once removed the front block and LPR can slide off the body. But you need to get that little barb off first. This barbs leaks on at the moment, so I want to remove it to add some loctite.

It’s a lot easier to just cut the hose and remove the nipple, but I don’t want to mess with the hoses so I do this the painful and slow way with a small adjustable wrench…


And with some patience the bolt comes off and I can remove the front block:

[Cdn_Cuda]

So here we have the spring and valve pin, again similar to cockers and Spyders. One oring on the pin.


Now time to remove the rear plug and take ram out.



And there is a valve retention set screw, again like cockers and Spyders. However, this is not a single valve that can be easily removed. In fact the tube runs the entire length of the main body. All barbs would need to be removed. I am not going to do this unless I have to.

[Cdn_Cuda]

So this brings me back to reattaching the leaky nipple. The challenge is the hose is fixed to the solenoid, so I pre-load the hose like a spring so it twiss into the threads making it is easier to screw it back in. I’m adding some blue locktite to seal it better and hopefully fix my leak.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Uh, oh! Spotted a problem I need to fix! One on the wires is separating!


I’ll have to fix this before reassembling the grip frame. I’ll go through all this once I fix that wire.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now I’ll jump to the regs starting with the HPR.

The reg sits it the collar and is supposed to be held in place by a grub screw. Mine is missing the screw, so a firm push removed the collar.



And here is is without the collar;



The reg splits in two and the internals can all be removed:

[Jordan]

Guess Bob Long really did just copy the Stab when he designed the Torpedo.

[Cdn_Cuda]

And then System X ripped it off further.

[Cdn_Cuda]

The LPR is really simple as well, and is build like the System X cocker LPR. There are three grub screws around the LPR housing that need to be removed, then the cover can slide right off:



The only tricky part is making sure you line up cover of the LPR with external hose:

Not aligned:



Aligned:

[Cdn_Cuda]

I’ve developed a leak in the main body,
so looks like I’m going to have to take out that valve tube after all. Was trying to avoid removing the hoses.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Lower tube turned out to be temperamental due to some deformities. Made it difficult to remove the lower valve tube. Some persuasion helps and I’ll file it smooth.

[Cdn_Cuda]

After a long break, I’m back to trying to get this beast to work. The valve o-ring was toast, and after significant struggle I have replaced it. Make sure it’s a lower dura 004 o-ring. I had 90 dura and they would just snap. It’s annoying to get such a tiny o-ring over the valve stem.

[Cdn_Cuda]

So now I need to reassemble the body, which means dealing with the barbs, which as in annoying and difficult places. Thankfully in my hording I’ve gotten some smaller tools that help immensely:

This little wrench and socket helped immensely as using needle nose pliers here sucks. The wrench fits where the ASA/front block barb fits and the socket fits where the lower tube barb goes. And of course they will now work the other way around due to the tight spacing.

[Cdn_Cuda]

And after fighting with the rear barb for 20 minutes I found I had a replacement that worked right away. This is not my favourite platform to work on…

[Trbo323]

Yeah this has gen 3 Timmy written all over it. I absolutely hated the design when I was working for dirty works. Some was due to the design, some was due to how BL chose to build it.

A few things for you,

1. I always found for the barbs it was best to find the correct socket (I don't remember what it is off hand) and remove the hoses from the barbs but leave them on the solenoid. Use the wrench if you need to to get them off but when installing barbs, use the socket WITHOUT the wrench, just turn it by hand and tighten it up, don't go crazy on it get them snug and that's all they need. More than that and you are risking breaking them. I used a thin strip of Teflon tape on a few pesky ones and they sealed up fine.

2. Maybe it was just the way you worded it but those slots in the body are not for the detents to move forward and back. The base is held in place by the eye cover. The slots are to give the finger somewhere to bend out of the way when the bolt comes forward.

3. When installing the ram sleeve/valve, be sure to watch through the holes in the bottom of the body where the barbs pass through. What can happen is especially the front valve ring can get caught in the holes and slice itself as you are installing. If you watch through the holes you can see it bend down into the empty space and potentially use and o ring pick to push it back up into place so it doesn't slice. Go slow but realize that ring also has to pass over the transfer port between the top and bottom tube and there's nothing you can do about that one. I found it was best to get the tube in, ram in and barbs and hoses connected and then pressure test before doing final assembly to see if you cut that o ring and have to take it all apart again. Lube those rings really well and it can help them go in

Also, what was with the mid 2000s and having an absolute hairball of wires in the frame with very little planning for where they all go?

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[Cdn_Cuda]

Thanks! Makes sense for the ball detents.

Yes, all this area of markers have a huge amount of wires and connectors just stuffed in random places. Too easy to clip a wire when putting the frame back on.