Pro Carbine Spare Parts

[ThinRizzie]

Heard a lot of good things about procarbs when I was looking for my first marker, so when I saw one online for $10 it was an instant buy.

did a clean/ o ring change but couldn’t figure out a bad leak. Gave it to the tech at the field and they’ve had it for a while. They just let me know that it needs a new valve assembly and they can’t source it, so I’m SOL.

does anyone have any clue where I can source parts for this thing? Or an alternative valve that might work? Maybe it uses the same internals as another marker or something?

thanks in advance. I’d really like to fix this thing instead of just buying another one

[$L!mBo]

second
i need a rear spring and back cap
and fresh seals

[SuperAtomic]

RVA back-cap

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314700721396

Seals

https://tippmannparts.com/products/rpm-ok-delx-pl-2591-deluxe-tippmann-pro-lite-oring-kit-also-fits-pro-lite-pro-am-and-68-carbine

[SuperAtomic]

And some fresh, non-rusty screws.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186534358845

[Toestr]

To my knowledge the drive spring is identical to the 98's.

[Toestr]

The valve is rebuildable.Tippmann uses a flat metal split ring to hold the valve together which is a pain to get off. It's likely the tech considers the whole valve assembly to be a disposable part, but Tippmann does sell the individual components. It's likely both of the 012 orings in the valve went bad. It's very unlikely the cup seal is bad unless the gun is a beat ex rental. Even if it is bad, it uses the same cup seal and brass seat as the 98 and other modern Tippmanns.

Compress the brass plug at the front of the valve until it clears the air inlet and stick a toothpick in to hold it down. Then use a stout pick/thin flathead screwdriver and dig out the split ring (avoid stabbing yourself). Replace the split ring with a 1/2" internal snap ring when reassembling (the flat side of the stamping should face out).

[COB]

Toestr is correct. Like most Tippmann products, they are almost impossible to destroy. Elbow grease and fresh Orings will usually fix the problem. Once completely disassembled, clean everything inside and out. When re assembling, lube everything well. Also, I concur with the replacement of the factory split ring with a new internal snap ring.That split ring is a total PIA.

[$L!mBo]

wow! thank you guys!

[Toestr]

The procarb video starts about halfway through.

https://youtu.be/BhmoI9fc0qs?feature=shared

[Chappy]

Keep buying $10 procarbs until your get one that works then keep the others for parts.

[ThinRizzie]

I’ll buy as many $10 procarbs as I can find lol

[ThinRizzie]

Ok -- I FINALLY got this thing back from the field tech and took it apart. They ended up keeping my replacement O-rings that I left for them, so I have to buy another set.

Looking at the actual valve body though... I'm wondering if the leak isn't caused by this "chip" in the valve seat. Looks like someone missed the valve when screwing in the air line. Do y'all think this would cause the leak, or should the valve seat o-ring be enough to stop this? I'm new to the valve-repair world so I have no idea.

[Chappy]

Although it looks like there is enough of the lip left to seal, I’d say this is likely your issue. What does the top of the reduction fitting look like?

[ThinRizzie]

Well that's a real bummer. The reduction fitting looks undamaged, and the threads are intact. I don't think I can post photos in a comment like this though... I'm pretty new to the forum

[ThinRizzie]

Here are some photos of the reduction fitting tip as well

[Chappy]

The reduction fitting end should be shaped like a nipple. I think that is your problem, that looks very flat. I’m guessing you could replace the reduction fitting and it should seal in that valve body.