Several autococker and loader questions

[nighthunter]

I feel like I'm making a ton of posts on here so I'll try to condense a few requests into one.

I got a a WGP trilogy pro and love it so much I want another one (or another cocker I can find for the cheap) to keep as a spare and/or have chopped up and customized to death. Talk me out of it.

Nearly all of my loaders/hoppers have some problem or other with them. The one that does work perfectly is my Revvy, which is a great backup but I want something a tad faster for sustained shooting.
Should I stock up on parts to rebuild/repair my Vlocity (which I really liked) or just purchase a new loader? My only concern with the Vlocity is just that the plastic has always felt.... "crunchy" so even if I replaced the cracked and split parts I suspect they'll just break down again over time. I really like the look of the Spire IR2, but will it fit inside of an autococker feedneck without alteration? Call me weird but I like the concept of the loader using an eye system over sound activation.

Observation: I ran my sniper for quite a few rounds using an All American barrel, which is a massive overbore for the GI paint we were using. Stuck a strip of electrician's tape into the breech end of the barrel and the rollouts stopped. No notable difference in velocity or accuracy. Anyone else do this? I know some people use the 3d printed wedgits or do some trick with an o-ring, but this seems so simple to me.

Last but not least: is there a currently available paintball (or regular gun) case that will comfortably (and securely) hold one or more markers with the barrel still attached? It's a pet peeve of mine that most of the paintball branded gun cases I've seen force you to remove the barrel in order to get everything zipped up. At the very least, is there a case that's well-recommended for autocockers and pumps?

[XEMON]

I got a a WGP trilogy pro and love it so much I want another one to keep as a spare and/or have chopped up and customized to death. Talk me out of it.

No way! We dont do that here ... 😅

The one that does work perfectly is my Revvy

Love them, had a few other loader, but always came back to tehm ... cant hep there, sorry

Last but not least: is there a currently available paintball (or regular gun) case that will comfortably (and securely) hold one or more markers with the barrel still attached?

I like the GXG, cheap and simple.
It fit 2 Sheridans inside or a full gun with some spares.
For the long rifle, i have some longer cases that work well, gun case are option and come on sale from time to time ...

[Trbo323]

I got a a WGP trilogy pro and love it so much I want another one (or another cocker I can find for the cheap) to keep as a spare and/or have chopped up and customized to death.

LOLOLOLOLOL. cheap, that's a good one

Talk me out of it.

see above

Nearly all of my loaders/hoppers have some problem or other with them. The one that does work perfectly is my Revvy, which is a great backup but I want something a tad faster for sustained shooting.
Should I stock up on parts to rebuild/repair my Vlocity (which I really liked) or just purchase a new loader? My only concern with the Vlocity is just that the plastic has always felt.... "crunchy" so even if I replaced the cracked and split parts I suspect they'll just break down again over time. I really like the look of the Spire IR2, but will it fit inside of an autococker feedneck without alteration? Call me weird but I like the concept of the loader using an eye system over sound activation.

You're weird

Not really, eyes vs ears each have their ups and downs

In my opinion the ir and ir2 are some or the best value hoppers out there. Someone correct me if this is wrong but aren't the ir2 shells the same as the spire 1 and 260 shells? If that's true what's the problem with shaving the hopper neck? Worst case you can get a new shell.

Although really I would be putting a clamping feedneck on the cocker over shaving the hopper.

Observation: I ran my sniper for quite a few rounds using an All American barrel, which is a massive overbore for the GI paint we were using. Stuck a strip of electrician's tape into the breech end of the barrel and the rollouts stopped. No notable difference in velocity or accuracy. Anyone else do this? I know some people use the 3d printed wedgits or do some trick with an o-ring, but this seems so simple to me.

Is there a problem that needs solving here? Looks like you found a good solution already

Last but not least: is there a currently available paintball (or regular gun) case that will comfortably (and securely) hold one or more markers with the barrel still attached? It's a pet peeve of mine that most of the paintball branded gun cases I've seen force you to remove the barrel in order to get everything zipped up. At the very least, is there a case that's well-recommended for autocockers and pumps?

With barrel, not that I'm aware of currently made.

Without, exalt makes a decent one sized for cockers

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[Cdn_Cuda]

Those Exalt XL marker cases are great. You need to take the barrel off, but fit cockers nicely and have a bunch of room for barrels in a separate compartment.

[superman]

Personally i would get a dye ltr. virtually industructable. If it jams you pull the fin and flip the hopper. Feeds faster than other current hoppers.

Someone will say that doesn't matter and it keeps up with how fast they shoot. blah blah. If you shoot fast you want constant tension on the ball stack because the chop will happen from when the ball moves to when the 2nd ball is shot not during the string. ask me how i know. I have tons of shooting videos on youtube with mech markers and i quit using revys and spires for pretty much all of them.

I use the tap in the barrel when i use large bore barrels on pumps or if the paint is pretty irregular. tends to shoot better with out having to find the perfect insert to use.

[Trbo323]

Someone will say that doesn't matter and it keeps up with how fast they shoot. blah blah. If you shoot fast you want constant tension on the ball stack because the chop will happen from when the ball moves to when the 2nd ball is shot not during the string. ask me how i know. I have tons of shooting videos on youtube with mech markers and i quit using revys and spires for pretty much all of them.

