Hey all, I had a Brass Eagle Tiger Shark that was in desperate need of repairs, so along with the repairs I'm doing some modifications. I'm making a stock to set it into out of plywood. Since the trigger assembly is a whopping inch and a quarter wide, the plywood will allow me to make some areas thinner without worrying about grain weakness. Planning on giving it a 14" raptor barrel when I get around to it. I'll keep you posted when I have something more to show.
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The Great Equalizer has a Tiger Shark with some pretty cool fun tional modifications if I remember right.Originally posted by MAr "... Nish deleted it..."
Originally posted by Painthappy "...I like what nish did..."
Originally posted by Axel "coffee-fueled, beer-cooled."
Originally posted by Carp "Nish's two brain cells"
Master Jar-Jar
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Nish is right, I'm a fan of the TigerShark and I have more than a few with freak bored barrels and velocity mods. The velocity mod is going to be the biggest issue. If you have the valve apart you'll see that when the hammer hits the power tube, the inlet holes on the powertube inside the chamber are barely exposed. You're not likely to get above 250FPS until you have those holes fully exposed. Ty McNeer (who has since closed his shop) turned down the Valve Seat/Nut so those air holes are fully exposed. Any airsmith with a lath and some experience should be able to do the same. Once this mod is done velocity can be adjusted with a standard spring kit. Over here we're trying to convince Doc to make some velocity adjusting bolts for the TigerShark/Talon https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...ext#post345392
Upper picture - Stock TigerShark valve
Lower picture - Ty McNeer upgraded valve
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Powertube is stock. If you find old modification posts, they talk about shaving down the... bump(?) on the power tube. I can't remember what it's called, but the thick ring where the hammer hits the power tube. People said they were able to make this ring thinner on the side facing the valve to expose more of the holes in the power tube. But, since that ring is recessed in the hammer when the hammer connects with it, you also have to put a spacer in that recessed area in the hammer or the hammer hits the valve retainer and you don't get the extra millimeters to expose that hole. I found a nylon spacer in a hardware store that fit, but I never tried that modification. I'll also note with that modification there is no way you could expose the entire hole in the power tube within the valve, but you might get it a little over 50% exposure. I think the modification Ty did is the way to go.Last edited by The Great Equalizer; 12-11-2022, 10:20 PM.
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Oh that makes sense. I was thinking you meant like shortening the entire length of the power tube.
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Originally posted by RADwriter View PostPlanning on giving it a 14" raptor barrel when I get around to it. I'll keep you posted when I have something more to show.
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Originally posted by glaman5266 View Post
I might be wrong, but don't the Tigershark & Raptor barrels have a different shank length? Or an I thinking the Raptor vs. F1 Illustrator barrels? Something to double-check anyway.
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Granted, it kinda looks like crud right now... But it's slowly taking shape. Meant to be single shot at a time for firststrike, pumped from the top for a prone position, and lightweight, thus the 12 gram adapter still installed or the potential of using my remote line.1 Photo
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Doc Nickel, DocsMachine. Paintball's favorite polar bear. He started a thread asking for machining ideas and mentioned that he could take one of his Autococker bull barrels and probably make it work with a Tiger shark.
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Im watching this very curiously, any particular reason you're not 'converting' it over to bolt action? A tiger shark was my first marker ages ago and I've been debating grabbing one off eBay to make it a magfed bolt action marker in a home-made stock of a similar size but different shape than yours.
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This right here. ^^^ I saw that last pic & thought “That’d be fun to make into a bolt action.”
Not that you’d have to. But it’s a thought anyway. Stock shape looks interesting.
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The bolt has threads on both sides for the bolts that fasten the pump handle to it, I just can't remember if system to replace a return spring would need to be rigged up.
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I thought about some kind of bolt action, but realizing my style of play, I crank out one shot at a time and then stay quiet for a bit, and don't like removing my hand from the rear grip. So I'm keeping the pump since the hand I'm using to pump it will be up there already.Last edited by RADwriter; 12-23-2022, 05:22 AM.
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