In another thread, I was asked about how I modify my JT bottoms and hard ears, along with eflex frames to make all the parts compatible.
JT bottoms were advertised as being interchangeable with eflex frames, BUT the holes in the eflex frames, particularly for the nose pegs, are slightly too large for the mounting pegs on JT bottoms. This results in a build which seems safe but when worn, the mask bends slightly and the pegs have a tendency to pop out. This usually happend to myself and others mid game and is hard to notice until you go to lift your mask afterwards. obviously, this is incredibly dangerous and usually results in the player having to leave the field to fix their mask, only for it to continue happening. I was able to pull the bottoms from the frames just by adjusting them, lightly tugging them downwards for a better fit. I remedy this by snipping the heads of the pegs off (cue terrified screams from the proflex communtiy), and drilling into the stubs to insert small machine screws. the rounded heads are the perfect size to remove when needed and firmly secure the bottoms to the frames.
Eflex masks also use a different ear and strap system from the proflex. I love the quick lens change feature, makes for very easy cleaning. My modification affects this slightly. Holes are drilled and shaped with snips/xacto knife for the lens mounting tabs very carefully, making sure to not remove too much material in any direction. The ears clip into the tabs from the inside with a very positive click. To remove, gently peel from the front rearwards. This affects the "quickness" of changing lenses, but not significantly. I can still change lenses in about 5 seconds not really trying. When done right, the connections between frames, ears and bottoms are all very tight and secure. I have been wearing this combo for YEARS with ZERO safety issues!
In order to use JT style goggle straps, I cut slots in the sides of the frames similar to proflex frames. There is also a small bit of shaving i like to do to the tops and bottoms of the rearward edges of the eflex frames for a more 'rounded' shape. But that isnt necessary and is only for my personal preference.
These are some green shield bottoms I dyed brown earlier, then snipped the pegs and threw those screws into. i tried doing some olive ears too but they take the dye totally different so Ive got some brown IZE ears in the mail.
Eflex parts are not nearly as in demand as the JT stuff, so pieces are plentiful and inexpensive. I regularly come across parts lots with multiple brand new lenses and barely used foam for super cheap, a few times free. Being able to use JT parts to make, what is imho a better mask than either of the donor systems has worked perfectly for me and the process is not very complicated. All parts can be reverted back to use on their original masks, with only the extra slots on the eflex frames being visable once assembled. I realize this isnt everybodys cup of tea aesthetics-wise and people will say "its not safe" and im a monster for ruining "rare parts" but thats just how i roll!
A note on safety:
I dont encourage anyone to make any unsafe modifications and I take no responsibility for folks ruining parts trying to copy these moves. This is just an explanation of my technique and in no way a "one way suits all" guide. Follow this fool(me)
AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
.......happy cuttin'!........
JT bottoms were advertised as being interchangeable with eflex frames, BUT the holes in the eflex frames, particularly for the nose pegs, are slightly too large for the mounting pegs on JT bottoms. This results in a build which seems safe but when worn, the mask bends slightly and the pegs have a tendency to pop out. This usually happend to myself and others mid game and is hard to notice until you go to lift your mask afterwards. obviously, this is incredibly dangerous and usually results in the player having to leave the field to fix their mask, only for it to continue happening. I was able to pull the bottoms from the frames just by adjusting them, lightly tugging them downwards for a better fit. I remedy this by snipping the heads of the pegs off (cue terrified screams from the proflex communtiy), and drilling into the stubs to insert small machine screws. the rounded heads are the perfect size to remove when needed and firmly secure the bottoms to the frames.
Eflex masks also use a different ear and strap system from the proflex. I love the quick lens change feature, makes for very easy cleaning. My modification affects this slightly. Holes are drilled and shaped with snips/xacto knife for the lens mounting tabs very carefully, making sure to not remove too much material in any direction. The ears clip into the tabs from the inside with a very positive click. To remove, gently peel from the front rearwards. This affects the "quickness" of changing lenses, but not significantly. I can still change lenses in about 5 seconds not really trying. When done right, the connections between frames, ears and bottoms are all very tight and secure. I have been wearing this combo for YEARS with ZERO safety issues!
In order to use JT style goggle straps, I cut slots in the sides of the frames similar to proflex frames. There is also a small bit of shaving i like to do to the tops and bottoms of the rearward edges of the eflex frames for a more 'rounded' shape. But that isnt necessary and is only for my personal preference.
These are some green shield bottoms I dyed brown earlier, then snipped the pegs and threw those screws into. i tried doing some olive ears too but they take the dye totally different so Ive got some brown IZE ears in the mail.
Eflex parts are not nearly as in demand as the JT stuff, so pieces are plentiful and inexpensive. I regularly come across parts lots with multiple brand new lenses and barely used foam for super cheap, a few times free. Being able to use JT parts to make, what is imho a better mask than either of the donor systems has worked perfectly for me and the process is not very complicated. All parts can be reverted back to use on their original masks, with only the extra slots on the eflex frames being visable once assembled. I realize this isnt everybodys cup of tea aesthetics-wise and people will say "its not safe" and im a monster for ruining "rare parts" but thats just how i roll!
A note on safety:
I dont encourage anyone to make any unsafe modifications and I take no responsibility for folks ruining parts trying to copy these moves. This is just an explanation of my technique and in no way a "one way suits all" guide. Follow this fool(me)
AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
.......happy cuttin'!........
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