I know it kind of defeats the purpose, but anyone out there prefer a Revy or some other kind of electronic loader on their pump, even if you don't have an auto trigger?
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I use a revy on everything. -
Love my VL Tripod with the 140 rd shell. My rotor sees more time attached to a Drop10 than a marker
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I hate hoppers.💀 PK x Ragnastock 💀Comment
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Never used on the field yet but will do soon
Vert feed brass with Rotor and 6 pack
i might need to do widget first...
💀Team Ragnastock💀Comment
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I use my revvy for big games a lot. But my JoLo 50 rounder has taken its place for open class rec days. Revvy feels a bit big at times but it’s definitely a great Pump hopper.Comment
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Shake rattle and roll here.
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Not to stir the pot, but if anything needs an electronic hopper more it's mechanical guns (including pumps). IMHO, ever since those vision impulses came out to the masses 20 years ago, things changed. Eyes make life SO much better and damn near eliminate (if not totally eliminate) chops. Anything without a breech sensor needs all the help it can get! That being said, I'm a stock class guy so I don't really even have a hopper in my inventory...
-MikeComment
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Its not about shooting fast, its about not dry firing, especially with a pump. That shot needs to be there. I love my rev. But since I have been shooting stick feeds so much, the hopper feels huge so i built a 100 rd rev.Comment
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I put my dye rotor on everything. I don't think its overkill at all. Either that or a spring feed. They're not that expensive anymore and objectively work better. A little heavier, but compared to old-school markers it hardly makes a difference.
Gravity feed hoppers are not enjoyable to play with on any platform imo.Comment
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I think the majority of players don’t know how to set up a shake and shoot.
1. You can’t overfill it. Paint needs needs room to move around. Fill a 50 round hopper with a “50round pod” that actually holds more like 60-65 paintballs you are going to jam. With a 200 rounder wait until it’s almost completely empty to dump a 140 in it.
2. Last ball in the hopper stack needs to be half in the feedneck half out. This prevents jams when two balls sit against each other. It slows or stops a good feed. You may need to rase the hopper in the feedneck to do this.
3. Don't cut your feednecks longer the stack, the faster the feed. This is why cut winchesters feed like crap.
4. Hopper design shelf to take weight off the stack longer feedneck design, large steep feedneck ramp with dimples. It all helps.
PBDNA makes the best gravefed hoppers hands down I have tried them all. I have run my Jolo on my emek and it’s keeps up just as good as my revvy. It’s just 1/4th the capacity. You would be amazed how fast Bengie’s hoppers feed without battery’s.
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I keep a rotor in my gear bag, use it on anything open class.Comment
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Shoe Loader is my current go to for Open Class Pump then my 9 VDC Revy if I am going to use an electronic loader other then that my favorite gravity loader is my Whaler with "magic" fish lips.
If you do not know what a Shoe Loader is it is a 3D printed shell that works with Dye Rotor Guts and holds a little more the 50rds.
"When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it." - Theodore Roosevelt
Feedback Link - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...del-s-feedbackComment
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Depends what i shooting. My SL68II just feels too big with a revy on it. It’s best suited to a 50rnd hopper.
My Azodin KPII normally runs a 100 round hopper and my 26/3000 tank. But when I decide to bring it out to a big game it will run a 48/3000 and the revy.
I am tempted to get some of the Pico loader shells printed as I have a old Halo too with cracked shells That’s a perfect donor.AGD 68 Automag, AGD ULE 68 Automag, Azodin KPII, Tippmann SL68II, Umarex TR50.Comment
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