Dan Sergison just let me know that he should have brass k-frames in stock within the next week.
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Brass K-Frames
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He didn’t give me price yet, I didn’t think to ask either, I just told him to let me know as soon as they are ready. I basically need one for Cosmos so…
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Originally posted by Chemical-x.....ahain View PostI'm looking for one to place on my painter.
But I'm not sure how to distinguish. Is it just in the length of the front mount?
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Will this identify what sort of grip id be looking for from Sergison?
A question.
In regards to the removal of the stock.
I couldn't get the cap head screw to come out, it turns but it doesn't back out. The flush head did come out though, am I missing something? And should I have two flush mount screws or is it this correct to have a cap and a flush mount?
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Nasty painter with spring feed.1 Photo
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Let me ask you this though.. how are you going to supply air after your k frame swap? the k frame will not have ASA support with its round but in the grip. Do you will need to re think something. 12ies or a tank present different challenges. I'd recommend a bucket changer where the steel braid is as a k frame is leans towards a pistol rig.
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The flush mount does come out, the cap can turn but does not seem to back out. The SS set screw look to just be a plug in the wood however it may make contact with the sear for tuning purposes.
I did have a KP2 long ago but sadly sadly to leave my collection. I did pickup K frame from Chef Dave that fit correctly, however I believe I understand that this is lower tube is not laid out the same.
Anyway.
I am looking to do a few things with this and the K-frame is a big aspect.
I'm hoping I can carry forward but if I can't I am still going to be happy with this sweet piece.
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Man thats a beauty.
The flat head screw just spins? Im pretty sure the flat head should be whats holding the shooter to the stock. Weird it just spins.. you sure it didnt back out and is just captured by the wood? The braided line may be holding it all together enough too.
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The issue as far as I understand with the layout out will be that the front hole on this is likely a through hole in the lower tube of the body. Then there is a pringle screw running from inside to create a male stud. Then a female standoff is threaded to said stud. Your stock is likely threaded into the stand off.
You get this all apart and spacing is all fine and dandy, but the k frame wants to mount to a female thread.. The thread cert (or cart valve in some cases) you are going to likely have to find a way adapt the frame there.
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