Superstocker rebuild

[AmericanPaintball]

looking at acquiring an older Superstocker, I used to be pretty good tech what seems like many moons ago, lots of sheridan experience, I can't seem to figue out how to remove the valve. Maybe I just need to try harder.

Is there someone that won't take a long time that is recommended to repair them?

[jdgreen76]

Need a Sheridan valve tool I believe.

[Jonnydread]

Need a Sheridan valve tool I believe.

Yep! Also heads up the valve/vertical adapter area can be a real bitch to get apart for a rebuild.

I don't know any specific PPS rebuilders, but if you need a Sheridan guy you could try JeeperCreeper Shaftski AnarchicArctic or even JeepDVLZ45

capitalpaintball has begrudgingly helped me with my Super Stocker

[AmericanPaintball]

I can give it another shot, I had tried, I have a valve tool, I couldn't get the ASA off years ago, I will give it another go, and if I can pull it off, will make a tech video for youtube for those who need it in the future.

[jdgreen76]

I can give it another shot, I had tried, I have a valve tool, I couldn't get the ASA off years ago, I will give it another go, and if I can pull it off, will make a tech video for youtube for those who need it in the future.

The VASA is gonna need heat. I had to use a torch to remove it from my Palmer's. There's a healthy amount of loctite in there.

[AnarchicArctic]

Yeah I’d wager heat is gonna be your friend

[Jordan]

*Take the valve out first before doing the following.*

I clamp the VASA in a bench vise between two pieces of pine - tight - and apply heat with a propane torch on the VASA, then twist the body off the ASA. Comes off in about 30 seconds.

You're changing all the seals anyways if you're at the point of needing to remove the vertical ASA, so no need to worry about damaging orings.

[AmericanPaintball]

*Take the valve out first before doing the following.*

I clamp the VASA in a bench vise between two pieces of pine - tight - and apply heat with a propane torch on the VASA, then twist the body off the ASA. Comes off in about 30 seconds.

You're changing all the seals anyways if you're at the point of needing to remove the vertical ASA, so no need to worry about damaging orings.

This is what I was looking for, thank you! Just took a few minutes and removed the quick change, and then was like well... huh.. I really don't want to mar it all up, are the pine pieces just straight, or did you drill them and then cut them so they had a roundish shape.

I know back when I used to remove co2 tank valves we made up some wood clamps that had a hinge on one end, and then a threaded rod and a nut that we could clamp down, never used heat on the co2 tanks, but held enough to remove all valves to replace or do annual inspections.

[Jordan]

This is what I was looking for, thank you! Just took a few minutes and removed the quick change, and then was like well... huh.. I really don't want to mar it all up, are the pine pieces just straight, or did you drill them and then cut them so they had a roundish shape.

I know back when I used to remove co2 tank valves we made up some wood clamps that had a hinge on one end, and then a threaded rod and a nut that we could clamp down, never used heat on the co2 tanks, but held enough to remove all valves to replace or do annual inspections.

I just use straight pieces of wood - I clamp 'em tight enough to deform the wood around the ASA. It's stainless, it won't deform plus the wood being fairly soft keeps from marring anything.

[Ecapnation]

I've used a collet and collet block for machine shops to pull off the vertical asa.

Clamps firmly and without scratching

[AmericanPaintball]

Thanks for the vote of confidence and direction, finally was able to get back on this project, and yes took some heat and clamping, but was finally successful at the removal of the vertical ASA. Working on a video as well for future techies who want to give it a shot.

[AmericanPaintball]

Ok, so now I have the valve assembly out, I know on sheridays there is an oring on the front of the valve body, which was not there, is there the chamber plug sleeve in front of the valve?

Does one push the remaining parts out the front or the back of the gun? I removed the front plug on the lower tube, tried pushing but due to trying not to damage anything looking for direction, pushing front the back towards the front didn't seem to want to give, and from the front to the back as well.

Thank you guys for your guidance.

[Jordan]

The oring is probably black goo at this point.

For the internals - one piece goes put the back, the other goes out the front.


Take a look at the Hurricane rebuild sticky - you’ll get an idea.