instagram takipci satin al - instagram takipci satin al mobil odeme - takipci satin al

bahis siteleri - deneme bonusu - casino siteleri

bahis siteleri - kacak bahis - canli bahis

goldenbahis - makrobet - cepbahis

cratosslot - cratosslot giris - cratosslot

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

So what next...?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #46
    Alright Doc - a real recommendation here for repeatable and decent money.

    Sniper / Autococker pump kits that feel good like a CCM.

    Additionally

    Autococker / Sniper hinge trigger frames with a good auto trigger mechanism, that feel good like a CCM.

    You don't have to make a CCM kit for it to feel good. There are a lot of ways they can be improved.

    For example, it would be very cool to have the pump plate / mount actually integrate to the front of a pre 2k and a post 2k cocker in it's design. The pre 2k would be square and flat and match the profile of the original body, but maybe round the corners a bit so you don't get hurt from it.

    The trigger frame, well you know all about those and I know its a lot of work.

    You're looking at a situation where the pump kits people want are selling for over 100 dollars because CCM isn't making enough of them, and the trigger frames people want are selling for like 250 or 300 dollars because CCM isn't making enough of them.

    I know that you won't sell many trigger frames for 300 dollars, but I think you can sell both the kit and the trigger frame for the right price IF they look right. Really it needs to be a product that people would want to put on their 600+ dollar raw / empty autococker bodies. It can be different than a CCM kit but it can't be a compromise. In my book all the other kits and trigger frames are inferior in one way or another, with the empire hinge frame + inception pump kit being the closest thing to a CCM setup.

    BUT, a good pump kit with aesthetics better for a square cocker body would be really nice. HECK - give it the same rod spacing and diameter so it can accept CCM pump handles if you want.

    Comment


    • Chuck E Ducky

      Chuck E Ducky

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Have you tried the Mozak he is making real nice frames every bit as nice as CCM with more options in profile. 90% of CCM feel is the the springs.

    • zinger565

      zinger565

      commented
      Editing a comment
      I thought Mozak was only making slider frames?

      I have one on my Sanchez pump, an 86 thin, and it's super nice. So comfy.

    • Cunha
      Cunha commented
      Editing a comment
      The mozak frames are great but they aren’t pump frames. He is more than capable of making a good pump frame and AT assembly it would be nice if -anyone- would besides ccm

    #47
    Replica/homage Eclipse Twister LPR caps? Freak tips that are loudeners with a look ala the old Air America Intimidator?
    Velcor will save us...

    Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
    Legacy MCB Feedback (Wayback Machine)

    Comment


    • scottieb

      scottieb

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Two very good ideas here.

    #48
    I for one always see these really cool anodized aluminum side-folding T stocks on markers, but they seem to be long out of production (I believe JCS made a version, CCI may have had their own too). That would be really cool!

    Also, I’ve always thought it would be amazing to have a universal VSC kit for backbottle markers. It could mount to a bottom line on a standard .45 grip (with maybe an adapter for M16 or other style grips) and go around the grip frame like a saber guard (think like Halo 1 pistol), and have a vertical ASA mounted to the top of it. Then you just connect an external air line from that to a plug on the backbottle. Could make all those old Nelsons VSC without having to drill into them.

    Just my thoughts

    Comment


      #49
      AGD Sydarm constant air adapters!
      -I seem to recall that one was going to be a bit tricky. I'll need to dig my Sydarm out and have another look.

      Sniper / Autococker pump kits that feel good like a CCM.
      -I was given to understand that several places were making pump kits. CCM, Inception, etc. I was mainly looking for things that other companies, for whatever reason, weren't bothering with. (Who else was going to make Mega-Z seals? )

      Autococker / Sniper hinge trigger frames with a good auto trigger mechanism, that feel good like a CCM.
      -This one needs to be given to Mozak. He's already most of the way there, and my plates are already pretty full.

      Replica/homage Eclipse Twister LPR caps?
      -This one's doable, I think. It's been a long time since I had an actual Twister in the shop, but I have a ton of Sledges on hand. Might take a minute to reverse-engineer...

      Freak tips that are loudeners with a look ala the old Air America Intimidator?
      -That one I can't see a proper production run of, but maybe I can do a preorder.

      I for one always see these really cool anodized aluminum side-folding T stocks on markers,
      -Any folding stock I've tried, tends to wobble. Maybe not when new, but eventually, after it's had some use and wear. A proper stock with a good, reliable and tight lock might start getting expensive.

