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    Need a bit of help

    I recent picked up a PGP, and have been tearing through it but need some help with a few things.
    I've gotten almost the whole thing apart expect for the face seal portion of the valve and the front sight post. Do I just tap the front of the valve out? and is there a way to get the front sight off without damaging it?
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    #2
    For the front of the valve, put a spent 12g in there and tap it out.

    From the sight post, it should have a small hex base, a crescent wrench works great. Or, do you have to take it out?
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      #3
      When removing the face seal, I'll typically tap it out using a wood dowel rod. If I don't have one handy, a barrel swab can work too. You really just want something stiff, but softer than the metal you're trying to tap out.
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      • netsurferdude2

        netsurferdude2

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        I use a 1/4" wooden dowel as well.

      #4
      Originally posted by XEMON View Post
      For the front of the valve, put a spent 12g in there and tap it out.

      From the sight post, it should have a small hex base, a crescent wrench works great. Or, do you have to take it out?
      ​​​​​
      I mean, I don't have to but I want to clean the top tube it's pretty filthy. Also, the front of the valve seems to be in there pretty well, but I'll see if I can tap it out when I have time. Thanks!
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        #5
        Ok quick little update, I managed to get the rest of the valve out and rebuilt it with a palmers kit. I only have two 12 grams on hand, they had some trouble piercing, when I got one to, it wouldn't seat right and leaked from the side of the body (someone drilled a hole in it to pop out stuck 12 grams) the gun still shot fine, just wouldn't hold air, my main guess is that the 12 gram knob isn't pushing the cartridge forward enough to seal properly, it rattle when I shake it. Does anyone else know what it could be?
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          #6
          I’ve had issues with several PPS pierce pins not being long enough to reliably puncture a 12-gram. Quality control really seems to be slipping on these.
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            #7
            Originally posted by lizardking132 View Post
            Ok quick little update, I managed to get the rest of the valve out and rebuilt it with a palmers kit. I only have two 12 grams on hand, they had some trouble piercing, when I got one to, it wouldn't seat right and leaked from the side of the body (someone drilled a hole in it to pop out stuck 12 grams) the gun still shot fine, just wouldn't hold air, my main guess is that the 12 gram knob isn't pushing the cartridge forward enough to seal properly, it rattle when I shake it. Does anyone else know what it could be?
            What kind of 12 gram knob do you have? I think some are a single piece, and others are a two piece with an aluminum 'pusher' bit held in place with a screw.
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              #8
              Make sure there is only the one seal for the valve body on the 12g side. If someone left an old seal on there, it stacks up the distance. That might explain the plug not being long enough as well. Once the 12g presses up against the seal properly, it has a better chance of piercing. Stiff valve springs can make the 12g more difficult to pierce. The real borderline is when you have to point the marker straight down to pierce. 😬
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                #9
                Do you have to screw the co2 knob all the way in to the body..

                and if so, does the co2 cartridge seal firmly or is this when you hear it rattling a bit when you shake it.
                First check and make sure that the valve is correctly installed with no extra o rings stuck inside..
                Then
                if the above is true, then what you need to do is shim the co2 knob.
                if it is a two piece knob then unscrew them and add a smalll washer or two and screw back together.
                this should work great.
                if you have a one piece knob you can drill and tap a hole on the co2 side and screw in a screw to give you the added length you need..
                i like it when the knob fully tightens a bout 1/8" from fully screwed in...
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                  #10
                  I ended up adding a decent size washer to the co2 knob, it works great! That probably was a really simple fix but I know literally nothing about old brass sheridans. Speaking of knowing nothing, is there a specific spring you guys would recommend using with a RVA? Thanks!
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                    #11
                    Originally posted by lizardking132 View Post
                    I ended up adding a decent size washer to the co2 knob, it works great! That probably was a really simple fix but I know literally nothing about old brass sheridans. Speaking of knowing nothing, is there a specific spring you guys would recommend using with a RVA? Thanks!
                    If you already have a standard/stock spring. I'd just chuck a 1/4" ball bearing or 2, behind the spring. But, If you crank it up too much, it probably won't be able to cock. 😉
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                    • lizardking132

                      lizardking132

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                      Put a ball bearing behind the hammer right? I think I've seen that done before

                    • Carp

                      Carp

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                      Between the hammer spring and the RVA.... like this... Valve, hammer, hammer spring, ball bearing, then RVA. 😉

                    • lizardking132

                      lizardking132

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                      I meant hammer spring my bad

                    #12
                    Anyone have experience turning a normal back cap into a RVA?
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                    • Carp

                      Carp

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                      Drill press, bench vise and a thread tap...drill from the inside out...tap it outside in...😉

                    • Spider!

                      Spider!

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                      And stop tapping a little short of through, so that you can never run the screw in too far.
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