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Vee Twin Autococker
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Seat of the pants is exactly how I roll as well! 1-1/8th is good enough to get me started working up a rough idea. Thanks Doc!
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Me to that’s my favorite part seeing these things come together is so cool.
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Originally posted by SETHZILLA! View PostHey Doc, i sent you an email earlier in the week. Let me know of you don't see it and I'll resend.
Hey Doc, quick question. I want to make a custom barrel plug for mine. What is the distance between the centers of the barrels/bores?
And I say "that's a good question" because up 'til now, most of my "plans" for these things has been little more than cocktail-napkin sketches. The original one I made back in 2004, I actually cut out a cardboard cross-section to see where all the ports and holes need to go.
Even the last batch, which was anywhere from six to ten years ago, was admittedly kind of 'seat of the pants'.
Now, keep in mind that, if I'm allowed to toot my own horn a bit, I'm pretty good at that kind of thing. There's absolutely nothing wrong with those previous ones, it's just that with this batch, I'm taking the opportunity to nail down more of the dimensions and details, as well as finally working up a proper CAD model. (Probably in F360.)
So before I start drillin' an' borin', I'll be taking the time to more solidly nail down design and dimensions. There's some separation between the barrels- you don't want them touching, or possibly interfering if one or the other is a bit oversize. I'm pretty sure I used to use 1/8", making the center-to-center 1.125", but gimme a day or two to get that firmly established.
Doc.
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Hey Doc, quick question. I want to make a custom barrel plug for mine. What is the distance between the centers of the barrels/bores? I am thinking if I know the distance from center to center, I can use that to figure out my max dimensions.
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I love seeing the progress reports!
Hey Doc, i sent you an email earlier in the week. Let me know of you don't see it and I'll resend.
Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
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Finally got some new tooling in for this little project. Usually I'll tilt the head of the mill over to 45 degrees (typically "nodding" it forward, towards the operator) in order to mill the angled portions.
This time, I managed to find a 90-degree endmill, sort of like having a drill point. This sort of thing is getting more and more popular these days as they make great chamfering and countersinking mills. And a 1" diameter one gives a 45 degree flat that's just under 3/4" long. A touch marginal, but enough to do the angled flats on the blanks without having to tilt the head.
So with a little care on the roughed blanks, I was able to clean up both side faces easily and quickly, with a smooth, sharp transition between the two faces. (That is, no risk of an accidental undercut.)
Even though this was basically a "finishing cut", there was still a bit of meat to be removed.
That gets the valve tube section of the body down to spec, and half of the angled sides, nice and accurately.
Then, centered on the same valve-tube area, the same endmill easily made the separation at the top.
I was able to very accurately center that feature by measuring the thickness of the two sides, and once evened up, just plunge 'til I hit dimension.
And that was all I had time for, today.
I also got a better rounding cutter, so I should be able to get the rest of the profiling done this weekend. After that, it's time for a LOT of boring drilling... I mean, drilling & boring.
Doc.
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Unfortunately, my pockets aren't deep enough right now. More of a curiosity question.
Still enjoy following along though and drooling on my keyboard with each update lol
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Yes I will take one. I will email you again tonight square everything up thanks Doc.
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Just let me know when you are ready for payment on theses. I definitely want a pump one/ With a the Mech front block just in case. Not sure if you got my email.
But yes, they're underway- obviously - and a couple are still unclaimed. If you want to hit me with a down payment, one of those can sure be yours.
Doc.
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I can't speak for others on the "list", but I'm excited for any updates, even if they are not on mine. I love the build process so seeing any progress made is awesome!
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Just let me know when you are ready for payment on theses. I definitely want a pump one/ With a the Mech front block just in case. Not sure if you got my email.
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One quick note, as I'm trying to keep all my waterfowl predominantly colinear: A lot of this work applies to the whole run, obviously. Internal work, threading, barrel threading, etc. So I can do these "in a batch" and save time and setup hassles.
But, please keep in mind that almost all of these are custom orders, with a lot of variations. So there will come a time when I can no longer do them "all at once", and will have to sit down to focus on just one setup 'til that ones' done, then move on to the next. The fairest method for that will be by order of... well, orders. I'll take care of them in order you gents got on the list. PayPal incept dates, if you will.
Doc.
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I love the update posts here, Doc. Thank you for taking the time!
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Out of curiosity, would it be possible to do one out of brass or stainless? I'm sure the tooling / speeds & feeds would need to be adjusted.
Milled from solid brass, like the aluminum shown here? No problem! Figure the price will be roughly twice quoted- you're looking at $250 just in raw bar stock- and the resulting gun will be about six to eight pounds heavier than a normal VT.
More reasonably, I could put together a body out of soldered brass tubing, like a Palmer's gun- I've always wanted to make a brass 'Cocker body that way, and it'd only be a little more effort to make one in Vee-Twin style.
If you're interested in something like that, drop me an email and I can work you up a quote.
Stainless? Not impossible, but milled-from-solid, on my poor manual machines? You'd be looking at three to five times the cost. As above, one could be assembled from silver-soldered or brazed stainless tubing, but there'd still be a ton of work in it.
None of it's impossible, though.
Doc.
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Post #3 from Doc
Around $1000 for a build it yourself kit (you need to supply internal and commmon parts)
Around $2000 for a ready to run gun fully build with standard ano and parts
Sky is the limit for fancy ano and rare unicorn poop parts
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