      Also, I’ve always thought it would be amazing to have a universal VSC kit for backbottle markers.
      -That's an interesting idea. I might have to sketch a trial or two on that one.

      Doc.
      Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
      The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
      Paintball in the Movies!

      Comment


        #50
        Originally posted by DocsMachine View Post
        -This one's doable, I think. It's been a long time since I had an actual Twister in the shop, but I have a ton of Sledges on hand. Might take a minute to reverse-engineer...
        Doc.
        Just for a touch of reference, I snagged a screencap from this vid Tim Firpo posted on rebuilding an LPR with a Twister cap.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	EclipseTwisterCap1.png
Views:	285
Size:	84.2 KB
ID:	344186

        How to disassemble and rebuild a WGP Sledgehammer LPR with the Belsales twister LPR cap installed. This is the style used on some early Evo Autocockers.


        Velcor will save us...

        Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
        Legacy MCB Feedback (Wayback Machine)

        Comment


        • maggot
          maggot commented
          Editing a comment
          This would be a real winner, IMO. Semi-matte black ano that matches the original LPRs. I'd buy a few.

        • Cunha
          Cunha commented
          Editing a comment
          Same thing as the akalmp adjustable reg cap for the Wgp stock reg. It would mean you could run a stock 2k cocker with all stock parts with those two minor upgrades and have all the conveniences of easy to adjust regs.

        #51
        +1 for the EM1 VA adapter. Always wanted to try that out.

        If you are interested in really seeing what your tools can do, a X7 Phenom firing Pin is something to try. Luckily I've got 2 so I should be ok for a while... but this is really the main failure obstacle to the phenoms.
        https://www.tippmannparts.com/TA3003...-p/gp13050.htm

        Comment


        • Brokeass_baller

          Brokeass_baller

          commented
          Editing a comment
          Is that a weak point in the Phenoms? I'm new to them.

        #52
        Just for a touch of reference, I snagged a screencap from this vid Tim Firpo posted on rebuilding an LPR with a Twister cap.
        -Oh, right. Man, it's been a while since I had one of those in the shop... Thanks for the pic, should be easy enough- though I wouldn't be able to guarantee it'd be parts-compatible with existing ones... though we also don't necessarily need it to be.

        +1 for the EM1 VA adapter. Always wanted to try that out.
        -Then loan me an EM-1. I've never had one of those in the shop.

        [An] X7 Phenom firing Pin is something to try
        -Oh? Do those break or fail somehow? Local field had a couple of Phenoms- I have one in a box around here somewhere- but I don't recall any issues with them. Other than maybe an unreliable Cyclone feeder.

        Looking... yeah, that thing's tiny. But my machine should be able to turn it. Might have to try a test piece or two.

        Stainless Cocking Knobs for Tippmann 68-Carbines / Pro-Carbines
        -Easy peasy on that one.

        Doc.
        Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
        The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
        Paintball in the Movies!

        Comment


          #53
          Ooo another fun one. Shoebox Shocker VASA

          Edit: If it happend to have a hard line kit thats a bonus (I just recalled you've been down this road before )
          Velcor will save us...

          Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
          Legacy MCB Feedback (Wayback Machine)

          Comment


            #54
            What idiot designed a paintball gun around this?!?



            It's not captive, so it can come right out, and the thin part is 0.032" ! I'm assuming the two main problems are A, it gets lost, since it's roughly the size of an eyelash, and B, it gets bent, which, as it turns out, this one is, since it has all the structural integrity of damp twine.

            Okay... It's nonmagnetic, so presumably stainless, and probably 303. The 'fat' part is 3mm, and I happen to have some 3mm 303 on hand. What I don't know is if I have a tool that can cut that- by which I mean, details that fine. My usual inserts for the turning center have a nose radius of about 30 thou.

            So, before I buy fifty bucks in inserts just to see if I can even turn one of these bloody things, IS there any actual market for these? I see the originals sold for about $3, but chances are I'd lose money at twice that. Again, none of this is anything I'll get rich off of, but I'd at least like to make my money back.

            Doc.
            Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
            The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
            Paintball in the Movies!

            Comment


            • flyweightnate

              flyweightnate

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Should probably be 17-4 H900 if it wants to survive, too.

            • Meleager7

              Meleager7

              commented
              Editing a comment
              What if you deviated from the original spec, and made one a bit thicker? Would the phenom flex valve still fire?

