I see some posts about pounding the piercing end of the valve out with a dowel - but it sounds like the valve and spring are already out. my son and i made the valve tool tonight and successfully got the valve nut out. we can see the lead seal... whats the thread on the valve - it looks like bacci's valve tool threads onto it. whats the homebrew work-around for that?
-
-
Pounding it for m the other side with a dowl is the "homebrew workaround" π
Nothing is threaded to the body except the ring with the square hole.Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...
XEMON's phantom double sided feed
Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
My Feedback -
I usually use a pick to get the lead seal out first (they don't need to be reinstalled) and then the valve comes out much easier. Most of the time a light smack against something solid is enough to get it moving.Comment
-
A Sheridan valve tool has two ends. One with the square bit for removing the valve nut, the other is threaded to screw onto the valve and pull it out and is also used when putting it back in.Originally posted by Drcemento View Post
1. Remove the lead seal with a pick, don't worry if you damage it since it is not reused.
2. Tap the back of the body gently on the workbench (I usually wrap mine in a piece of leather belt) and the valve will usually come free and drop out with the stem and spring.
3. To get the 12gr seal assembly out, I usually insert a spent 12-gram and use a dowel against that to tap the assembly free, and then it will come out the rear of the body.
Brute force isn't needed, just gentle taps......
Good luck,
Walker
Comment
-
-
I use a 1/4" brass rod to hammer the components out. I put it right on the face seal and give it some taps with the hammer. As others have said, remove that lead seal. Also if it feels like its hung up, flip it over and tap it back in, the o ring might be catching inside.Comment
Comment