Removing quickswitch from Blazer

[Embier]

Does it just pop out the front after removing the plug? I recently bought a BZ3## Blazer "with a leak". Admittedly I have no idea about any leak since I don't have a tank, but a'ight. I have a Palmer rebuild kit for 1K Blazer and it came with a whole new quickswitch. So how do I replace it?

[Jordan]

Yes.... You'll likely need to help it out if the seals are goo.

Taking off the grip frame will help - you'll see where the trigger rod interfaces with the 'Switch stem, you can get it moving from there.

If you've never rebuilt a Blazer it might be worth your while to send it to PPS to get done - 1K Blazers are up there on the difficulty scale in terms of accessing and replacing seals. Depends on how much of a masochist you are. 🙂

[Embier]

Cool, thank you!

Yeah, I'm imagine that the o-rings are goo then, because it really doesn't want to move.

And yes, it probably makes the most sense to send it in, but this is a learning experience as much as anything else. I'm not in any hurry and I take lots of pictures. Should be fine! :-)

[Jackson]

As Jordan said, take the grip frame off and push it out the front with a small implement. I might be a bit difficult if the seals are goo.

[OpusX]

Had to go check past posts, but pretty sure 1.2x5.7 metric orings should work just fine in the Blazer quickswitch (https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...ducts_id=41768)

[Embier]

The rebuild kit comes with a brand-spanking new quickswitch so the inner and outer o-rings on it should both be fine. I'm honestly a bit worried more that I managed with pretty significant difficulty to get the original quickswitch out. Not because the o-rings were screwed up (in fact, they all looked pretty good to me) but that the threads for the "switch plug" that holds the QSwitch in jut out enough that the QSwitch o-rings catch on them.

I don't think anything tore when inserting the new QSwitch or at least I hope not, but the old one seemed to be fine in any case. Regardless, it's in, it moves back and forth without any difficulty. Hopefully it's good to go.

Next is to actually sort out all of the o-rings in the rebuild kit and figure out where what goes where. The sticky in here shows the o-ring sizes, so it's just a matter of sorting the o-ring kit out and then replacing everything as I reassemble.

ETA: and then of course comes actually timing the thing (*grumble grumble* what is this non-Automag sorcery?) but eh. As I said, this is a project.

[Jordan]

Unless you've adjusted anything, timing is essentially "fixed" on a Blazer - all the adjustment points are in the frame so if the frame gets put in the same spot every time you take it off/reinstall it, you're good.

The install procedure for the frame is simple - push the frame towards the front (barrel end) as you tighten the frame mounting screws. The hardest part is installing the 'Switch rod.