Saved by Carter, and me. Posted her in case anyone wants to know.
Level 1
Get a trigger shoe, they add a lot to the comfort and general feel of the trigger. It'll "FEEL" a bit lighter just because the force is spread across the pad of your finger rather than just a small area.
Level 2
With just a little work you can change the whole feel of the gun. Drill and tap the trigger shoe for a small set screw (#3-56 or #4-40) such that when extended it limits that rearward travel of the trigger, You can cut the pull in half just like that.
This is also a method that was used a lot in the old days to "tune" early nelson autotriggers.
Level 3
Adding a little shim to the top of the trigger shoe to remove any uptake slack. For myself, I drill and tap a second set screw into the top of the trigger shoe, though you could add a couple layers of metal tape or glue some thin plastic up there for the same effect. Now you have a pull with no wasted movements, very snappy indeed!
Level 4
!!!!!WARNING: Make the following mods only if you are comfortable with the tools needed, and/or solvent enough to replace ruined parts should you muff the job!!!!!
First, hit the hardware store for the lightest extension spring you can find. Take your original along as a visual reference. The idea here it to lighten the trigger as much as possible and still have it return.
Next, drill the frame for the next size up trigger pin that your local hardware store has. Mine had some 5/32" pins in stainless. Buy a drill bit (cobalt) that is the very next size up. For those of you in the tool biz, I'm refering to either the lettered or number index bits. There's one that's .002" larger. Drill your trigger's pin hole with that. The idea is to use the larger trigger pin to cut down on the side to side wobble.
Finally, possible the easiest to screw up. Grind the bottom of the bolt where the sear catches. You only need to do a very small amount of grinding, followed by some polish work. the idea is to reduce the needed "creep" in the trigger pull.
Done correctly, you can cut the needed pull in half again. Along with this one, you may want to consider adding a STIFFER sear latch spring in the hammer. It won't hurt the pull at all and will help keep the sear latching as reliable as possible.
I've done everything that I have listed here, the sum total resulted in a 1.5mm pull at about 1lb. of required force. Very cool, but only you can determine if it's worth this much work.
Hope this helps!
Level 1
Get a trigger shoe, they add a lot to the comfort and general feel of the trigger. It'll "FEEL" a bit lighter just because the force is spread across the pad of your finger rather than just a small area.
Level 2
With just a little work you can change the whole feel of the gun. Drill and tap the trigger shoe for a small set screw (#3-56 or #4-40) such that when extended it limits that rearward travel of the trigger, You can cut the pull in half just like that.
This is also a method that was used a lot in the old days to "tune" early nelson autotriggers.
Level 3
Adding a little shim to the top of the trigger shoe to remove any uptake slack. For myself, I drill and tap a second set screw into the top of the trigger shoe, though you could add a couple layers of metal tape or glue some thin plastic up there for the same effect. Now you have a pull with no wasted movements, very snappy indeed!
Level 4
!!!!!WARNING: Make the following mods only if you are comfortable with the tools needed, and/or solvent enough to replace ruined parts should you muff the job!!!!!
First, hit the hardware store for the lightest extension spring you can find. Take your original along as a visual reference. The idea here it to lighten the trigger as much as possible and still have it return.
Next, drill the frame for the next size up trigger pin that your local hardware store has. Mine had some 5/32" pins in stainless. Buy a drill bit (cobalt) that is the very next size up. For those of you in the tool biz, I'm refering to either the lettered or number index bits. There's one that's .002" larger. Drill your trigger's pin hole with that. The idea is to use the larger trigger pin to cut down on the side to side wobble.
Finally, possible the easiest to screw up. Grind the bottom of the bolt where the sear catches. You only need to do a very small amount of grinding, followed by some polish work. the idea is to reduce the needed "creep" in the trigger pull.
Done correctly, you can cut the needed pull in half again. Along with this one, you may want to consider adding a STIFFER sear latch spring in the hammer. It won't hurt the pull at all and will help keep the sear latching as reliable as possible.
I've done everything that I have listed here, the sum total resulted in a 1.5mm pull at about 1lb. of required force. Very cool, but only you can determine if it's worth this much work.
Hope this helps!