Wood related questions for WALZ

[BrickHaus]

With the recent influx of WALZ sharing how to's. I hope this is an appropriate thread to start vs Pms,. Many members may benefit from this so I figured simply make a thread.

Wally. I have a few questions regarding wood working, and after care. Im sure I'll have more as time passes, but for now.


1. For us members with your art in hand. How do we go about keeping it pristine?

My pirate handle is getting hazy from my oily skin I presume, Ive wiped it down with a dry and then damp cloth, to see if its just still dirty, and it seems I could give it some love.

Can I use something like murphys wood oil on it? Or linseed oil to shine it back up?


2. For us aspiring to build stocks.

2.a. What are the general parameters for size we typically need it seems like (x) long x 3" wide × 8 tall would make just about any stock?

can you tell us what sizes you look for to make sure there's enough meat for all of them curves?

2.b. I noticed both my pirate, and the walnut stock I'm currently working on are 2 pieces glued together down the middle. Or one piece, cut, flipped, and glued to change grain direction. Is that valid? What 2 faces do you glue when you do that you manage to get the grain matched up well.

i assume this is for strength mainly? Or do you do it to get good grain on both sides?

Have you had success widdling a single chunk of wood down into a stock?



Sorry for the 21 questions. Ill have more. I hope to get stock making down so more friens can be pirates.

[JeepDVLZ45]

These are all great questions!

I’ve been trying to figure out the width I need to start with (I was thinking 2.5”

[WALZ]

Hope this helps...

1)
on on most of the stocks I make I use boiled linseed oil... So just another rub in should do the trick... a couple of drops on your fingers is enough... I use burlap to burnish between coats as it heats up fast and makes a nice tight finish..
due this once a week for a month and once a month for a year and start over.... you cannot give her to many coats..
just be sure it's dry between coats...

2) For a rifle stock I like between 19-32"s depending if its pump or bolt action
as far a a rough cut piece I like to buy Between 1/12 (bare minimum ) to 2" thick piece..
Six (minimum) to eight inches wide is about right for all rifles...

pirates are good at six inches in width...

2a)
I like to use full thickness at 1/2" to 2"s but it's hard to find up here in the ole pgp mountains so most of them are two 3/4" thick pieces glued together...
I try to keep the grain upward or level with the forearm as that is where the wood can drop off tip of stock if grain go downward..

3) it's my favorite way to make one....

4) we have many herei into wood... there are probably better ways but this the way I do it...

[WALZ]

On the boiled linseed oil use it "very sparingly "or it will not dry properly... rub it with your fingers until it absorbs all the oil.

[WALZ]

Tung oil is probably better and it dries faster....

[WALZ]

For those who are wood workers please give us your opinions.....

[AnarchicArctic]

Good tips here Wally. I also use the board method.
• Clamp them and cut them to match.
•Make a shape template on oak tag, transfer it to what will be the outside board faces of the stock.
• For a phantom stock I also transfer to the interior faces, over lay a phantom frame with a long threaded rod inserted in the grip screw, trace and chisel a rough inlet for the grip frame tab, screw and retaining washer on each face.
•Then I rough and apply glue to both interior faces but instead of clamping I screw the boards together. One screw every 1 1/2” or so around the perimeter of the exterior stock layout, 1” to the outside of the line. use screws short enough not to push through, lay it flat to dry.
•I use a jigsaw to rough out template lines and then rasp/belt sand to shape.



with enough prep and a little luck you can get the grain to line up well enough to fool the eyes at a glance.

[WALZ]

Nicely done there. Really like how you did the grip area..

[AnarchicArctic]

Thanks Wally

[BrickHaus]

Yeah this is awesome!

[XEMON]

I have a access to sole old (really OLD) teak plank ... they would be just the right size ... anyone make a stock out of teak?

PS: Those plank were used for flooring in shipping train car back in the days, those specific ones were saved by my father in law 50+ years ago from scrapped/retired cars ...

[WALZ]

I love the teak also... if you are going to work with it wear a mask for sure and long sleeves as it can be fairly toxic to work with...
Google "is teak wood toxic..."

[jeramiej]

Great comment on the mask, should wear all the time, as small dust particles will float in the air. Even wood not hazardous could cause allergy flare-up or have unhealthy spores growing in the wood. I prefer wood that has inclusions and spalting for better looks, but that means lots unknown nasties in there. But they look great finished!

[BrickHaus]

How many ha have x? You fixing to sell any?

[jeramiej]

Great info here.

Walz, Have you cut your boiled linseed oil? I like the 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 thinner and 1/3 wipe on poly for wood projects. Have also dabbled with shellac mixtures too, dissolving the shellac flakes.

[WALZ]

I thin the first two or three coats with a 50/40 linseed oil and thinner but have never tried the poly or the others...

will have to try it out... always ready to learn something new....