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**MrBarraclough** · 08-04-2021, 08:15 PM

Originally posted by Hobbes View Post

The best way to modernize a Pro-Lite is to replace it with an Emek.

Now THAT is definitely something r/paintball would say.

**Euphie** · 08-06-2021, 11:27 PM

So I finally got around to testing the pro-lite with air. It leaks down the barrel when It isn’t cocked, but once cocked it seems to cycle fine on HPA, though it feels like it has a bit more kick backwards than it needs, I figure as long as I can get enough velocity out of it then then having a bit much recock is probably fine right?

It doesn’t have nearly as much force in the action as my old .68 special but, it’ll do for nostalgia’s sake I suppose.

**Chappy** · 08-07-2021, 12:16 PM

Big hammers gonna hammer.

**Myrkul** · 08-09-2021, 02:28 PM

Originally posted by Fubarius View Post

Cast metal frame was the Pro-Am, the "Lite" in Pro-Lite was for the lighter plastic frame and foregrip.

There is a part of the Pro-Lite that people tend to forget about when tuning. Everyone knows about the powertube choke velocity adjuster, nearly everyone knows that occasionally you need to swap the main spring, quite a few know that the valve spring might be fiddled with to change performance.

But everyone forgets about the valve stop.

So on a Pro-Lite the valve has two valve pins, one on the front, one on the back. When hit by the hammer the valve gets sandwiched between the hammer and powertube, which opens both valves, sending gas out the front to fire the ball and out the back to recock the gun. Now with out the valve stop (bit of metal that fits into a groove on the valve) both ends open equally. But the Pro-Lite actually needs a bit more gas for recock than for firing. The valve stop, well, stops the valve from moving forward too much, allowing the back to get opened a bit more.

Now a long while back I was helping a local shop refurbish a bunch of former rental Pro-Lites and many were missing the valve stop. After a good cleaning, where the valve could now move smoothly in the body tube, many of those had the same issue. Plenty of velocity, not enough recock. We found we could tune the recock/velocity ratio by using different thicknesses of valve stops. Too thick and it would recock like a champ but have little velocity. Too thin and you'd get plenty of velocity, but not enough recock. For you guys with lots of old school parts, an automag sear cut into little rectangles with a dremel, made the perfect thickness of valve stop.

And old guns tended to have a build up of rust, dirt, paint, and other crud on the valve stop (if present), which made the valve stop effectively thicker, so more and more recock but less and less velocity.

I tried this with mine and it refused to chrono over 250 FPS on HPA regardless of the trigger plate used. Recocked fine with both plates. All internals were polished and the valve spring was lightened.

**Brokeass_baller** · 05-09-2022, 02:40 AM

This update came at the perfect time. I picked up two Pro-Lite's off of the 'Bay for a decent deal, and now I get to dig in and mess around with them. They're both in good shape, but were untested. I plan on using them for CO2 renegade play (the small time compressor we have is pretty unreliable, and the local scuba air fills are unnecessarily expensive). But it would be great to get these able to operate on both nitro and CO2.

**Toestr** · 05-11-2022, 11:10 PM

Is there anything special about the valve stop or would I be able to make one by filing down a square nut?

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Pro-lite modernization question

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