That’s going to be a ton of weight even more forward then it already is on a k-frame it’s going to be hard to aim.
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Understood, k frames can be built with a bottom line mount. Looking for a swing T or L stock that would get me back to proper spacing.
The biggest hurdle right now is figuring the ASA and possibility of a different frame.
Should this not happen I'm not gonna be upset, i do really like it as is.
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Ok, so Kseries (KP, KP2, KP3) rifles and scratch-built PPS brass share the same valve core location and hammer travel. Their hammer travel is nearly an inch longer than P-series brass, so the mounting location for the front grip screw is in a different spot, necessary because of the valve positioning.
The green circle shows where the frame mounts to on a Kseries - the red circle shows where it would be on a P-series. As you can see, the red circle is around a solder location - if you were to drill/tap there, you'd hit the valve chamber.
If you want to install a K-frame on your Painter, you'll need a Palmer spec frame, and a threadsert (or something with threads) in the area I circled in green.
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Jordan nailed it. here's a quick picture side by side, p-series on top, standard k-series in the middle (actually c-series but they're the same), and palmer's (in this case an automated k-series but they're the same). for your front frame screw you'd either have to install a nursert or see if a nursert ring (iirc bacci has them in stock) can squeeze in there.1 Photo
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Thank you.
I never did get the stock free from the body.
I was out a few weeks back and I found a scabbard, while the painter does fit, the ASA interferes with secure stowing in the scabbard. I am hoping to return to working with the project however i think id be happy with a tank mounted to the bottom of the stock or better would be creating a partial pocket into the bottom of the stock.
Is there still a resident craftsman that might be interested in such an endeavor?
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