I .

This is true. I have a rotor that I run on my automag as the reaction time of the spire 3 I have is not fast enough to go from ball 1 to ball 2 fast enough. It causes the lvl 10 to kick in and chuffs which then defeats the whole reason of owning an RT capable mag.

That said, the reasons the rotor is not my primary is I really like the capacity of the spire 3/4/5 and when sitting for a while that tension on the ball stack in the rotor can start to dimple all the paint in the raceway.

The rotor is very durable though. I once took a fall that shattered 3 or 4 balls in the rotor. I had no idea until the next game when it was happily attempting to feed soup into my marker

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[superman]

I turn the tension down in my rotors and often times if it is a long time between games will turn the hopper off.

[nighthunter]

I do actually own an OG rotor. Is that functionally the same as an LTR? Also I've heard that Rotors have a tendency to shove balls past the detents in cockers and snipers. How real is that and can that be adjusted away?

[superman]

Internally they are the same. Turn the tension out on the back side of the motor box. Pull it out and look at where the button is. Pretty sure an 1/8” Allen key fits.

I don’t have any issues with them doing so.

[MrBarraclough]

Yes, the OG Rotor and the LTR are functionally the same. The LTR simply lacks windows in the upper half of the shell. Otherwise, they even use the same shells. All parts are interchangable.

Rotor tension can be adjusted via the set screw on the back of the motor box. You have to do some disassembly to access it, but a Rotor can be stripped down without tools in 30 seconds. Screw in to increase tension, out to decrease.

[glaman5266]

I would suggest setting the tension adjustment screw to be flush with the outside edge/board housing. That's a good starting point, anyway.

[Twisted G]

I use electrical tape in the barrels for all my pumps. It just works. .

[Trbo323]

I do actually own an OG rotor. Is that functionally the same as an LTR? Also I've heard that Rotors have a tendency to shove balls past the detents in cockers and snipers. How real is that and can that be adjusted away?

In essence the ltr is somewhere around a gen 2 rotor. Has the shark fin and a few of the smaller updates that were not original release. I'd just run that.

The tension can be adjusted, pull out the gearbox on the rotor and on the back there is a silver Allen screw, that's the tension adjustment.

Honestly I'd run the rotor and if you start having problems then maybe consider a new hopper but no use buying one now if you already have one that may work just fine

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[Twisted G]

Eggy 2. Nothing looks more wild than an eggy on a cocker. XD

[nighthunter]

Used to have one. It may be laying around somewhere. Who knows, it might even work lol.

[OpusX]

Cockers and old Revys are like Vanilla Ice Cream and Apple Pie.

[MrBarraclough]

Rather than shaving/sanding down your hoppers, it is easier to just sand the inside diameter of a Trilogy feedneck. Use a Dremel with a high grit sanding drum and make lots of passes using light pressure, to avoid bearing down in one spot and gouging it or getting it out of round. You can even do more passes closer to the top so that the interior of the feedneck has an ever so slight taper. Just stop frequently to test fit until you can jam a hopper in there without risking it cracking.

[Psycho91]

What about loaders with the filament tab like the speed, how do the work on cockers and markers without eyes

[nighthunter]

The what loader with the what tab? Are you talking about the Halo? I know very little about those hoppers because I was running a Vlocity at the time when all the cool kids had Halos lol.

[Psycho91]

The hk speed loader, tippman also had a loader called the sl something or other that was pretty decent for the price just looked funny, these loaders have a filament tab in the feed neck that when paint passes by it or flicks it it operates the loader, if you know what a floppy disk is it made from he same plastic type stuff that was in those

[glaman5266]

That Tippmann electronic loader, the HK Speed and HK Sonic all have that same tab-style sensor. That was taken from the old Ricochet (AK, Apache, etc.) loader design from the early 2000s.

I use a HK Sonic & have a Speed on the shelf. Both are great loaders, but have their drawbacks.

[Psycho91]

Another loader I liked that people didn't like was the torque loader, great profile and was light, batteries would last forever it seemed like, only problem is that it constantly ran, well take and flip every other magnet in the drive cone and it becomes a force fed loader, I've been eyeing 2 sitting in the bst

[Psycho91]

I also forgot to mention that the first marker I tried a torque on was an SF trilogy when I knew little to nothing about cockers, kept up like a champ and didn't skip a beat all day

[Twisted G]

Kingman fasta? Viewloader eye force? Anyone still use those?

Tippmann sl200 seem to work well from what I've seen. Saw more people with them than the other two hoppers. They called that flappy plastic thing in the feedneck a bend sensor.

My first hopper was the original valken vmax. Worked great, but was a dual 9v battery hog just like the viewloader velocity. They had a little spinny wheel with little fingers in the feedneck that the balls would hit and spin. Thus making the motor turn. The vmax + and 2 had a regular eye in it. Not sure what else changed since I never had either. Rarely saw people run them either. .

[Psycho91]

Tried a vmax probably the worst hopper I ever owned, worked great when it did work though, the tippmann sl200 is the one I couldn't remember they worked great for $40

[Toestr]

The VMax2 is basically the same as the original but in more colours. The VMax+ works well. It's what the eggy should have been. Many of the local MCB crew use the VMax+. Even Bud Orr uses one so you know it must be good.