Maybe I'll try the Freak next. I was using a J&J edge, and it just did better on my old one.
I had a great problem, though - paint was .685, so none of my Freak inserts were big enough!
Boring the breech
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I did need to swap to the CO2 springs for 12g play. I tried having Lee Spring make me some but they weren’t as effective as the ones specifically designed for the Sterling. I didn’t realize they didn’t come with the proper springs to use 12g. But after getting the right spring in it, it shoots great. I haven’t noticed any real issues with the breach design. It’s not hard on paint at all and gets a decent shot count. I do like the longer barrel over the stock. The stock one is so short it makes aiming it hard. I use the barrel tip for reference when aiming with the stock barrel it’s hidden by the handle while behind the marker. The longer tip gives me a much better perspective making it much easier to point.Leave a comment:
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I think, as time allows (so never?
) I'll make a custom lower tube. I already bought a scratched up T2 upper sans bolt. I'm considering some "tweaks" to the lower tube, just to make ergonomic changes, but I'm pretty content with the working bits inside.
One of these days I need to save all my PTO then send my family on a long vacation with the inlaws while I hang out at the machine shop.Leave a comment:
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Not a whole lot of material between the upper and lower bores to drill/tap and hold securely.. that was the big reason why custom lower tubes were made to accommodate a T2 upper tube....
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Just to put this out there...
Last weekend I shot a brand new STP, and a janky old Bronze. On the bronze, i had plugged the feedneck, moved it forward, and made a longer bolt so it chambers straight into the barrel.
Using the same barrel throughout the day, the janky sterling was the better shot, by far. I convinced myself it makes a difference. Now it's just a question of whether I bore it for an insert, or cut the whole top tube off and throw a T2 top half on there.Leave a comment:
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You're inspiring me 😅
When I get mine going I'll bore the breach and only bore the barrel just deep enough.
I'm gonna have to do the same thing for the phoenix anyway 😅Leave a comment:
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Not enough meat between the tubes, unfortunately. Maybe with a skinny Spyder barrel like an old J&J, but even that would be marginal.
A custom cut-down Freak back is probably the best route so at least there are options for fronts, but my plan is to bore and port the stock barrel, and maybe one aftermarket, and just keep those with the gun. Not too different from having an old Sterling with its weird threads.Leave a comment:
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Could the body just re-bored and threaded deeper in so the ball is loaded into the end of the barrel then any Spyder threaded freak barrel would work without the insert sticking out? Or better yet settle for Autococker threads then the barrel availability sky rockets?Leave a comment:
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No, nothing yet. First gun I've bought new since high school, so I'm going to finish some other projects before it goes under the knife.Leave a comment:
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Did anything ever happen with this idea? The other fix that I thought off would include machining the hammer catch and the main arm to allow a longer pump stroke, mixed with a longer boltLeave a comment:
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That makes more sense I knew I was missing something, just was not sure what.Leave a comment:
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Almost...I just purchased a Spyder freak back and then ordered this tip to use xl inserts.
https://ansgear.com/core-14-freak-to...89-dust-black/
I think I'm reading the thread correctly and this what the original poster is trying to do? Use freak xl tips with the new Spyder threaded Sterling.
I want to seat an insert partially in the barrel, partially in the body of the gun. A barrel with 4.25" of bore would leave .75" of insert in the gun; boring the breech would let that insert go right up to the bolt face.
In theory, it would be more forgiving of brittle paint and provide more control over how the paint begins its trip down the barrel.Leave a comment:
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