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**Trbo323** · 02-07-2023, 02:42 AM

This sounds more like a battery connection issue to me. Smacking the marker may have worked to resolve that as well. You may have a split in a wire or a terminal tab may not be contacting the battery well enough (I don't remember which that marker uses)

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**Toestr** · 02-07-2023, 03:03 AM

Originally posted by Trbo323 View Post

This sounds more like a battery connection issue to me. Smacking the marker may have worked to resolve that as well. You may have a split in a wire or a terminal tab may not be contacting the battery well enough (I don't remember which that marker uses)

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I don't think so. I had the same thought so I tried unplugging the battery with the gun on and the lights faded out slowly as what was stored in the capacitor was used. With this issue the lights just shut right off (like flipping the selector switch). Also tapping on/shimming the board only works for the upper front part of the board where (I assume) the Hall effect sensor is located.

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**BrickHaus** · 02-07-2023, 06:29 AM

Try looking for a cold joint on the hall effect sensors themselves. If one has a cold joint, you may be able to simply re heat it and give a smidge more lead to it bond it back together.

i assume the selector switch has little grub screws on it to trigger the hall effects? Maybe back them out slightly to get closer to the sensors?

**Toestr** · 02-07-2023, 10:18 AM

Originally posted by BrickHaus View Post

Try looking for a cold joint on the hall effect sensors themselves. If one has a cold joint, you may be able to simply re heat it and give a smidge more lead to it bond it back together.

i assume the selector switch has little grub screws on it to trigger the hall effects? Maybe back them out slightly to get closer to the sensors?

How hot and local would the heat have to be? I have a heat gun with a conical tip (still pretty large) would that do it? I also don't know exactly what on the board the HE sensor is.

The selector switch is plastic and the magnet is just friction fit in there. I guess I could try backing the magnet out a bit but iirc the magnet was already kind of loose in there.

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**BrickHaus** · 02-07-2023, 10:29 AM

I havent looked at tippmann cross over b9ards specifically, so Id need a photo, but you want a soldering iron with a fine point to JUST heat your contact if it is a cold joint.

Iirc the crossover has a waterproof coating on the boards which make it harder to achieve.

**Trbo323** · 02-07-2023, 10:47 AM

Originally posted by Toestr View Post

How hot and local would the heat have to be? I have a heat gun with a conical tip (still pretty large) would that do it? I also don't know exactly what on the board the HE sensor is.

That's where my money is. Especially since you have replaced the board already. For a cold shut to be the problem you would have to have 2 boards with the same exact problem. Super unlikely.

I think your initial idea is probably correct, something with the hall effects (hence one reason I don't like them) and in specific the magnet on the selector switch. I'm assuming you didn't change the switch when you got the new board

I used to own a crossover for a hot minute, I was hoping it would be something like a poor man's e mag but it just didn't live up to expectations. So some of this is a little foggy but, the hall effects sensor looks like any other microchip on the board, it's just the closest one to the selector switch

Also, if I remember right, you can take the board out, run the magnet over the sensor and if you do it right the board will still be on, in one of its modes after the magnet is taken away. I would try this because if it works out pretty much points to that magnet being the problem, if not you are no worse off than you are now

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**Toestr** · 02-07-2023, 12:40 PM

I've already replaced the selector switch magnet (not the whole switch). I just super glued the selector magnet as far out as I could so it would be as close as possible to the HE sensor. It ran well for a few minutes then it started up with the same issues.

I changed the battery and when it powers up the battery indicator light will light up either green (fresh battery) or yellow (good voltage). Not sure if that means anything.

When the selector switch is in the on position but the board hasn't turned on it will turn on as soon as I squeeze the section of the board where the HE sensor is. Sometimes it will stay on for a while after I release it and other times it will shut off as soon as I let go.

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**Toestr** · 02-07-2023, 12:59 PM

Also the board will sometimes turn back on by itself after turning off (without touching the board, selector, trigger etc). Give me physical switches for God sakes!

