If anyone wants some pushfit t-union fittings, DM me. I have four I’m never going to use. I put them in my own mech ion build.
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So you want to build a Mechanical Ion?
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If I had a Gog Trigger frame and valve could the who thing just be bolted on to an Ion? Thinking I could have to separate the Ion vASA from the frame, and create opening to run hose into gog frame, but any major road blocks? Not having all the parts in front of me leaves me guessing at things.
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Originally posted by JCC View PostIf I had a Gog Trigger frame and valve could the who thing just be bolted on to an Ion? Thinking I could have to separate the Ion vASA from the frame, and create opening to run hose into gog frame, but any major road blocks? Not having all the parts in front of me leaves me guessing at things.
I have both a v1 and v2 eNMEy, and an Ion. So feel free to ask if you'd like any pictures or have more questions or anything.
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Awesome. I was thinking since the vASA of the Ion has its own screw to hold it in place could just hack saw that part off the frame. Grinder and sand it to get a nice finish. Then just run hose from that back to the eNMEy frame. The eNMEy vASA is not part of the frame right? So just use the Ion one held by the screw from the top, and hose would run back to gog frame and valve. Trying to find a cheap 50 can eNMEy to use parts from.
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Correct, the eNMEy vasa isn't connected to the frame. The top is rounded and sits against the internal body. That's why most people just Dremel out that spot on the ion body.
Should be an easy mod your way too, though. Having the VASA off of the ion frame and mating it to the eNMEy frame.
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I have been trying to contact Stanchy to get an oring added to a stock bolt, but they are not responding to email and my Facebook messages don’t appear to go through. I ordered a part through the website and it arrived, but can’t seem to get someone to tell me the process for the bolt. Any ideas?
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Ok, what about the line from the SMAV valve to the front banjo. The front banjo has a larger barb than the cocker hosing used on the valve. Do I need some sort of adapter or is there a different banjo fitting for the front I can get?
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Ok, I ordered all the parts, I put together what I have. I aired it up and the bolt goes forward when first gassed up and stays there even when I push the valve button. What am I doing wrong?
Hosing
SP1 Bolt
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It did this with the sp1 mechanical noid I had until it cracked. Do I have the hoses correct? Is the SP1 bolt ok to use? Does it need modified or anything?
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Does the bolt stay back when you pull and hold the trigger? You may have the hoses mixed up. And the SP1 bolt is fine as long as it has two tail o-rings.
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I tried activating the smav valve and the bolt stays forward. I tried switching the lines and the bolt won't move even when activating the smav valve. Not sure what is wrong, is there any trouble shooting threads for the ion/sp1 platform?
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Received a thrashed ion in a $10 lot over the summer. I finally got around to fielding my mech ion, third time was the charm. First two times it worked at home the night before and then not at the field. Shortened up some hoses and it was perfect. I even added the second oring to the bolt this week. Worked great, thanks for this fantastic thread.
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Wanted to throw out another option for a SMAV mount that I found recently. It utilizes the slot for the electronics
Mount for modifying your Smart Parts Ion with a Clippard SMAV valve. This mount fits into the grooves for the factory circuit board. No set screws required.
On another note, though - has anyone tried using a GMEK 3-way instead of a smav? I've got a mech Ion on the brain and have never used a smav so I don't know if it could easily be replaced by something slightly more modern, with a lighter pull, or shorter pull. I assume the two ports on top of the gmek 3-way could be tapped for barbs or ptc fittings.Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
“You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.“
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Originally posted by lhamilton1807 View PostWanted to throw out another option for a SMAV mount that I found recently. It utilizes the slot for the electronics
Mount for modifying your Smart Parts Ion with a Clippard SMAV valve. This mount fits into the grooves for the factory circuit board. No set screws required.
On another note, though - has anyone tried using a GMEK 3-way instead of a smav? I've got a mech Ion on the brain and have never used a smav so I don't know if it could easily be replaced by something slightly more modern, with a lighter pull, or shorter pull. I assume the two ports on top of the gmek 3-way could be tapped for barbs or ptc fittings.
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This. My Dye framed single trigger was almost comparable to my CVO, just wasn't as crisp of a pull. It's even better on my rifle build, which I used an airsoft trigger box and gained the leverage for one of the most amazing trigger pulls out there, and also a safety. The trigger box has a long arm inside of it that I just positioned the valve underneath. It's about 1.5mm of trigger pull, and it had a nice positive "click."
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The SMAV-3 is easy to use as it has barb fittings for hoses. I don't think the Gmek valve has threaded holes to put barbs in, so you'd have to make a custom manifold.
Intimidator solenoids have threaded ports and a very short throw manual button on them, so I'm planning on using one I have lying around for an experimental build when I have the time to machine some parts.
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Right, that’s why I suggested they’d need to be tapped. I like your idea of Timmy noid. Looking forward to the results.
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Ah yeah, sorry missed that. Also, I didn't realize the two holes near the edge of the block were just mounting holes and the two ports you mentioned were the middle holes, so plenty of space for tapping threads. That does seem like a pretty good option.
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