The one that didn't make the cut...

[BrickHaus]

For the like 5 people who still watch this build. I need your input.

Ill be mounting the quads sometime in the next 2 weeks.

Here is what I am thinking, 4x 12ies down the left side of the stock. That way toy can reload 12ies without letting go of the main grip.

Im not sure if there is a spot you guys think would work better, so I wanted to ask. Whatchya think?

[Chuck E Ducky]

Forward more so it don’t interfere with shouldering it.

[BrickHaus]

I figure if I push them into that mask cutout they will clip the mask, but you are right.

[Painthappy]

Great setup

[BrickHaus]

Chuck. You right. This is as far forward as I can push them where is still allows me to grip left handed and not ride them with my wrist. Not that ill shoot this left handed a lot. ( unless I spring feed it....)

[XEMON]

Did you try laying them out horizontally ?

[BrickHaus]

X, I laid them horizontal, but left them end to end ( same location as these) i wasn't a huge fan of it. I haven't tried horizontal but vertically mounted. Ill keep messing around with it before I attempt to mount.

[jeramiej]

Hide them in the buttstock like an old school shotgun or air rifle. If speedy access is needed, stick with a wrist setup.

[BrickHaus]

Im pretty bummed to seethe hole spacing on the quads is too close together to utilize my hardwood thread inserts. I either need to use a wood screw directly, or I need to slot the quads slightly to open. The hole spacing up. I really dont want to slot the quads if I dont have to..

Third option is I make a small plate that ties these together. i would then use 3x of the threaded inserts to secure the whole assembly.

[Spider!]

The mounting plate sounds good. It can be recessed or not. For that size, you could mount it with just wood screws. I'm thinking you're tapping the holes for the quads and using short screws there. (?) Especially if not recessed, i would make the plate close to as wide as the quads are tall, for rocking support.

[BrickHaus]

Initially I was thinking of recessing the plate. Tap the plate on the inner 2 mounting holes, but then put a thread adapter on the 2x outside holes. And a third adapter in the middle of the plate. But wood screws may also work. I just hate the head profile of most wood screws.

[jeramiej]

Since you are rocking a dropout, what if you made an option to house the spares forward of the forearm. Or in the forearm.

[BrickHaus]

Thats a good idea too. I may end up having to ditch my quads and going this route. I messed with setting the quads on the foregrip, and it just seems clunky.

[jeramiej]

The quads are gorgeous, but if you made your own, maybe the middle could be wide enough for the barrel or lower tube.

[BrickHaus]

Had some free time today. Remade the lever arm assembly out of my brass stock I ordered weeks ago. Spend some time working the flaws out of the handle, and rounding the lever block.

I also drilled into the rotational shaft deeper for better set screw grab.

Put it all together and was able to rack off 10 or so shots before the set screws loosened up. Walz is right, I may not get my idea to work.

Its time to wind down for work again, but Ill take a stab at drilling the rotational shaft even deeper, then using 243 loctte on the set screws.

[XEMON]

Don't you have a CNC mill?
Broaching is super easy on there ...

[BrickHaus]

X. No sir. I wish I had a mill. I have a full height drill press. I did my poor excuse of milling on that.

I've been on Craigslist watching mills and lathes, and I keep buying stuff before I have enough to cover them.

[XEMON]

Takes a bit longer, but you can do it on the drill press ...
Do you have a "milling vise" for it?
(the ones with an movable axis)

Or you can cut it by hand with a good square file ... not optimal, but it will work ...

Edit: Here is a video of the process on a CNC mill (they go away from the part on the way up, but its not necessary ...)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5VQckz0a4Q

Each time you come down, yo go in a few thou, slowly scraping away the keyway.
The tools can be made from tool blank or boring bars.

[BrickHaus]

Well. We got a nasty storm through the night that took us back to Winter conditions. Needless to say, I'm bored and felt like a tinker session. I went in the basement looking for pulp from refinishing this stock. Unfortunately it was all mixed up with aluminum shavings from working the lever assembly and wood interchangeably.

That being said, I had a cup of pulp from a burly white oak piece of wood I was saving. I figure it doesn't quite match, but its not too far off. The blacks from the burl marks help.

Either way, I figured Id try it and if it sucks, Ill pivot.


Well, I mixed up my oak pulp and wood glud and I am attempting to hand pack the stock but plate to make the transition much nicer.

Its rough right now, but I need to let this harden, and sand the high spots. If it sticks, I can do one more pack to make it better. I may also try the same thing with CA and wood pulp.