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**Toestr** · 02-07-2023, 02:02 PM

Ok, so I dropped the frame and tried the electronics without the trigger installed to see if the trigger magnet might be causing the issue. I had it on for about 15 minutes and I don't think it turned off once. The trigger magnet is adjusted according to Tippmann's instructions. The manual has a warning against adjusting the upper set screw on the trigger but isn't clear about what issues it may cause. I've emailed Tippmann for clarification. I'm waiting for some parts for it so I'll probably try adjusting the trigger again once I have it all back together.

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**Trbo323** · 02-07-2023, 06:53 PM

Originally posted by Toestr View Post

The trigger magnet is adjusted according to Tippmann's instructions.

This is probably your problem. I would stop ordering parts if I were you I doubt there's anything wrong with any specific part

First off tippmann's instructions are never that clear or good for that matter have you tried programming the board yet? It's crazy how much they complicated the process that didn't need to be complicated so don't put a lot of faith in their instructions

Secondly a lot of that marker is made of plastic so tippman saying something like two turns out on the adjustment screw that doesn't really mean a lot because the tolerances are going to be wild

I would adjust that screw One Way see if it works if not go the other way see if it works. But it does seem like you are narrowing down the problem

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**Toestr** · 02-07-2023, 08:43 PM

I should clarify the parts I'm waiting for are orings and a reg seat. The board and magnet Tippmann sent me for free. So I'm not sinking mass amounts of money into this (although I did initially overpay considering the work I'm having to do to it that the dickhead didn't disclose).

Tippmann's instructions for the trigger were clear; pull the trigger and adjust the screw in until the solenoid clicks then an additional half turn and don't touch the top set screw.

Anyway I will be trying different things with the trigger once I get everything I need for a rebuild.

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**Trbo323** · 02-07-2023, 10:27 PM

Originally posted by Toestr View Post

Tippmann's instructions for the trigger were clear; pull the trigger and adjust the screw in until the solenoid clicks then an additional half turn and don't touch the top set screw.

Yeah no. This is also one of the reasons I don't like hall effects triggers.

Granted I'm not claiming to be some super expert on them but my understanding of them has always been that they sense a magnet PASSING through the field, not necessarily a static magnet. This is why in my opinion hall triggers always feel sloppy. If pulled slowly the activation point is further back in the pull, if pulled quickly it's further forward. No, I haven't done any super science testing to confirm this, just how I've always felt about them

So, having you adjust it while it's basically static is not really that helpful.

When I had mine what I did was adjust the trigger so the electronics activated slightly before the mechanical side took over. This way, if the electronics were on, they were in the driver's seat and if off, the mechanical activation point was a little further in the pull. If you do it wrong you can have it set so the mechanicals are always firing the marker first so the electronics are basically doing nothing (unless in ramping or full auto)

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**Toestr** · 02-08-2023, 02:08 AM

I agree, I definitely prefer micro switches and physical connections for these types of things. But apparently I'm a glutton for punishment so I'll probably keep buying these. Emags are too cool to pass up and Minis with good parts are coming down in price.

With the Crossover I think the selector works by having the sensor see the magnet and the solenoid is tripped by not seeing the trigger magnet (it will fire immediately upon power up with no trigger installed). If your activation point theory is correct, I'd imagine the post travel adjustment of the magnet is to account for that. And I imagine adjusting the pre travel/return screw in too much restricts the trigger magnet from moving close enough to the sensor to register a trigger release. The adjustment on the trigger really isn't meant for personal preference, but to get it to function at all.

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**Toestr** · 02-10-2023, 12:02 PM

Ok, so it seems that the trigger activation magnet is causing the issue.

It will activate the solenoid with the adjustment screw in any position (even without touching the magnet arm). However, it must be pulled very deliberately to the back left. When the magnet is adjusted to a position where the trigger is practical to use is when the issue with the board shutting off begins to arise.

I guess the trigger magnet is interfering with the magnetic field for the selector? Tippmann is sending me a new trigger assembly.

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