68-AT questions: seals, springs & all things O-rings

[Hutbrew]

PM’d XEMON on this, since he owns half the stickied threads in the Sheridan Topic- but figured I would tap into everyone’s gray matter:

I’m picking up a PMI 68-AT locally- doesn’t look like it’s been used in the past decade or so- I’ve been trying to find rebuild / Oring information.

if I have both cocker and Tippmann master oring kits, can I assume I’ve got the parts to get these running?

I was also going to order springs from Palmers website- I assume they take the same hammer springs as PGP / early Pre2k ?

I know I can probably find all the info on my own eventually, or after tearing the marker down- but figure I’d reach out to the community

thanks!

*Also can I use the internals oring guide stickied thread for the 68-AT? All the diagrams on here seem to cover 12g based power sources, not BBA/LB/CA. I’m unsure if there’s really too much of any internal difference between all these.

again, thanks fellas!

[JeeperCreeper]

If it's a CA model (constant air, side tapped) they usually only have a 014 oring inside. The cup seals usually don't need to be replaced unless they are leaking. You need the Sheridan valve tool to take it apart.

Any particular reason you're looking for a new hammer spring? They don't usually need to be replaced. Yes they take P-series springs PGPs, P-68's ect.

The internal guide will still give you a general idea on how the valve goes back together, but the CA models usually have less parts that come out. Alot of them have that valve spacer section that will stay in the body, so just the nut, the valve body, valve pin, and spring come out. Sometimes there is also a brass plate in there to hold the other side of the spring in place.

[Hutbrew]

It is back bottle-
I’ll probably try running bottom line at some point

[JeeperCreeper]

netsurferdude2 also has adapter plates to use cocker trigger frames on Sheridans, making a bottom line easier

[Hutbrew]

I’m just now remembering had asked netsurferdude2 for a bolt-action bolt a few months back- then we stopped chatting…
Hope he hasn’t been sitting on it waiting on me!

Now i’m going to have to hit him up!

[chplnstone]

jc nailed it, here's a quick pic of the internals layout 12vie vs. ca. you'll need a valve tool with the threaded core pulling end as the core can't be driven out. if the velocity is slightly low/spring isn't toast it can be shimmed or drilled/tapped for rva, otherwise any p-series spring will fit

[Hutbrew]

Autococker valve tools don’t happen to work, do they? Cocker retaining screws use hex- Sheridan is square?

The image is super helpful!

Thanks!

[Hutbrew]

I’m realizing that I’ve got several Sheridan valves now- I picked up a lot of like 8 various valves (from eBay I believe)

and above post I think meant “jam nut screws” not valve retaining screw

[JeeperCreeper]

You can make a tool:

https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/paintball-news-aa/the-armory/sheridan/269704-sheridan-valve-tool

[chplnstone]

pics of the valves? :-D

[Hutbrew]

chplnstone

i guess “several” = 3 lol- one may even have remnants of an old broken piercer point

[Hutbrew]

If any one wants the little silver eblade noid holder things in the bottom right (idk if that’s even what they are tbh) I’ll mail it for cost of shipping

[Hutbrew]

And on further inspection- I don’t think my “Sheridan” valves have threading…. Hmmm

[Jordan]

Pretty confident you've got Cocker valves there. They're a touch smaller in diameter than a Sheridan valve, so they'll fit, but they might not seal up.

[Hutbrew]

Gotcha- they were listed as “early autococker valves” thanks for letting me know they don’t seal- cuz my newb brain would’ve gone and tried 😂