[Jordan]

I've got some dents to fix in my KP stock so I'm interested in how this turns out.

Can you stain the end result?

[BrickHaus]

The videos I watched eluded to the fact that you could. Its better to use the dust from the same wood, and finer dust is ideal,. I figured even if it doesn't match itll look like a recoil pad. Ill make it work.

My biggest challenge at this point is the fact that the hammer binds like a mfer in the tube

I've been struggling with my lever assembly coming apart and or random binding. And now that I have grub screws and jam nuts on my lever its solid.. well I have attributed my troubles to the hammer binding.

Ive tried 2 bolts this morning. I took the trigger assembly off. Hammer moves freely in the lower tube. Bolt moves freely. Bolt moving hammer via lug with no spring tension... it all moves freely.


Put my spring in and use my thumb to create a back stop on the spring guide.... i can't pull the bolt back smooth. And getting the hammer all the way back seems impossible with reasonable force.

It seems the hammer cocks enough to drive the front lobe into the top slot, and the bottom lobe into the bottom slot. Making it not want to slide.


I carefully took a file to it for a bit. And it helped a bit, but not enough. I took a break before I wrecked something over filing.

Id try a p series hammer, but Id have to pull the roll pin sear, and re press it in while the hammer is in the body.

Ill ponder on this one. I wish I could just whip up a new hammer with more edge meat to prevent the bind.

[jeramiej]

Any sawdust and CA works well. I use them in wood turning all the time. I also use used coffee grinds for cracks and such. It creates a nice effect and with CA is rock hard. I will tend to keep red or other vibrant (Osage, red heart, purple, etc) saw dust for when I want something more from the fill.

[Jordan]

For the hammer binding problem... what about using a Bluestreak hammer and trigger?

Left to right: Bluestreak, KP, P-Series.



You can see the extra meat on the BS... Maybe that'll help? JG has both triggers and hammers on their site.

Also... I know I had a similar issue with my KP prior to trimming the new mainspring I bought. It was at least 1/2" too long, maybe more, for the velocity I was trying to get, and once trimmed made the pumpstroke much nicer. Have you cut your spring at all?

[BrickHaus]

i cut a few coils off, just enough that the back cap slightly compresses is when I place it. the bluestreak hammer may work. I was considering cutting the inner lope on my dual lobe trigger to see if that helped make it latch sooner.

[BrickHaus]

Jordan you are a genius. So I stalled buying the bluestreak (c19) hammer as I am cheap, but I finally pulled the trigger last weekend. Parts showed up today, and I am so pleasantly surprised as to how much of a difference it makes. I may have to Put an uncut spring in now at it seems so much of a softer shot. But I dont care, the bolt moves better in the body.

I've racked and dry fired at least 50 shots with no sign of my set screws backing off. Oh what a joy. I almost lost motivation on this as I figured the hammer wouldnt make a difference in this body. Thank you again for the nudge. I was thinking of trying it, hut you suggesting really sent the idea home.

[Jordan]

BrickHaus - that's fantastic, so happy you've got it working now. Looking forward to the shooting video!

You might find, with the extra weight of the hammer, combined with no more binding, that you don't need a lot of spring tension. My KP doesn't need a ton, I think I'm one turn in on my RVA from touching the spring guide... I'm running the BS trigger/hammer too.

[BrickHaus]

Printed some parts in PETG. Re printed my co2 lever holder dealy. And Alexdl was gracious enough to share his files for the feed knob, spring followers, and parabolic plug. I fashioned a feed plug together with an aluminum disconnect shaft shroud chunk, a combination of glue, and my prints.

I took the first feed plug that failed to print, and I sawed the small nub off. I pressed the nub into the extended knob. I slipped this shaft over the nub and super glued it. I then slipped the parabolic plug on. Works super slick. I was planning on spring feeeding it but it naturally fed 4 down the barrel when I quick tried it so i may leave it Stock class.

Im not sure if its my printer or my designing, but everything fit tight together and had to be sanded to fit in a few spots.

[BrickHaus]

Next weekend is my local big game. Im really hoping to refocus on this, get it usable. And get some Gs with it.

I mounted the 12ie holders. The top holes are a hard wood 10-32 anchor. The bottom are glued and hammered in 10-32 plastic heat inserts. I couldn't fit 2x hard woods side by side. The bottom holes are through, and they lined up perfectly. I glued the drill shavings into the stock transition. Also put a full length drive spring into the her, not sure how its going to rack. Hoping to sand and seal the stock this weekend. Then its a few final touches to make it field ready.