Pro carbine oring on valve?

[DeadEwok]

Hey y'all I'm refurbishing some old paintball guns including an autococker Lord save me. Anyway I've been working on my pro-carbine and there's a leak down the barrel so I assumed the o-rings were bad in the valve. I bought a new kit with o-rings and I pulled it all apart and I even got the valve apart. It looked like there was an old black o-ring over the valve stem it was totally destroyed. The kit that I got came with this tiny pink one see the picture. Is that right? Also for the valve reducer does this look like the right o-ring as well? Thanks.

[BrickHaus]

Negative ghost rider. The valve stem is also the seal. The black surface around the edge of that valve stem seats to the face the valve. If you lost that much meat, you need a whole new valve stem. On the bright side.. they are cheap.

[DeadEwok]

Negative ghost rider. The valve stem is also the seal. The black surface around the edge of that valve stem seats to the face the valve. If you lost that much meat, you need a whole new valve stem. On the bright side.. they are cheap.

Awesome, ty! Would that be what's causing it to leak down the barrel? I aired it up and shot it about 30 times then it went full auto so I degassed, aired up again and now it just leaks out the barrel.

[BrickHaus]

http://www.tippmannparts.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=457

Does the leak down the barrel change at all when cocked and or firing? It sure looks like the cup seal is bad in that photo. The replacement is cheap at least. Ive honestly never seen a tippmann cup seal fail though.

[BrickHaus]

Also, look in that valve body. There is likely another valve bit that has the surface this cup seal seats to. Make sure there isn't debris between them.

[Trbo323]

Did you replace the o ring that was underneath this guy? If my memory is correct it's a 012

Don't need any o ring on the valve stem

What's your input pressure?

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[DeadEwok]

Yeah I replace both of those as seen there in the picture. I have a bunch of o-rings and this one appears to be the right match versus what came off. When I cock it it's still leaks down the barrel. And if I fire it just like goes full auto mode. Now I do remember it does that when it's close to running out of air and my tank is getting low however the leak down the barrel is what I'm more concerned with. I did remove the old cup seal and flip it over just to see and I still have a leak. Also the shaft looks slightly bent so I have this sneaking suspicion is probably not sealing. I have a new one coming in the mail we'll see. Thank you so much for the advice any other last minute tips while I wait for the new valve and seal let me know. Edit I also don't know my input pressure. It's just coming off of an HPA tank standard.

[Trbo323]

I would replace that valve stem but it still could be your input pressure, those really like high pressures even just to seal when sitting still

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[DeadEwok]

Alrighty I'll throw the new valve seal and stem in when I get it and turn the pressure up on the thumb screw on the bottom. I don't know of any other way to make the pressure higher? Any idea what size c clip I should buy for the back of that valve? That's stupid spring clip is terrible. I cut myself twice trying to get the damn thing off

[DeadEwok]

Oh one more question sorry. Does this look like the right reducer o-ring the one that goes from the braided hose up into the valve? It's the only one that's remotely close that comes with this o-ring kit that I bought for this specific marker but what came out when I pulled it apart was not that it was this mushed up totally jacked up thicker o-ring so I must not have put the right one in 15 years ago or I don't know. It's the thin one in the picture

[Chappy]

If you do not know the pressure of your hpa tank then you need to find out. If it is not at least 800 then that is likely your problem and everything else is pissing in the wind.

[Brokeass_baller]

I believe you can use a 1/2" c-clip for the valve. Take the spring clip with you to Home Depot to make sure.

*Internal snap ring would be the proper name.

[Chappy]

The reducer oring looks right to me. It is pretty damn thin. And I’ve had luck with random small orings in its place so not surprising there was a different one in there that did the trick.

[Jackson]

I agree. The reducer o-ring size is 1x4.5 (1mm cross-section, 4.5mm ID), Buna 70. It helps to have bunch on hand as they MUST be replaced every time you remove the reducer. They get mangled squished to death on installation. I have had success running without the o-ring and instead wrapping a bunch of Teflon tape over the sealing surface on the reducer. But it is fiddly and prone to leaking unless tightened down a lot. The proper o-ring is the right answer.

[Trbo323]

it and turn the pressure up on the thumb screw on the bottom.

That's a velocity screw it has nothing to do with pressure there is no regulator on those markers unless you install one aftermarket which is fairly pointless because they were designed around fairly high pressures of CO2

The easiest way would be if you have a CO2 tank sitting around plug that in

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[DeadEwok]

Cool thanks for the response in the o-rings gentleman. Also thanks for the response on the pressure. I've been using HPA but maybe I should get a hold of a CO2 tank. I really want to get this gun up and running it's sort of a weird thing but it's very sentimental. My dad and I used to play a lot and he died when I was kind of young and this was his gun. The autococker I'm working on rebuilding in another thread was mine. Now I have a son of my own and he's about paintball age so I want to get my autococker running and give it to my kid and I'll play with the pro carbine.

[Chappy]

Keep us informed, we’ll help you get the ole beast singing.
I ❤️ procarbs and sentimental gun stories.