TR.68 blender.. i mean, revolver

[ElectricBullshark]

Ok i got a umarex tr 68 a little bit ago, used it at a field, and it is basically a splatter snot launcher with a barrel. I think one ball made it out of the barrel.

Any tips, tricks, or mods, etc. known to correct this issue? Right now its basically a piece of belt candy that scares noobs, or a good way to practice cleaning a marker.

[nak81783]

Hopefully others can chime in on fixes.

However, my experience has been if it’s not specifically marketed solely for paintball (any talk of self defense, less lethal, etc.), it’s not going to work. The exceptions are the clones of actual paintball pistols (TiPx, FSC, Menace), provided they have provisions to adjust the velocity or are factory set to typical paintball velocity.

I recently tried some - Umarex PPQ 43, Umarex HDP50, Mercury Rise MUB50, and Lancer Scorpion 50. The only one that works is the Lancer Scorpion, because it’s a Menace clone.

If you bought it on Amazon, and it’s within the return window, send it back as defective for breaking paint (it says it can shoot it).

Stick to TiPX, FSC, Menace/Scorpion, JT ER2 (seems a lot of guys have fun with these for being just a cheap pump pistol), or the older stuff marketed strictly for paintball that’s no longer produced, e.g., AGD Sydarm, PGP, PT Extreme (or other variants), etc. Know that pistols are relatively hard on paint to begin with, so it’s best to use field grade paint or do a bounce test (drop paintballs from various heights onto concrete) to determine what it can handle. For example, my TiPX was breaking mid-level paint but did fine on field grade (but field grade bounced off opponents too much for my liking, especially when I’m handicapping myself playing with a pistol). I found as long as the mid-level could survive a drop from shoulder height, it was fine. If the paint from that batch/bag/case broke below shoulder height, it would break in the marker. Make sure you test at the temp and humidity of your playing conditions.

[BrickHaus]

its pretty much a fsr only shooter imo.

[The Inflicted]

More discussion here, but no one's been able to address the ball breakage problem yet. https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...-68#post529915

[nak81783]

More discussion here, but no one's been able to address the ball breakage problem yet. https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...-68#post529915

I’ll admit I perused that but didn’t read all of it. If it’s cylinder alignment or barrel ID smaller than cylinder holes issue, is there meat on the ID of the barrel to ream or bore it open and put a generous lead in taper/chamfer?

This may help if velocity adjustment (assuming one trying to use this for paintball has installed some means of adjusting velocity) isn’t touched before and after. However, if after increasing the ID of the barrel, velocity is adjusted upwards, it may be too hard of an initial impact on the ball and break the paint anyway.

I need to review the comments and proposed fixes for the rollback issue discussed in that thread when I’m at a computer.

[The Inflicted]

I’ll admit I perused that but didn’t read all of it. If it’s cylinder alignment or barrel ID smaller than cylinder holes issue, is there meat on the ID of the barrel to ream or bore it open and put a generous lead in taper/chamfer?

This may help if velocity adjustment (assuming one trying to use this for paintball has installed some means of adjusting velocity) isn’t touched before and after. However, if after increasing the ID of the barrel, velocity is adjusted upwards, it may be too hard of an initial impact on the ball and break the paint anyway.

I need to review the comments and proposed fixes for the rollback issue discussed in that thread when I’m at a computer.

The problem is bolt intrusion into the cylinder. The gun works kind of like an unregulated automag and the bolt rushes forward so far into the cylinder with such speed and force that it normally destroys every paintball it contacts.

[nak81783]

The problem is bolt intrusion into the cylinder. The gun works kind of like an unregulated automag and the bolt rushes forward so far into the cylinder with such speed and force that it normally destroys every paintball it contacts.

Interesting. The HDP50 and MUB50 work the same way. They broke paint, but it was always due to poor feeding. As long as I ensured the ball properly fed (wearing a mask and looking down the barrel), they never broke paint, even above 350fps.

Now, those are both 50 cals, and I think 50 cal paint is harder to break than 68 cal, all else being equal - brand, grade, shell thickness, etc.

[nak81783]

The Inflicted OK, I read through that other thread. Focusing on the bolt impact, it looked like any consumable spacer, tissue paper, etc. was installed ahead of the ball to keep it against the bolt, such that the bolt makes contact with the ball before it builds any momentum to smack it.

However, based on your comment above about bolt intrusion, I was thinking to install a consumable/expendable foam behind the ball. It may cushion the impact and act like a wad to increase efficiency (prevent barrel blow by), allowing velocity to be set lower (again assuming one has such means installed), which would further reduce bolt energy. Would such foam stay in the extra unloaded cylinders until installed in the marker, or would they fall out?

The above is pretty much the opposite of my first suggestion to open the barrel ID that would reduce efficiency, requiring a higher velocity adjustment, and increasing bolt energy. Sounds like no one has had problems with the barrel being too small anyway.

Still not sure if cylinder alignment to barrel plays any part, but it didn't seem so from the other thread.

[capitalpaintball]

It is bolt intrusion. I spent many hours modding the bolt with shims so it wouldn't enter the magazine so far. problem is this greatly reduces the air being dumped, so the velocity drops. after other modification i got he velocity up some but still not where i would like. but it doesn't break balls.