TIPX Disassembly

[Cdn_Cuda]

To help out a fellow member, here is the disassembly of a TIPX. Please note my TIPX has several aftermarket parts, so parts will look a little different. The bolt and breach block are different and my TIPX has had its body modified. These differences should not affect this guide.

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Start by removing the barrel and co2 plug:
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Then loosen the clamshell screws. The middle screw in the top should be loosened but not removed. It holds the breach block. And we’ll get to that in a bit. Just leave about 1/4 of the screw in place.

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With the screws mostly removed, you want to separate the clamshells. It’s easiest to do this from the magwell. Do it controlled or pieces may fly everywhere. The bolt/spring breach block is under pressure.

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And you can then separate the pieces of the clamshell. Because I have a remote line adaptor and the screw threaded into the breach block still my internals larger stay put. They may not for you.

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Now that it’s apart we’ll look at the right side clam shell (bottom) first. There are a few little pieces here that are important to note.

First, there is the mag release. This little thing can be a royal pain when putting the marker back together. It sits on spring.
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Next there is the trigger. It sits on a rod and connects to a linkage that sits flush with the body. I will show that linkage in a moment.

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Then near the back of the magwell is a small plastic piece. Note the orientation for reassemble.

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And finally here is the trigger plate that sits flush along the side of the clamshell. As the trigger is pulled it slides forward.
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You may notice at one point I move some comportments to the other clamshell, but ignore that. What is listed above will stay in this bottom clamshell.

On the top of the marker there’s a small clear plastic piece that likes went MIA when you separated the clamshells. This is supposed to let you see if there’s a ball in your breach. It just sits in a slot at the top middle of the clamshell.

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And this just shows the proper orientation of the plastic piece at the back of the magwell for ease of reference:
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And here is how you want to have the bottom clamshell for reassembly, with the 12gram CO2 holder put back in. The piece is reversible and has mounting points it sits in, so easy to align.

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So now we can swap to the other clamshell which holds all the major components:
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Now, if you did not keep that middle screw in the frame, your pieces will have removed themselves from your marker. The spring that is between the bolt and breach block are under pressure. So if that centre screw was full removed pieces go everywhere when slipping the clamshell.

So hit you hold your thumb on the breach block and undo that last screw (okay it’s a bolt, but you know what I mean) and then pull out breach block slowly releasing the tension, or just let go and let the spring to its work.

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So the breach block has the ball detent. This is an aftermarket one. A stock one is not anodized and is not shaped for first strike rounds

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You may have noticed that at some point I removed the front block and did not mention it. It just pops out. This is the piece that says “TIPX”. You can orient it either way, as the writing is only on one side. I have my facing the left side of the marker because I shoot left handed. (Refer to the last photo on post 2)

This piece will put back in the marker once you have secured the breach block and it just presses in, no magic needed and it is not necessary to even use. You may be able to use different barrels if you remove the front block as it’s width prevents certain barrels from being used.

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So in the body near the front is the air intake for the 12g CO2. It has silver and has a white numb that faces the trigger. This numb falls off during my disassembly but it just slides back on without issue.

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So new can look at the face of this component and see the seal and where the 12gram pierce is. As you can see there’s a circlip here keeping everything where it needs to be. I will not be disassembling this piece, but if I recall correctly it’s pretty simple. The hardest part of a TPX is getting the clamshell back together.

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So once the pierce piece is removed you’ll notice it was attached to a hard air line. This hard air line is just pressure fit with a very small o-ring on both sides. Make sure to put a little grease on it.

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It connects to the rear or the marker:

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And you can see how it runs against the body:
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The smaller black cylinder at the rear of the marker is where you adjust the velocity. And it connects to the base of the bolt assembly. The remote line adaptor usually just threads out but I sealed mine to prevent leaks and don’t want to undo it.

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Now when reassembling the marker ensure that you don’t forget the annoying little window piece. Mine is actually broken, but it still will fit in the provided groove.

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Now you can slide the bolt back on the shaft and put the spring back on.

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To put the breach block back on you’re going to need to push the bolt back fairly hard and alone the recess on the breach block with the clamshell.

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At this point you will want to thread in the screw we used to hold the breach block in place. You will need to align the threaded hole properly:

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But with that screw in place it will hold the breach block, spring and bolt assembly together. Without it the spring tension will often pop the components out, usually while you’re trying to align the clamshell pieces and cause great frustration.

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So now that you have the pieces nice and secure, make sure your bottom clamshell looks like this:

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Ensure you have the plastic piece at the rear of the magwell in the right position or the clamshell will not close. Also be mindful of the mag release mechanism as it can be very frustrating.

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Now you should be ready to put the clamshell pieces back together. You need to be be careful with that mag release as it always gets caught on the upper clamshell and gets knocked out of place. I will place the clamshells gently together and use a pick push down on the mag release, freeing it from getting caught in the upper clamshell, and push the clamshell together and put the screw it all back together.

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[Daniel Tiger]

If I can add one thing for those new to tipx

be very careful with the actuator pin. I’ve bought multiple broken tipxs that only needed a new actuator pin. They bend relatively easy once out of the marker and it is damn near impossible to tell if they are bent until you reassemble. If bent, they cause a delayed recharge time

[Cdn_Cuda]

Good to know! Not something I have encountered.

[nak81783]

My friend’s had delayed recharge. I don’t recall the actuator pin being bent (could have been and what I did was a MacGyver fix), but I did have to slightly loosen the brass retainer piece to limit the o-ring squeeze on the pin.

Fortunately the brass retainer didn’t have to be threaded in tightly. The way the actuator housing mates with the main body of the valve will keep the brass retainer from falling out.