So in the recent A-5/Pro Carb thread I mentioned doing a trigger job to make the Pro Carbine's pull lighter. Here is the work I did on mine. Nothing special IMO, but if it helps anyone else I'll be happy.
First off, Pro Carbine frame. Obviously, lol.
![](https://i.imgur.com/zpePSlk.jpg)
Take the grips off & remove one side. Here's what the assembly looks like inside. Those of you that have torn into these before have surely noticed a few things about this one.![Wink](https://www.mcarterbrown.com/core/images/smilies/wink.png)
![](https://i.imgur.com/tOlTYTP.jpg)
The first thing I did was polish the sear and trigger, as well as the hammer (not pictured). The hammer was done with sandpaper, starting from something like 400 grit and working my way up to 1000 grit automotive sandpaper. The sear and trigger were done with my Dremel tool and 1000 grit sanding discs. I did some major work on the trigger itself before polishing, which I'll go over later.
What is pictured next is the sear with nylon washers on both sides. The sear as it was from the factory would slide back and forth on it's pin, rubbing the inside of the trigger frame. I took out that side-to-side slop and eliminated any contact with the inside of the frame by applying nylon washers to both sides of the sear. I had to sand down the washers to make them thin enough to fit, but that was easy to do by simply rubbing the washers with my fingertip on some sandpaper.
I've done this with Spyder triggers before, so I just translated that over to the sear in this. There wasn't any room on the pin to do with with the trigger in the Pro Carbine. I also did not do anything with pre- and post-travel. I didn't think I could get an appreciable amount out of it without messing with the resetting of the assembly. And honestly, it's short enough as-is.
![](https://i.imgur.com/rSktuSX.jpg)
Pictured next is the trigger spring. The factory spring is absurdly stiff, so I bought a similar diameter spring. This is where I encountered a lot of trial-and-error. I would cut the spring, bend a loop and install it. I'd then put the frame back together, re-attach it to the marker and air it up. The trigger spring needs a minimum amount of tension in order for the sear & hammer to reset properly, so if it wouldn't recock I'd disassemble it, cut a loop off and bend another end, reassemble it and try again. If I remember properly, I disassembled and reassembled the frame 3 or 4 times before everything would reset properly when aired up. But most of the resistance is only due to the mainspring pushing the hammer into the sear, so I'm happy. This trigger pull isn't as light as a factory 98 Custom, but it's SIGNIFICANTLY lighter than the 20lb pull the Pro Carbine had from the factory.
If you don't want to go through the trial-and-error of making your own spring, I've read in multiple places on the 'net that a SL68-II trigger spring works and is much lighter than the factory Pro Carbine spring.
I've put a couple cases through this paintgun since modding and the homebrew trigger spring has yet to fail.
![](https://i.imgur.com/tKTfVtQ.jpg)
Trigger. This took the most amount of time, as I wanted to change the entire feel and contour of it. I took a lot of meat off it using my bench grinder and Dremel. I did most of the material removal and shaping with the bench grinder, holding onto the trigger with a vice grip. I then used my Dremel and some grinding stones to fine tune the shape of it. To finish, I used a 1000 grit sanding disc in my Dremel.
I might take a little more meat off the sides of the face and round off the back edges of the face, but it's much nicer now than it was before.
![](https://i.imgur.com/bxhu997.jpg)
![](https://i.imgur.com/wfrwXCc.jpg)
Pics of the trigger pulled from the frame.
![](https://i.imgur.com/Uelk9xM.jpg)
![](https://i.imgur.com/yQi9yCe.jpg)
If you have any questions feel free to ask and I'll answer as best I can. Thanks for reading.
First off, Pro Carbine frame. Obviously, lol.
![](https://i.imgur.com/zpePSlk.jpg)
Take the grips off & remove one side. Here's what the assembly looks like inside. Those of you that have torn into these before have surely noticed a few things about this one.
![Wink](https://www.mcarterbrown.com/core/images/smilies/wink.png)
![](https://i.imgur.com/tOlTYTP.jpg)
The first thing I did was polish the sear and trigger, as well as the hammer (not pictured). The hammer was done with sandpaper, starting from something like 400 grit and working my way up to 1000 grit automotive sandpaper. The sear and trigger were done with my Dremel tool and 1000 grit sanding discs. I did some major work on the trigger itself before polishing, which I'll go over later.
What is pictured next is the sear with nylon washers on both sides. The sear as it was from the factory would slide back and forth on it's pin, rubbing the inside of the trigger frame. I took out that side-to-side slop and eliminated any contact with the inside of the frame by applying nylon washers to both sides of the sear. I had to sand down the washers to make them thin enough to fit, but that was easy to do by simply rubbing the washers with my fingertip on some sandpaper.
I've done this with Spyder triggers before, so I just translated that over to the sear in this. There wasn't any room on the pin to do with with the trigger in the Pro Carbine. I also did not do anything with pre- and post-travel. I didn't think I could get an appreciable amount out of it without messing with the resetting of the assembly. And honestly, it's short enough as-is.
![](https://i.imgur.com/rSktuSX.jpg)
Pictured next is the trigger spring. The factory spring is absurdly stiff, so I bought a similar diameter spring. This is where I encountered a lot of trial-and-error. I would cut the spring, bend a loop and install it. I'd then put the frame back together, re-attach it to the marker and air it up. The trigger spring needs a minimum amount of tension in order for the sear & hammer to reset properly, so if it wouldn't recock I'd disassemble it, cut a loop off and bend another end, reassemble it and try again. If I remember properly, I disassembled and reassembled the frame 3 or 4 times before everything would reset properly when aired up. But most of the resistance is only due to the mainspring pushing the hammer into the sear, so I'm happy. This trigger pull isn't as light as a factory 98 Custom, but it's SIGNIFICANTLY lighter than the 20lb pull the Pro Carbine had from the factory.
If you don't want to go through the trial-and-error of making your own spring, I've read in multiple places on the 'net that a SL68-II trigger spring works and is much lighter than the factory Pro Carbine spring.
I've put a couple cases through this paintgun since modding and the homebrew trigger spring has yet to fail.
![](https://i.imgur.com/tKTfVtQ.jpg)
Trigger. This took the most amount of time, as I wanted to change the entire feel and contour of it. I took a lot of meat off it using my bench grinder and Dremel. I did most of the material removal and shaping with the bench grinder, holding onto the trigger with a vice grip. I then used my Dremel and some grinding stones to fine tune the shape of it. To finish, I used a 1000 grit sanding disc in my Dremel.
I might take a little more meat off the sides of the face and round off the back edges of the face, but it's much nicer now than it was before.
![](https://i.imgur.com/bxhu997.jpg)
![](https://i.imgur.com/wfrwXCc.jpg)
Pics of the trigger pulled from the frame.
![](https://i.imgur.com/Uelk9xM.jpg)
![](https://i.imgur.com/yQi9yCe.jpg)
If you have any questions feel free to ask and I'll answer as best I can. Thanks for reading.
![Smile](https://www.mcarterbrown.com/core/images/smilies/smile.png)
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