              If you remember the original AGD on off pin was turned down to very thin for their ULE trigger, which makes for a light trigger pull.

              So I wonder if you did the reverse approach on the Phenom on off pin, where a more robust reliable part replaces the weaker stock part , but at the expense of a heavier trigger pull?

            #55
            Not good so far. I tried to make a test piece in the manual lathe, just to see how it cut, and/or deflected. And the answers are, poorly, and a lot.



            (Exacto for scale.)

            To put my Doc-hat on for a moment, the first part of the problem is that the material and the part are so small, I can't get up to a suitable surface speed. On this lathe, it maxes out at about 1500-1600 RPM, and for something this tiny, that's just far too slow.

            Now, the CNC lathe maxes out at 4K RPM, which is a lot better.

            The other issue is the cutter- if it's not literally razor sharp, AND carefully fed, the material deflects a lot.

            I may go ahead and maybe try a quick test in the CNC, and see how that goes, but I'm not gonna start counting my chickens just yet.

            Doc.
            Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
            The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
            Paintball in the Movies!

            Comment


            #56
            The thinness of the pin is, my guess, because they chose to use a very small air channel and o-rings to reduce the amount of air waste of firing the valve assembly. There shouldn't be any air escaping through the pin with the o-rings but maybe a large diameter setup didn't play well with the pressurized valve. Makes the trigger easier to pull too.

            Glad you have a challenge! There are a lot of Phenoms probably being scrapped because of this pin failing, which isn't common, but happens eventually. Honestly if you did get a reliable built I'd by one for $30 if needed.

            This pin and I think the regulator Seat contribute to the most failures. Everything else is really just an o-ring, and while there are some other tiny bits those are not under deforming stresses, like the pin. The E-boards are also not holding up after all this time, but not much we can do about that.

            Comment


              #57
              Should probably be 17-4 H900 if it wants to survive, too.
              -That's kind of what I was thinking, if I could job this out to a 'Swiss' turning shop. Trying to do that on my machines would just make this already-tricky job even worse.

              What if you deviated from the original spec, and made one a bit thicker? Would the phenom flex valve still fire?
              -Was thinking that, too- the sample in the pic above is .045", which is probably as fat as I can make it without drastically restricting airflow. The airflow through the pin is just that to move the firing spool, not to refill the dump chamber or anything. The next step is .060, so it'd probably still work at .050", but that might be too much of a restriction at higher ROF.

              So I wonder if you did the reverse approach on the Phenom on off pin, where a more robust reliable part replaces the weaker stock part , but at the expense of a heavier trigger pull?
              -That would require either custom O-rings, or machining out the valve. And, doubling the area of the pin would double the force on it- for a mechanical trigger, probably not unworkable, but might start getting too much for the solenoid. And "doubling the area" would only take the .060" part up to about .084".

              On the other hand, this operates in much the same way as an Automag on-off, which also has operating pressure pushing on the pin. And that pin is .125", or over twice the diameter...

              Doc.
              Last edited by DocsMachine; 12-07-2022, 06:02 PM.
              Doc's Machine & Airsmith Services: Creating the Strange and Wonderful since 1998!
              The Whiteboard: Daily, occasionally paintball-related webcomic mayhem!
              Paintball in the Movies!

              Comment


                #58
                One other idea—a Hawaiian-style adapter for Emeks. Always bugged the hell out of me that there’s no easy way to flip the ASA on them, and I think a part could be machined to securely hold it in the forward position pretty easily. In theory it would just have to connect from the bolt receivers in the bottom of the grip, to a threaded portion that would affix to the now free-floating bolt receivers on the forward-facing ASA. For how light and compact Emeks are, and for how many people rock small tanks on them, it’s always been annoying to me that there is no available adapter to make that a possibility.

                Comment


                  #59
                  Replacement power tubes for bore drop and breech drop in #4 & #6.
                  Probably not a big market there, but we used to swap them out seasonally before adjustable regs. And there are some that collectors are restoring that could use a source.

                  Comment


                    #60
                    How about some Sheridan Autococker frame adapter plates. There’s 3d printed one but brass or aluminum would be way better. I haven’t had good luck with any of the 3d printed ones I’ve tried.

                    Comment


                    • grendal50
                      grendal50 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Did I print you one? I can print you one out of Petg if you'd like. I don't know how "Western Mass" you are, but I'll be in Wales Ma. on Saturday
                  Working...
                  X